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Danelectro Coral Deluxe Bass project

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Template, forester bit hole, thread-tap, screw in insert - done
fullsizeoutput_1349.jpeg

Works like a charm - not two more dowels to grab pg/control-plate screws. Possibly missed since the factory.
fullsizeoutput_134a.jpeg

Ok, those who have used this bridge - what's up with this? (no space for the string-spool to fit) I have a feeling you'll tell me that I need to put washers under the single connection bolt. If so, that means the bridge makes contact at only 3 small places - really? Talk about a 'floating' bridge...
fullsizeoutput_134b.jpeg
 
I might get that exact one, hopefully we never play at the same gig:smug:

Hey, matching straps would be cool! :D After looking at all the expensive vintage straps - I changed the search words to "woven guitar straps" and way more, way cheaper came up. Of course most were pretty blah, but this one caught my eye. Post a pic of you playing a bass with it when you get it (it's in SJ/CA) and I'll do that with the Coral.
 
Template, forester bit hole, thread-tap, screw in insert - done
View attachment 3392465
Works like a charm - not two more dowels to grab pg/control-plate screws. Possibly missed since the factory.
View attachment 3392470
Ok, those who have used this bridge - what's up with this? (no space for the string-spool to fit) I have a feeling you'll tell me that I need to put washers under the single connection bolt. If so, that means the bridge makes contact at only 3 small places - really? Talk about a 'floating' bridge...
View attachment 3392472
It isn't supposed to be tightened down that far. In other words, if you feel Ike you want that solid connection, you'll have to put washers or spacers between the bridge plate and body to be able to tighten that screw and still maintain that space, but it wasn't designed that way. It's just supposed to float. Besides, once that screw is tight, you'd have a hard time adjusting the two other height screws.
 
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It isn't supposed to be tightened down that far. In other words, if you feel Ike you want that solid connection, you'll have to put washers or spacers between the bridge plate and body to be able to tighten that screw and still maintain that space, but it wasn't designed that way. It's just supposed to float. Besides, once that screw is tight, you'd have a hard time adjusting the two other height screws.

Ok, I'm starting to understand. It wasn't set-up when I got it and I wasn't familiar with Dano-technology. Adding to that it's been mucked with over time, so the clues for clarity are clouded. I'm getting a handle on what needs to happen to get it playable, so it's a step-by-step now that I'm nearly done with the finishing. Shot satin clear lacquer on the body & neck earlier and it's been out in a partially sunny/breezy day so ideal for curing.
 
In fact, it occurs to me that maybe the bent bridge plate problem (which I've never seen) could have happened because owners tried to raise the height screws while the back screw was tightened all the way down?

I have a feeling what I have is an aftermarket repo bridge - it's thick metal and I can't imagine it being bent. I don't think there's a need to create another support for it.

I don't remember what the back screw looks like on mine. I'll take a gander later. I think it's floating as @b/o 402 suggests.

If you have pics I'm interested to see one set up.
 
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It isn't supposed to be tightened down that far. In other words, if you feel Ike you want that solid connection, you'll have to put washers or spacers between the bridge plate and body to be able to tighten that screw and still maintain that space, but it wasn't designed that way. It's just supposed to float. Besides, once that screw is tight, you'd have a hard time adjusting the two other height screws.

This is correct. Look, it seems odd by today's standards of precision engineering, tight tolerances, cnc machining, etc. But it works. Not everything has to be tied up tight! We bass players know that. Danos are more about punch and thump than sustain.
 
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Template, forester bit hole, thread-tap, screw in insert - done
View attachment 3392465
Works like a charm - not two more dowels to grab pg/control-plate screws. Possibly missed since the factory.
View attachment 3392470
Ok, those who have used this bridge - what's up with this? (no space for the string-spool to fit) I have a feeling you'll tell me that I need to put washers under the single connection bolt. If so, that means the bridge makes contact at only 3 small places - really? Talk about a 'floating' bridge...
View attachment 3392472

If you'd like to keep it tight, maybe carve some "foxholes" for the string spools?
 
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If you'd like to keep it tight, maybe carve some "foxholes" for the string spools?

I considered that at first, but now that I'm understanding the concept (with washers) it isn't necessary. Once I start setting it up I'll have a better idea on what needs to happen.
 
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To be honest I need to revisit it a bit. The piece of wood I put in there is too big, it's on the list!

Perhaps that bridge-plate is from the later (90's) RI period. Originals AFAIK were a flat piece with slots to catch the spools. Strings are generally about 1/8' or less contact with saddles so I wonder if your bass will sound different with a smaller (narrower) bridge? You'll have to update us once you get a round to it.
 
Installed the tuners - will still be addressing the (white) DELUXE BASS addition next to the Coral badge later.
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The tuners are reverse-wind - one of the last hold-outs in 1968. Fender switched in 1966.
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As they would say on the Thunderbird thread - "shoes" :)
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