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Danelectro Owners Club

Just recently got a set of the old Danelectro bass strings (nos) and even 20 years old they're the best strings I've used on one of these (and easy to put on being guaged to play well with the tuners)... Nice balance between top end definition and low end warmth.
Anyone know what these strings really are (is who made them) and if essentially the same set is available from the maker?
 
Just recently got a set of the old Danelectro bass strings (nos) and even 20 years old they're the best strings I've used on one of these (and easy to put on being guaged to play well with the tuners)... Nice balance between top end definition and low end warmth.
Anyone know what these strings really are (is who made them) and if essentially the same set is available from the maker?
I'll be interested too. Can you tell what kind of strings? ...round wound nickel, for instance? ...guages, even a guess? Thx.
 
I'd like to join the Danelectro Club - here's my Korean 90-ish something DC, pic is horrendous, but no picky, no shirt, right? These are surprisingly versatile basses IMO, and light is right!
 

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I suppose it's time for a membership update. Let me know if I missed anyone.

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109 - Gringo Basso
 
I'd like to join the Danelectro Club - here's my Korean 90-ish something DC, pic is horrendous, but no picky, no shirt, right? These are surprisingly versatile basses IMO, and light is right!
If you care, 1999 or 2000 for this original DCs.
Don't be surprised, Danelectros were brought back because they were stone cold classics, and this model was an attempt at making it even more "mainstream" with a long scale and semi-solid construction.
Do you by any chance play it in some Mexican setting (gringo basso) like mariachi or tejano? That would be sweet and the Dano thump would be perfect for it.
 
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I'll be interested too. Can you tell what kind of strings? ...round wound nickel, for instance? ...guages, even a guess? Thx.
They are round wounds, I'm guessing heavy on the nickel, 45 to 105 if you'll believe it, but because they are the right length the string is (just) small enough to go through the guitar tuners. The only guessed part is the nickel... I'll have to find the package for the content though I don't think it actually said... Lots of cool retro graphics, not much info.
 
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They are round wounds, I'm guessing heavy on the nickel, 45 to 105 if you'll believe it, but because they are the right length the string is (just) small enough to go through the guitar tuners. The only guessed part is the nickel... I'll have to find the package for the content though I don't think it actually said... Lots of cool retro graphics, not much info.
Thanks. Did the reissuers miss the boat by not making a dedicated set readily available? ...just thinkin'...
 
I currently have an adjustable metal bridge on my longhorn. I have been contemplating switching over to a wooden bridge for a warmer more woody tone. Is this snake oil or do those of you with wooden bridges notice a difference?
 
I currently have an adjustable metal bridge on my longhorn. I have been contemplating switching over to a wooden bridge for a warmer more woody tone. Is this snake oil or do those of you with wooden bridges notice a difference?
A lot of people claim a difference, and I personally prefer the rosewood, but its pretty subtle, and I'd say less than the difference between two guitars of the same model, try a warmer set of strings (nickel or flatwound) you'll get a biggest difference.
If hover you're looking to do a lot of palm muting, I think the rosewood is more comfortable on the hand.
 
I have some very dead sounding Labella low tension flats on right now. I do like the tone but was wondering if I might be able to push that further with a wooden bridge.

I've used both bridges and didn't notice much difference using flats/tapes but I prefer the intonation capabilities of the metal bridge on RIs.

Same with my Jerry Jones basses. With flats/tapes, I don't notice much of a difference in tone between his stick and metal bridges.

I stick with the OEM stick bridges on my Silvertone 1444s. (pun intended)
 
A lot of people claim a difference, and I personally prefer the rosewood, but its pretty subtle, and I'd say less than the difference between two guitars of the same model, try a warmer set of strings (nickel or flatwound) you'll get a biggest difference.
If hover you're looking to do a lot of palm muting, I think the rosewood is more comfortable on the hand.

I too prefer the rosewood bridge. More wood and less metal equals less zing IMO.
 
Yeah, I guess the one set I buy wouldn’t keep ‘em going ;). Still, do normal short-scale sets fit reissue tuners? My Hodad’s long scale and I think it’s not an issue - need to check.
Depends, dano string length is VERY short, so so short strings are even problematic. Having said that, I've use long scale setting and patience to fine effect, though it looks bad, and of course it's only ever the e string that's a problem.
As far as the Hodad, depends on if its long scale or short scale, the long scale should be zero problem b/c its long and had proper tuners, the shorty will be similar to a longhorn.
 
Depends, dano string length is VERY short, so so short strings are even problematic. Having said that, I've use long scale setting and patience to fine effect, though it looks bad, and of course it's only ever the e string that's a problem.
As far as the Hodad, depends on if its long scale or short scale, the long scale should be zero problem b/c its long and had proper tuners, the shorty will be similar to a longhorn.
If you like rounds, I'm not sure what to recommend (except the dano strings) but labella makes a popular flatwound set labelled as their danelectro set, virtually any sdtore will have to special border them for you. AFAICT they're similar to the hofner set which I have experience with (on a hofner) which were pretty nice though my experience with f!ATS is limited to those and the dead sets my 70s Fenders came with.