TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
I've been wanting to get a woven strap instead of my boring nylon ones, where did you get it?


I might get that exact one, hopefully we never play at the same gig![]()
It isn't supposed to be tightened down that far. In other words, if you feel Ike you want that solid connection, you'll have to put washers or spacers between the bridge plate and body to be able to tighten that screw and still maintain that space, but it wasn't designed that way. It's just supposed to float. Besides, once that screw is tight, you'd have a hard time adjusting the two other height screws.Template, forester bit hole, thread-tap, screw in insert - done
View attachment 3392465
Works like a charm - not two more dowels to grab pg/control-plate screws. Possibly missed since the factory.
View attachment 3392470
Ok, those who have used this bridge - what's up with this? (no space for the string-spool to fit) I have a feeling you'll tell me that I need to put washers under the single connection bolt. If so, that means the bridge makes contact at only 3 small places - really? Talk about a 'floating' bridge...
View attachment 3392472
It isn't supposed to be tightened down that far. In other words, if you feel Ike you want that solid connection, you'll have to put washers or spacers between the bridge plate and body to be able to tighten that screw and still maintain that space, but it wasn't designed that way. It's just supposed to float. Besides, once that screw is tight, you'd have a hard time adjusting the two other height screws.
In fact, it occurs to me that maybe the bent bridge plate problem (which I've never seen) could have happened because owners tried to raise the height screws while the back screw was tightened all the way down?
I don't remember what the back screw looks like on mine. I'll take a gander later. I think it's floating as @b/o 402 suggests.
It isn't supposed to be tightened down that far. In other words, if you feel Ike you want that solid connection, you'll have to put washers or spacers between the bridge plate and body to be able to tighten that screw and still maintain that space, but it wasn't designed that way. It's just supposed to float. Besides, once that screw is tight, you'd have a hard time adjusting the two other height screws.
Template, forester bit hole, thread-tap, screw in insert - done
View attachment 3392465
Works like a charm - not two more dowels to grab pg/control-plate screws. Possibly missed since the factory.
View attachment 3392470
Ok, those who have used this bridge - what's up with this? (no space for the string-spool to fit) I have a feeling you'll tell me that I need to put washers under the single connection bolt. If so, that means the bridge makes contact at only 3 small places - really? Talk about a 'floating' bridge...
View attachment 3392472
I see mine is a different design than the one you have. I have mine (perhaps incorrectly) tightened against the body via the back screw. The strings feed through the bridge plate.
If you'd like to keep it tight, maybe carve some "foxholes" for the string spools?
To be honest I need to revisit it a bit. The piece of wood I put in there is too big, it's on the list!