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Converting an Acoustic Guitar to a Bass, and String Selection

#61
Interesting. The intonation adjustment locks with blocks dovetailed into the base and the height adjustment screws pull the blocks up against the base?

The line drawing looks like aluminum which would be cool on a solid body bass. Maybe not ideal on an acoustic. I actually would consider putting a metal version of either of those bridges, individual saddles of this, on an electric bass. Then again, I like stuff that’s different.

It seems like it could be a bit fiddly to adjust but, since you only do the setup once unless you use different strings all the time, it’s probably not as big a deal.
 
#62
#64
Matt Liebenau said:
Interesting. The intonation adjustment locks with blocks dovetailed into the base and the height adjustment screws pull the blocks up against the base?

The line drawing looks like aluminum which would be cool on a solid body bass. Maybe not ideal on an acoustic. I actually would consider putting a metal version of either of those bridges, individual saddles of this, on an electric bass. Then again, I like stuff that’s different.

It seems like it could be a bit fiddly to adjust but, since you only do the setup once unless you use different strings all the time, it’s probably not as big a deal.
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The blocks will be steel, just sitting in slots. The set screws pilot in the holes. The holes will be flat bottom and only .03" from the bottom. The adjustment does not lock, the strings will keep it in place. Yes, it will be a little tough to get it to initially stay in the right place. I'd like to use as much wood as possible in this, but the height adjustment parts will have to be steel.

WHICH OF THE 3 VERSIONS DO YOU PREFER???

I like the simplicity of the last version.
 
#66
Appearance wise I like the one with the individual wood saddles and the brass/wood/brass laminated string anchor section. Second would be this last design with the solid, archtop type bridge. I can see where this last design would probably be easier to manufacture so, in your position, that might be enough to cause me to go with that design.

On the other hand, from a neck reset point of view, I might go with the one you could make the lowest to the top to try and minimize the strings pulling the bridge off of top.

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out.
 
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#68
Matt Liebenau said:
Appearance wise I like the one with the individual wood saddles and the brass/wood/brass laminated string anchor section. Second would be this last design with the solid, archtop type bridge. I can see where this last design would probably be easier to manufacture so, in your position, that might be enough to cause me to go with that design.

On the other hand, from a neck reset point of view, I might go with the one you could make the lowest to the top to try and minimize the strings pulling the bridge off of top.

Looking forward to seeing how this comes out.
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Thanks! Since the string tension of the nylon core strings should be about half of steel 6 strings, there shouldn't be a problem with the bridge coming off or being pulled up. I am planning on making a custom "Bridge Doctor" to keep the bridge area from ever tipping. With that installed I'd be able to use flat wounds. While the individual saddles are cool, they'd just be a pain to set up.
 
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#70
I've already started to research making the SeaBass, using a Seagull guitar. They have the distinctive tapered headstocks. I'd like to use a Mini Jumbo body style vs. the dread, it's just cooler looking. But they're hard to find. Even harder to find one that I can remove the neck from. In 2006 they changed from bolt on to set necks, glued with epoxy. They only made (2) MJ models back then. Sadly I had one of them and sold it last year!!!
 
#71
#73
Will_White said:
I'm not sure I understand how it works, on arch top floating bridges the wood saddle just has a hole and the height adjustment is done with the discs. Are your saddles threaded?
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Yes, it the same thing. The saddle has 2 holes, slightly oversize to allow for pivoting for the compensation. I could have made them blind holes, but I don't know how much adjustment I will need. The shorter I make the saddle, the less engagement there is with the set screws.

If I can dial in the neck reset correctly I may be able to put blind holes in the saddle. But I don't know what the action should be. I've seen so many wide ranges of numbers. I assume it has a lot to do with a person's style of play. I assume a short scale can get away with lower action since the strings can't oscillate as much as a full 34" scale. But I need a place to start. ANY SUGGESTIONS??
 
#74
For my part, I tend to set my short or medium scale basses with a slightly higher action or use heavier gauge strings. One way to look at it is that a 32” scale is, approximately, the same as putting a capo on the first position of a 34” scale and tuning to the same pitch. For lack,of a better term, the same gauge strings are “looser” on a shorter scale. Having said that, I have not used those guitar scale specific bass strings so YMMV.
 
#75
Matt Liebenau said:
For my part, I tend to set my short or medium scale basses with a slightly higher action or use heavier gauge strings. One way to look at it is that a 32” scale is, approximately, the same as putting a capo on the first position of a 34” scale and tuning to the same pitch. For lack,of a better term, the same gauge strings are “looser” on a shorter scale. Having said that, I have not used those guitar scale specific bass strings so YMMV.
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I've seen that short length guitars need larger size strings. The micro bass strings are typically nylon core, the metal windings are just there to add mass. The E in the LaBella CB40 set is .095", and .115" in the Silverback set. I bought both and will make the holes in the bridge for the wrappings of the larger set. There's also a LaBella flat wound set with the E being .108", and I think they're rather expensive. None of LaBella's strings have tension numbers.

So I guess I won't know what the action will be until I build it!! I have a jig to clamp the neck to the guitar to be able to add string tension. This guitar had a glued in tapered dovetail neck, not a bolt on, so I can't easily attach the neck for testing.

The big disadvantage of having the strings feed thru the bridge is I can't remove the strings during the neck reset. I can lift them out of the tuners, but once they're installed I can't remove them from the guitar without cutting them. That's not happening!! Unless I make the top of the bridge removable. Something else to think about!!!!
 
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#76
CTGull said:
I've seen that short length guitars need larger size strings. The micro bass strings are typically nylon core, the metal windings are just there to add mass. The E in the LaBella CB40 set is .095", and .115" in the Silverback set. I bought both and will make the holes in the bridge for the wrappings of the larger set. There's also a LaBella flat wound set with the E being .108", and I think they're rather expensive. None of LaBella's strings have tension numbers.

So I guess I won't know what the action will be until I build it!! I have a jig to clamp the neck to the guitar to be able to add string tension. This guitar had a glued in tapered dovetail neck, not a bolt on, so I can't easily attach the neck for testing.

The big disadvantage of having the strings feed thru the bridge is I can't remove the strings during the neck reset. I can lift them out of the tuners, but once they're installed I can't remove them from the guitar without cutting them. That's not happening!! Unless I make the top of the bridge removable. Something else to think about!!!!
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I would just make the saddle as short as you're comfortable with and file the string slots until you get to the right height. I don't think you'll need to do a neck reset.
 
#77
Will_White said:
I would just make the saddle as short as you're comfortable with and file the string slots until you get to the right height. I don't think you'll need to do a neck reset.
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This is a 49 year old guitar. The neck angle is way off from years of string tension. It's very common. I've done neck resets on 10 vintage Yamaha's previously. Without resetting the neck angle the bridge would have to be 1/4" off the top of the guitar. And the neck is already off the guitar so I could modify the headstock, refinish it, and change the frets. Actually, resetting the neck angle might be the easy part of this whole conversion!
 
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#78
Last night, instead of sleeping, I was thinking about the problem of not being able to remove the strings during the neck reset. They would flop around, ripping up the finish on the guitar.

My first idea was to drill the (4) holes large enough to pass the strings thru the bridge. Then all I need is a way to retain them. This is yesterdays version, without the larger holes.
YamaBass Bridge Assy v6.0_6.JPG

My first idea (this was at 2:30am) was to slot some washers, slide them over the strings, and pulling the string will seat the washer against the bridge. The obvious problem is without any tension on the strings the washers will turn and fall out. NOPE!!

My next idea was to drill (4) small holes thru to top of the bridge and use some kind of decorative nail to go thru the hole in the ball end. Once the nail is in the bridge it isn't falling out. Installation might be a little tough.

And the FINAL, and most obvious solution, is to go BACK to a pin bridge!! It may not be as fancy as a brass and rosewood laminated tailblock, but it's practical. And I'll be able to remove the strings.

I ordered 1 set each of black and cream bass bridge pins from my buddies at Arkansas Musicwork on eBay. $12.98 total!! Highly recommended!! They're an All Parts dealer. They sell for less than list price AND free shipping. I'm guessing they get the stuff for 50% off, ship for free, and still make a decent profit. I'm not complaining!! And it beats getting raped at Stew Mac!!

I'll model up a new version in the next few days. I probably won't see the bridge pins until early/mid next week.
 
#80
Matt Liebenau said:
Could you cut a recess that holds the string end then a slot in the top of the anchor part for the string to pass through like a quick release bass bridge? Not sure if the materials (wood, brass?) will work for that.

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That's a thought. If the holes are on the right angle to the top of the saddle there's no upward force. Just a slot for each one and a lip in the back to be sure the ball end can't drift upward when installing.

The only problem will probably be the curved back of the bridge. That makes the holes break out at 2 different heights.

I was also thinking about cutting the top of the bridge back at the same 15 degrees as the holes.

It's all easy when it's still in CAD!!
 

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