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I understand the "signature required" part. My complaint is with their system: It accepts I've made a change to the delivery, but doesn't reflect that change in the notifications.I do use UPS (and USPS) always insured and always 'sig upon arrival' and haven't had an issue like with FedEx and now Amazon. Only once was there a damaged delivery w/UPS and it was efficiently resolved. Point being - out of the shipping options, UPS & USPS treat their employees better and do the most to be responsible. I have a face-to-face relationship with my postman, and UPS would never do what FedEx or Amazon would do, at least in my experience shipping basses/guitars etc for the past 10+ years with them.
Your case is unusual but understandable as they don't want to be held liable if it was stollen. Unfortunately their policy is based on the reality of our current world of desperate thieves.
Very old post reply, but I know you George!Hey, count me in. Just picked this up the other day. Lovin it...
View attachment 2031977
The Labella sets I've played have this very piercing high end that sounds exactly like this:
A great sound sometimes, but not what I want to hear all the time. I was wondering which was brighter, a dead set of XL's or the LaBellas, and I'm pretty well convinced now that the LaBellas are brighter. So I won't be getting them.
I use 760FSS. I've never tried the 760FDs. I'd expect them to be too light and floppy (especially the E and A?) for me.Newest family member.
View attachment 7071348
'58 Red Hot
Gonna try the La Bella 760-FD first, then the 760FS-S. Need me some flats.
Sign me up @portaflexer!
I'd already ordered the 760-FDs before I got far enough in this thread to learn better/more/different...I use 760FSS. I've never tried the 760FDs. I'd expect them to be too light and floppy (especially the E and A?) for me.
I suppose on an old '60s Dano with no truss rod, lower tension might be what you'd want. This bass has a truss rod, though, so you can use any (short-scale) strings you want, basically.
Plus the weight! Like playing "air bass"!playing the Dano is like getting a break during the set
For sure, that is also a big part of the break! Forgot to mention that. The other bass is just shy of 10#, which isn't a big deal, as it balances nicely. However, that sub-6# Longhorn...Plus the weight! Like playing "air bass"!
I'd already ordered the 760-FDs before I got far enough in this thread to learn better/more/different...
I expect them to be a too light for my tastes as well.
What are the values of these post? 250/500 like a Fender?I posted a picture a long time ago in another thread, so I guess I should go for an official post here. I used to have an MIC Dead-On '58 Longhorn. It sounded great, but never felt quite right. Then I traded locally for an MIK Longhorn Pro. That was the right move - the look and sound I wanted with improved feel. I had Chromes on it for awhile, but switched last year to half-rounds (my preferred string) for some more zing. Here 'tis:
View attachment 2502869Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr
I wanted something a little different in the pickguard, so I added a pearloid one from an eBay seller.
View attachment 2502870Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr
View attachment 2502871Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr
A previous owner replaced the tuners with Hipshot Ultralites. They stick out a bit further than I'd like and look a little goofy; but when you play a Longhorn, I think goofy is part of the package! (They'are also great for reducing neck dive on a such a light bass.)
View attachment 2502872Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr
View attachment 2502873Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr
I haven't played this one in awhile, but my urge to clean it up and tinker is rising. So I have a couple of questions for you fellow Dano players. I have the height screws as low as they can go without expanding the holes in the body. The action still seems a bit high, except for low F where it's buzzing slightly. I plan to shim the neck, but there's also the famous Danelectro bridge sag:
View attachment 2502874Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr
I want to take off the saddles and straighten out the plate. Are there any recommended methods? I was thinking of pressing it between pieces of wood using c-clamps. If that's the way, how long should it set? (I don't really want to go for the drilling/thumbscrew method as I lack the tools and expertise.)
Also, I like the more recent knobs that have embedded metal beads so you can quickly see the settings. I tried to drill mine and glue in small nails, but the ones on the tone controls keep falling off.
View attachment 2502875Danelectro Longhorn by thaddeusthompson, on Flickr
I want to replace them outright. Is there a DIY on how to remove and replace the knobs?
Don't dismiss them out of hand; La Bella has made those FD's for many, many years. And, truss rod or not, many, many Longhorns have worn them. My lefty '18 Longhorn did, for a while. I replaced them with a set of La Bella 760FXs, but only because I play with a pick about 98% of the time, and for me? The FX's work just a smidge better. I also have long scale FX's on one of my DC59 Pros. The feel under my fretting hand is the same, though; and so is the tone...I'd already ordered the 760-FDs before I got far enough in this thread to learn better/more/different...
I expect them to be a too light for my tastes as well.
Great bass for the money -

100K/1MWhat are the values of these post? 250/500 like a Fender?
FYI - I changed mine to Fender stacked 250/500 and it made the electronics usable.Thank you so much!