time for me to ask a stupid question. muted when pulled up or pushed down? if pushed down mutes, dead battery, since that's active mode. if pulled up mutes, then yes, wiring problem.
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yeah, so if it's muted when down, AND you've tested that battery, i'm guessing it's something really simple like the battery clip itself is bad, unless you can see a loose or disconnected wire somewhere. maybe with the back off the bass, in active mode (down), plugged into an amp and bass volume all the way up, and the amp volume VERY LOW, wiggle it around, press on it. if the sound cuts in/out, there you are. if that doesn't do anything, and, you can't find anything obviously loose or disconnected, it's time to get a shop on it unless you're really into electronics and can dig deeper on your own.
yeah, pulled up is passive/bypass.
Arrgh!
Update:
A two-pronged clip had come loose. Problem solved. Thank you @Vic very much.
Update:
A two-pronged clip had come loose. Problem solved. Thank you @Vic very much.
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On the Sadowsky fringes….
Just wanted to mention that I find myself for various odd, disconnected reasons rocking a P Bass for one of my gigs (long story, TL;DW); but, the interesting takeaway is that I’m having a blast getting a TON of fantastic tones going with round wounds through an outboard Sadowsky preamp. I always thought the P would be not strongly improved. Wrong. The Sadowsky preamp really brings the fooonk with the P as well as J types. Amazing preamp.
Said it a bazillion times, but the Sadowsky P is the P I'd been searching for. Of course a big part of the magic is the onboard pre.
I'm sure I don't have to tell you about the "cut VTC and boost treble" trick.
Hello, need your advice …
My Singlecut 5 Modern (ash/maple) is strung with the Blue Label SS.
I regard the Blue Sads a bit stiff and tone wise the are not 100% to my liking (I play Bluesrock, some Jazz and Funk)
Has someone of you used the DR Fat Beams? What was your experience?
Or do you have other suggestions?
My Singlecut 5 Modern (ash/maple) is strung with the Blue Label SS.
I regard the Blue Sads a bit stiff and tone wise the are not 100% to my liking (I play Bluesrock, some Jazz and Funk)
Has someone of you used the DR Fat Beams? What was your experience?
Or do you have other suggestions?
Joeykun
pronounced ジョーイくん
- Jun 22, 2007
- 4,200
- 16,150
- Disclosures
- Endorsing: LAKLAND SADOWSKY GENZLER DARKGLASS NORDSTRAND TEMPLEBOARD KIRLIN DRSTRINGS ACCESS
DR Fat Beams have a higher tension than Blue Labels. A little less bright as well. I like the DR Hi-Beams on my 5ers!
I share your experience with the Blue Label SS.
I use DR HI-BEAMS on all my basses, I absolutely love these strings. Slightly lower tension and very balanced sound with crisp highs that lasts for quite a long time.
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Thank you,
The Hi Beams are rounds, like the Fat Beams - I always thought that hexcore strings like the Sad SS had a higher tension ?
If you compare HB and FB - how would you describe the similarities and where do they differ?
Another question is the action - some say that with rounds a low action is not possible because they oszillate more?
The Hi Beams are rounds, like the Fat Beams - I always thought that hexcore strings like the Sad SS had a higher tension ?
If you compare HB and FB - how would you describe the similarities and where do they differ?
Another question is the action - some say that with rounds a low action is not possible because they oszillate more?
tension is unrelated to what kind of string.
lower tension strings oscillate more than higher tension ones, but whether that means you can't achieve a low action depends more on your preference for action height and flatness of your fretboard (than it does the tension on the strings).
lower tension strings oscillate more than higher tension ones, but whether that means you can't achieve a low action depends more on your preference for action height and flatness of your fretboard (than it does the tension on the strings).
I was always under the impression that, everything else being equal, hex core strings have higher tension than round core strings.
DR even names their strings specifically for this reason - High Beams are round core with lower tension, so they typically need a slightly higher action if you’re looking for zero fret noise/string buzz because you can dig in a lot more (my personal favorite).
Low Riders are the opposite - hex core, more tension, harder to dig in, less buzz and lower action achievable, etc.
This isn’t the case?
If we're saying tension in terms of how stiff or slinky the string feels to the finger, and how little or much it moves after plucking, then this has also been my experience. the lo-riders feel stiffer to me, and the beams, regardless of material, feel slinkier to me. that is why DR named their hex core strings lo-riders... because since they're not quite as "flexible" as the beams, you can set your action lower with less fret buzz/sizzle. there is likely also a difference in slink/stiff between SS and nickel i'm sure, but i think the diff between round and hex cores is much greater.
i also feel round cores last longer and sound better, but you have to be a lot more careful about how you install them.
imho
Lovin' the round-core love! (DR Pure Blues for me...)
it's a rare thing, but when I need to put rounds on a bass, it's been the DR Pure Blues that I've liked best.
How about a few progress pics of my bonnie pink Will Lee 4? Pepto pink back side.
DR fat beams are my favorite strings. But on my Sadowsky’s I use sadowsky blue label steel strings. I need the extra tension on the B strings that the blue label give me. The fat beams feel too loose on my Sadowsky 5 strings. On my four string vintage fenders DR’s are perfect.
Maybe try the blue or black label nickel strings in 40 - 125 thicknesses? Less zingy, more mid presence and easier on the fingers than the standard 45 - 130 set.
As another suggestion: The Moderns (and so should the single cuts with soaps) play realy nicely with flats e.g. TI jazz flats.
