Yup. My bass has the metal, adjustable bridge. My bari has the rosewood. I've never once wished that one of them had the other type of bridge in terms of sound.
Agreed.
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Danelectro Owners Club
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Yup. My bass has the metal, adjustable bridge. My bari has the rosewood. I've never once wished that one of them had the other type of bridge in terms of sound.
Agreed.
First; I sympathize with the folks who are having problems with their bridges, and screws pulling out. But, I'm a little confused. Both my Danos are lefty Korean DC Pros, with the all-metal adjustable bridges. On those, the bridge sits on top of the 2 front screws, and is only held onto the body by the screw in the rear- in my case, very long screws that I can't imagine ever pulling out. The load on them has to be 99.9% lateral; which, considering how little of the screws are actually out of the body, is not going to pull it sideways, much less out. Are the rosewood-saddle bass bridges mounted differently? The amp-in-case Silvertone guitar that I re-built for a friend is definitely Danelectro-made; and it's rosewood-saddle bridge is mounted exactly like my DC Pro's bridges. I can understand the 2 front screws being pushed down into the body if they were too small for the holes, or the wood was messed up somehow. I can't see how they could be pulled out, though; virtually all the load is down. And, the same goes for the back screw. I'd think the screw would have to be way too short/small, or the wood completely shot, for it to be completely pulled out by a stress that's almost completely sideways.Enlighten me, please.
Good point. I understand what you are saying and it makes perfect sense. My bass is just as you describe, with the bridge resting on the 2 screws. All I know is that my bass was set up well for a while, then the strings were a mile high off the fretboard. In that other '62 aqua bass thread, another guy also had an issue with the strings suddenly being higher and he needed a new setup. He attributed it to a warped body. I'm guessing that it's what I found, with the screws coming out. What I saw is in the photo, below. I don't have much of a decent explanation for it.
That is a really weird photo. It almost looks like the Masonite is caving in around the front bridge screw. But why? We'd need more photos from different angles to see what's going on.
There's no way these 2 front screws can "pull out" - there's no upward pressure on them - the pressure is downwards.
I really dislike the adjustable Dano bridges. The original bridge works better and sounds better, IMO - even with the bending.
There's no way these 2 front screws can "pull out" - there's no upward pressure on them - the pressure is downwards.
I really dislike the adjustable Dano bridges. The original bridge works better and sounds better, IMO - even with the bending.
I've been looking to pick up a DC long-scale, can't find it at ANY reasonable prices (Evil-Bay has DC's 550-650, which seems about 200 too high IMO). I've played 'em, and the DC would work well for my sound. Just have to be patient. Feel free to PM me with any leads, would love to join the club, even better, would like to grab a DC. I haven't tried the short-scales, I doubt the tone would be anything like a DC. Even Longhorns are going for 420-500, seems high again, or maybe I"m living in the 90's.
Unfortunately, that does seem to be the going price. Most "modern" Dano basses have been short scale, and that (meaning the '90s) was I think the only time they did the old original body styles with a long scale. The '90s Hodad basses were also long scale, and well regarded, but maybe that's not what floats your boat. Some 63 basses are long scale, and you might find one for less than a DC.
Rumour basses are also long scale, but solid-bodied.
Have you tried a short-scale Dano? The most recent Hodads are short scale, and you can pick one up new for $250-300ish.
But if you you only want a DC, and only at the price you want to pay, I guess you'll have to be patient and hope you get lucky. It could happen, I guess!
(I want them to do a short scale DC bass. If I keep typing that, maybe it might help it happen some day? Maybe they could do short and long, as they did with the 63s? Can we start a groundswell?
)EDIT I didn't read your post carefully, where you said you haven't tried short scale.
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Good point. I looked it over and, as far as I can tell, the entire body is totally flat. No caving in. No pulling out. No warping. Just as it should be.
The only other thing that I can think to have caused what is in the photo is my turning the screws up/out at some point when I was setting up the bass a while ago. However, that doesn't explain why the bass shifted from well set up to having the strings a mile above the fretboard. Eh, maybe I'm not being helpful here and just adding confusion?
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It looks as if the screw is threaded into some sort of grommet, and it is the grommet that is pulling out. I had this happen on an EPI Les Paul three-point bridge and had to glue the grommets in place to get them to stay down. The only way I can account for the picture would be if the screw is going through the bridge and pulling the bridge down instead of the bridge (correctly) resting
on the screw. The geometry just does not look right in that pic.
on the screw. The geometry just does not look right in that pic.
Right. It looks like there is a grommet or collet or something in there. Some people have said that it is just a screw going into the wood- no grommet. I don't know. That closeup photo actually shows things better than what I can see with my eyes. On the other side of the bridge on the other screw, I don't see the pulling out like is in the photo. I agree that the bridge should be resting atop the screws. So there should be no force pulling the screws up or out. I, too, am confused.
I'll have to check my Dano a little later today to see what type of bridge mounting method is used. But from the photo on ths thread it looks like Dano used threaded body inserts for the bridge mounting screw to go into. That's not uncommon for other basses as well (Gibson three point is similar). It is possible to pull these inserts out by accident simply by over tightening the bridge screw. This strips the insert from the wood and then the string tension slowly pulls the insert out of the body.
What I can't figure out is that black thing in the pic, what is it?
What I can't figure out is that black thing in the pic, what is it?
Yeah, it looks like threaded inserts and I was wondering if it was the insert or the screw that was coming out. Maybe I pulled out the insert one day while setting up the bass? I don't know.
I can't tell you what that black thing is. But I'll take a look at it more closely (when I get home). It's actually easier to see things in the photo than looking at it in person. So I don't know if I'll be able to figure it out. In person, it's small. In the photo it's relatively large.
The black thing is the ground wire. Runs to the lower front bridge screw.
I'm pretty sure there's no grommet. I think you just (somehow) stripped out the screw hole.
It's a weird photo. The individual saddles are completely flat on the bridge plate.
I'm pretty sure there's no grommet. I think you just (somehow) stripped out the screw hole.
It's a weird photo. The individual saddles are completely flat on the bridge plate.
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Upon a closer look it looks like that black thing might be the ground wire for the bridge. Looks kinda like the black insulation was cut back and the bare wire was wrapped around the bridge screw or possibly the threaded insert. If that's the case it would explain how this failure could easily happen.
As a rule of thumb when using inserts, the wood around the insert should be void of any weak spots (holes, routes, knots, etc.) for a minimum of one diameter of the insert. So if we assume your insert is 3/8" diameter then there shouldn't be anything that could weaken the wood within 3/8" on any side of the insert. That grounding wire (assuming that's what it is) was run through a hole to get to your control cavity. The hole was drilled way too close to the threaded insert and consequently weakened the wood around it. As you tightened that screw (something every player would eventually need to do on that bridge) the threaded insert probably pulled out.
The structural fix is relatively simple in a solid body instrument. The cosmetic damage will be harder to fix on this type of bass but if most of the damage is covered by the bridge it may not be too noticible. Basically you'll need to epoxy the insert back in the body and after a day or so of drying you should be able to reconnect the ground wire and reinstall the bridge and strings. Since this bridge mount is a relatively weak design I'd recommend taking some tension off the strings when you make bridge height adjustments on this bass in the future. Its a pain in the butt but you don't need to do it very often.
Also, take care when you epoxy the insert in place, you don't want to get any of that epoxy inside the insert where the bridge screw threads are or it will be impossible to get the bridge screw to work properly.
I can't tell for sure if your bass has an insert, if it doesn't and just uses a wood screw instead, the fix is even easier. Basically you just need to remove the bridge and screw and jam as many wood glue covered toothpicks into the hole as you can. Then after about a day of drying reinstall the bridge and screw. Same note goes for this type of fix, slacken your strings before making bridge height adjustments.
Good luck!
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Yeah, I thought that there might be some sort of grommet/insert thing there, too, after looking at the picture. But, if its the ground wire...? I suppose it could cause the problem, especially if that's the only screw that's pulling out. I still don't think so, though, and here's why. One of my DC's is apart at the moment, pending some customizing, so I can poke around inside. The ground wire on that one was also on one of the front bridge screws. BUT, it was trapped between the Masonite and the unthreaded shank of the screw (sort of like yours in the picture), so there was never any interference with the threads. Plus, if yours is like mine, there is a milled slot, about 1/4" deep by 1/2" wide, across the plywood block that runs up the middle of the body. It runs right underneath the Masonite top where the 2 front bridge screws go; they aren't actually screwed into anything for 3/8"-1/2" from the top of the bass. So, if that's the case with yours, either the screw itself is bending because it's poorly made; or, it's too short; or both. I would pull them all out and check. And, yes it's always possible that the wood is bad; but if it is, IMO it's going to be a trick doing anything about it, down in that slot under the Masonite. As for the ground wire; I have the wiring diagram for a DC-59 guitar, and it shows the ground wire-with an eyelet lug on it- being attached to the bridge pickup bracket. Which is how both of my DC bass' will be, eventually.
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Hi Fellas,
I took a look at the bass before I saw your posts. And my conclusion was that it’s the grounding wire. I come here to see that you all thought the same thing.
GBassNorth-
Very nice post! Right, you’d think that the hole for the wire should be a bit farther away from the screw hole than, I don’t know, actually part of the screw hole. But it’s a cheaply put together bass. So I knew that going in.
Right, fixing it shouldn’t be too bad. And the bridge does cover most of it. For now, the bass is holding together, is set up fairly well, and plays OK. So I’m not going to touch anything. If it does another jump to being unplayable maybe I’ll fix it. Thanks for the tips. It looks like very basic skills to do so. Or maybe I’ll just move on. We’ll see.
GIBrat51-
Thanks for the description of what goes on inside. So do these bridge screws screw into that internal block of wood? That might be how it has the stability that it does. And maybe the non-threaded part of the screws are chosen so as not to put pressure on the masonite layer?
My bass is stable and playing fine, at least for the moment. So I’m not going to mess it up just to poke around inside and satisfy my curiosity.
I took a look at the bass before I saw your posts. And my conclusion was that it’s the grounding wire. I come here to see that you all thought the same thing.
GBassNorth-
Very nice post! Right, you’d think that the hole for the wire should be a bit farther away from the screw hole than, I don’t know, actually part of the screw hole. But it’s a cheaply put together bass. So I knew that going in.
Right, fixing it shouldn’t be too bad. And the bridge does cover most of it. For now, the bass is holding together, is set up fairly well, and plays OK. So I’m not going to touch anything. If it does another jump to being unplayable maybe I’ll fix it. Thanks for the tips. It looks like very basic skills to do so. Or maybe I’ll just move on. We’ll see.
GIBrat51-
Thanks for the description of what goes on inside. So do these bridge screws screw into that internal block of wood? That might be how it has the stability that it does. And maybe the non-threaded part of the screws are chosen so as not to put pressure on the masonite layer?
My bass is stable and playing fine, at least for the moment. So I’m not going to mess it up just to poke around inside and satisfy my curiosity.
Yes, they do. The center block in there runs the length of the body, and mostly goes right up against the Masonite. It ties the top and bottom of the bass together, in an attempt to control feedback; making these DCs semi-hollow body basses. The only places where the block is not up against the top (that I can see without mirrors and stuff) are under the 2 front bridge screws. and under the pickups. No, I doubt the screws are the way they are to protect the Masonite. That's just a side effect. Above a certain diameter and length, that's just how this kind of wood screw is.
RE: Collapsing bridge plates.
I have a couple of first wave RI Danos on which the bridgeplate collapsed a bit in the middle. My solution was to remove the bridge and bend the front of the bridgeplate into a slight convex arch so the string pressure would force it flat. That was shortly after the first wave RIs were introduced and those bridgeplates are still OK today.
RE: "Black thing"
Ground wire
I have a couple of first wave RI Danos on which the bridgeplate collapsed a bit in the middle. My solution was to remove the bridge and bend the front of the bridgeplate into a slight convex arch so the string pressure would force it flat. That was shortly after the first wave RIs were introduced and those bridgeplates are still OK today.
RE: "Black thing"
Ground wire
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The prices on DCs seem a little high, but when one compares them to anything else of equal quality - that is playability and usable sound stock, you are going to pay that kind of money for something made in Korea now AND they are in demand. Same with the longhorns - the new ones are around $400 and the ones people tend to want (ie demand, collectability - whatever you want to call it) so it only makes sense that the "desirable" ones go for as much as the current good-but-not-exactly-what people-want ones. right?
And I say this with every hope of "scoring" a 90s longhorn to replace my old one in the $250 range - it just aint gonna happen - a used guitar for that price - pretty easy to find - but the two desirable basses unfortunately those days are gone.
The difference in tone between long and short scale on these is surprisingly subtle (and that's not just my opinion - either Bassplayer or the big British guitar mag (can't think of the name) did a review and they said the same thing - they were shocked by the lack of difference in sound). I was hesitant to go the other direction (liked my longhorn), but when I got the chance at the 63 cheap I jumped at it and have been extremely happy (even with the issues you may have read over the last couple of pages) and I really only want my longhorn back for nostalgia reasons (and I like gloss finishes).
That's very interesting! I did not know they were built different from other Danos (ie most Danos are hollow with a block under the bridge) - I am suprized by the fact that they've never reissued these given they do seem to have the most demand out there relative to supply.Yes, they do. The center block in there runs the length of the body, and mostly goes right up against the Masonite. It ties the top and bottom of the bass together, in an attempt to control feedback; making these DCs semi-hollow body basses. The only places where the block is not up against the top (that I can see without mirrors and stuff) are under the 2 front bridge screws. and under the pickups. No, I doubt the screws are the way they are to protect the Masonite. That's just a side effect. Above a certain diameter and length, that's just how this kind of wood screw is.
ALSO - re "upwards pressure" you are mostly right - there in theory should be NO upward pressure. However, the lateral pressure on the bridge from string tension (the screws go into recesses on the bottom - that's what keeps it from twisting) provides upward pressure in two ways - one by pulling sideways the screws need to "come up" to follow the tension, secondly, because of that lateral tension the screws can get "locked in" effectively to the bridge and thus if one gets overzealous tightening the bridge down (these 63s seem to need the bridge VERY low) you could end up with the screw pulling up on the wood rather than down into the wood - especially with the crap wood they used in these.
Thanks for the reality check Dan-O!! Time to shell out some cash, right now it's mostly Longhorns on the markey, a few Hodads, occasionally a Rumor used. The DC's are ridiculously expensive, I can live without.
My back will thanks me, and I really DO like the Danelectro tone.
My back will thanks me, and I really DO like the Danelectro tone.
