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- Apr 3, 2003
- 35,515
- 19,944
- Disclosures
- Editor-in-Chief, Bass Gear Magazine
I spoke with Roger about this back in 2009 or so when I did the Will Lee signature review, and that is absolutely why he made the headstocks thicker (which I believe started with the Will Lee Sig).
I'm now wondering: does "thicker" in this case mean even thicker than the usual Sadowsky headstock, which was already thicker than the usual Fender headstock?
Context: I got my first Sadowsky, a P5, in 2005. Years later I commissioned a 5-string from a local luthier: a '58-style P-bass but with five strings. This bass would be built from scratch, and I wanted neck specs similar to the Sadowsky, so he asked me to bring it to him. He noticed that the headstock was thicker than Fender standard. I had been unaware of this until then. (And yes, he did shape my neck with that same headstock thickness).
Anyway: I'll assume that Baxter's 2011 NYC Modern has the same headstock thickness as my 2005 NYC P5, and his new one thicker still.
I have a 2004 NYC and I'm pretty sure my two newer NYC customs are both thicker than my 2004. FWIW.
Vic is correct. Roger did talk about it years ago. It was to minimize dead spots.
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Every bass has a certain degree of neck dive. Except the headless ones... It's only when it's really obvious that it even matters.
i respectfully disagree. it depends on the weight of the body, which can vary WILDLY based on both the wood selection and also the electronics... especially if the pickups are bigger like soaps or Roger's SJ/SP pickups.
the bottom line is, if the center of gravity is at or behind the top strap button, there will be no neck dive. If it's between the top strap button and the nut, there's neck dive.
Neck dive is always an issue for me. My main bass is a Fodera Emperor, which naturally hangs about 15 degrees above horizontal, not too bad. But I really want it to hang at around 45 degrees. I've never had an instrument that wants to stay at that angle. I actually talked with Roger Sadowsky about this and his response was basically "get a stickier strap/shirt and deal with it".
Have any of you tried a strap button extension rod that extends the top strap button further down the neck (toward the lower frets)? I don't know if that would stress the wood where the rod attaches.
Have any of you tried a strap button extension rod that extends the top strap button further down the neck (toward the lower frets)? I don't know if that would stress the wood where the rod attaches.
Some people here on TB have used them, but IMO they look terrible. Some put weights on the heel of the bass, but my old back likes light basses.
I only have one of my 6 basses that neck dives at all, and the stickier strap works Ok for me.
I have straps that stick to my shirt, but the the shirt slides on my skin so the strap pulls my shirt forward.
Yeah, they are not beautiful, and the Fodera is not a featherweight.
When you say most of your basses have no neck dive, does that mean you could put your bass up at a 45 (or even higher) degree angle and play a whole set without it wanting to pull down to a lower angle (even without a sticky strap)?
I have a slightly under 10 pound Alembic SSB Series I, which defines neck dive. I use a 3 1/2” suede backed strap; and that bass stays put in playing position. Does it pull a little bit on my fancy pants shirt? Maybe a little; but, not so as to distract from performance.
I have an under 8 pound NYC. It is chambered. It pulls on my fancy pants performance shirt even less. Much less. Not an issue.
Suede back straps are your friend. As Roger has previously advised multiple times.
(Apologies @smeet ; NOT intended as a dig at you)
I have an under 8 pound NYC. It is chambered. It pulls on my fancy pants performance shirt even less. Much less. Not an issue.
Suede back straps are your friend. As Roger has previously advised multiple times.
(Apologies @smeet ; NOT intended as a dig at you)
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Here’s another Q about the diffs between ML and ME models.
I’ve been considering the M/J 5 instruments for some time; both because they have my preferred 5 string neck profile, and the tonal options seem interesting.
But, I’m NOT interested in a fancy wood top; because this would be a clubbing instrument; not to mention those are pricier.
I def trust the painted ML versions to be interesting. But the ML availability in the US is between scant and unobtanium, with extremely few colors available.
The ME versions have more choices and availability. But, the pickups are described as different from the ML version; notably the neck pickup is listed as single coil vs stacked humcancelling. At that point, I have no idea what is going on with the switch options.
Are the ML and ME versions of the M/J 5’s functionally identically, or are they different? Available information is confusing.
Edit: Andy Irvine’s Review vid seems to indicate the pickups and electronics are the same. So, perhaps the product listings regarding the pickups diffs are erroneous. Apologies for my confusion.
I’ve been considering the M/J 5 instruments for some time; both because they have my preferred 5 string neck profile, and the tonal options seem interesting.
But, I’m NOT interested in a fancy wood top; because this would be a clubbing instrument; not to mention those are pricier.
I def trust the painted ML versions to be interesting. But the ML availability in the US is between scant and unobtanium, with extremely few colors available.
The ME versions have more choices and availability. But, the pickups are described as different from the ML version; notably the neck pickup is listed as single coil vs stacked humcancelling. At that point, I have no idea what is going on with the switch options.
Are the ML and ME versions of the M/J 5’s functionally identically, or are they different? Available information is confusing.
Edit: Andy Irvine’s Review vid seems to indicate the pickups and electronics are the same. So, perhaps the product listings regarding the pickups diffs are erroneous. Apologies for my confusion.
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No offense taken, I realize I'm like a broken record, but I have different ergo needs than most.
As I said, the sticky straps (4" suede backed) stick to the shirt so the bass slides down, pulling my shirt with it. It would be fine if I was comfortable at say a 20 degree angle (which works for most people) but up at 45 degrees is where I want it. There is a surprisingly big difference in the amount of downward pull if you want a high angle, as I do.
I'm trying this: pull the lower portion of the strap to the front of the bass and hold it in place with a zip tie to the bridge. It feels good, looks bad, but such is my life.
No, they won't balance that way. If I want to get that angle I have to pull the neck up, and hold it up.
This was from church today. It was request a deacon made with no rehearsal. I forgot to engage the preamp, so this passive with the VTC at 60%. This bass sounds really nice passive!
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This was from church today. It was request a deacon made with no rehearsal. I forgot to engage the preamp, so this passive with the VTC at 60%. This bass sounds really nice passive!
Nice, Doc. Someone mentioned on another thread about the scalloped headstock, the way the strings descend to the tree, and I never noticed it much before that. Now it bugs me. I noticed on my ME that the new Chromes wound a little high on the pegs so I went back and loosened, pushed them down to the bottom. The tree shredded the silk on my upper strings. I get it, about reducing headstock mass, but it is just not the way I am used to seeing it. My other basses are straight paths to the peg.
I guess it's just OCD. Doesn't really matter, just looks weird.
