Fun fact: sometimes spec'd corner radii aren't right. Best to order the corners first and test on a piece of scrap.
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Custom DIY 2x15 cab build
- Thread starter johnk_10
- Start date
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,633
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
My vintage Fender and Sunn cabs have a 3/8" radius, which is also what I used on my Showman clone a few years ago. Works the Fender and Sunn style metal corners...
Here's a couple of pics of my recently completed build using John's specs. Since I was going to put some JBL D140's in it I knew I wouldn't be able to keep it under 50 pounds (30 pounds just for the speakers), and being a sucker for vintage Fender, I decided to give it an old style look. I used tolex instead of the duramax, and made a pine frame for the grill cloth. I then secured the frame to the baffle with velcro. It came in at 68.5 pounds, which is still almost 30 pounds lighter than my Dual Showman with the D130's.
Attachments
It's built to John's specs, so it's 1/2 inch, with a 1/4inch strip glued to the front to make it look like 3/4 inch.
I got the corners, handles, tolex, and grill cloth on eBay from musicpartsguru.
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,633
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
WOW! Looking good!
Did you port it? Or keep it sealed? You did say "JohnK spec," I know. Just asking...
WOW! Looking good!
Did you port it? Or keep it sealed? You did say "JohnK spec," I know. Just asking...
Yes, dual ports.
Very nice! I'll be it sounds fab too! I'm jealous! Makes me want to get started on my 2x15 cabs!!!
- Feb 16, 2008
- 21,240
- 23,633
- Disclosures
- John K Custom Basses
Excellent job! I'm building some small cabinets out of 1/2" plywood. How were your able to glue your corners as butt joints and then route them round, without running into any screws or nails? That's where I'm having problems. Thanks!
thanks.
i used screws with small diameter heads on them and contersunk them. then i doweled the countersunk holes.
Butt-joints... I know it's old news, but it does still make me a little twitchy! But they look great, all these 1/2" ply boxes. I've still got my Kappalite 3015s in old-school TL-606s, and even with the neos they still weigh 62 lbs each. Enough to remind me to do something about it! Still lurking. Finding time is heck in a basket, but still lurking...
I have used the same method on two recently completed projects (1/2" Ply, butt joint, PL bonded at joint with an additional 1/4" "fillet" at the joint, air powered brad nailer). Both turned out extremely durable.
On their own, the brad nails dont provide much, as that wouldn't be their purpose at any rate. From My understanding, when using an adhesive like PL, the sole purpose of the mechanical fastener is to hold things together until the PL fully cures. From Mine and other's experiences with PL, it is a VERY strong adhesive and produces a very sound joint that is actually stronger than the plywood.
FWIW, Just a testiment to the strength of PL. I recently took apart an old DIY cab that I used PL on and for laughs I tried to beat it apart with a hammer. The plywood turned into a splintered mess, while the PL held strong. That being said, I found it much easier to just cut it into peices with a sawsall to throw it away.
On their own, the brad nails dont provide much, as that wouldn't be their purpose at any rate. From My understanding, when using an adhesive like PL, the sole purpose of the mechanical fastener is to hold things together until the PL fully cures. From Mine and other's experiences with PL, it is a VERY strong adhesive and produces a very sound joint that is actually stronger than the plywood.
FWIW, Just a testiment to the strength of PL. I recently took apart an old DIY cab that I used PL on and for laughs I tried to beat it apart with a hammer. The plywood turned into a splintered mess, while the PL held strong. That being said, I found it much easier to just cut it into peices with a sawsall to throw it away.
I know PL is hefty stuff. Maybe I'll just 'butt-joint' it and not tell my carpenter/cabinet-making associates...
I did the same thing, I countersunk them, then, since I was going to use tolex, just filled the holes in with wood putty. The only problem I had was with the corners. As I was rounding over for the metal corners I did run into the screw head, just a little bit. I used a metal file, and that took care of the problem.
