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Different tone from different wood, really?

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Which blind tests?
Have a link?

There are dozens and dozens on YouTube. People transfer the electronics over, even build plucking machines, and then play versions with different body or necks with the samples not labelled. It's also been done in other audio fields in which those who claim to be able to distinguish between sources, interconnects listen to ABX and often in reality cannot distinguish things. The placebo effect is very strong.
 
Hardness isn't the only variable. I find that grain structure has as much (or more) influence on tone - especially finger/fretboard woods.

An open grain (like rosewood) seems to soak up higher frequencies better than closed grain (maple and ebony), lending a warmer sound.

Absorb is all that any wood can do anyway. If maple sounds brighter then it's just absorbing less energy or at different frequencies.
 
The specific wood has whatever tonal qualities the marketing department says it does.

If you look at the gross properties of the common woods then there is often overlap. Things like the Janka figures are just averages. If you look at the range of density values, for example, there's plenty of overlap. But as noted above, it's not a given that there is a linear relationship between these properties and sound (even assuming complete coupling). Given that only a proportion of the energy of the string ends up vibrating the body the effect is diluted.

I'd expect more effect from the neck as that's a relatively flexible element of a solid body instrument, and so stiffness may make a difference, but then you are also talking a system with at least one metal or other rod in under various possible states of compression
 
If someone were to build 3 identical basses in every way, strung with the same new strings, and the only difference was that the body woods were different - lets say Mahogany, Swamp Ash, and Alder. Now we paint all 3 red. I doubt anyone could tell the difference, but there might be a few lucky guesses.



Years ago there was a thread here where someone did sound samples of a J-bass, then took it apart, and screwed all the parts to a hunk of thick plywood. After several pages of guesses the results were inconclusive. A few people got it right, but said they were just guessing.
 
I’m sorry, but you just seem like a troll to me. It’s difficult to grant a meaningful comment when you reply as you do.

Maybe next time offer something genuine rather than fish for a confrontation. There’s more to life than arguing online with a guy such as yourself.
Maybe next time don’t be condescending to perfect strangers. It’s such a simple concept, I didn’t think it needed to be spelled out, but anecdotes do not equate to facts in any way.

So you sanded your instrument and it sounds different. Paint does not equate to density - perhaps there’s a difference due to reverberation. Perhaps it’s your room. Perhaps it’s just you. There’s zero science and therefore zero fact involved in your anecdote. It’s as useful as a buggy whip or a paperweight. But good job on the condescension.
 
Hardness isn't the only variable. I find that grain structure has as much (or more) influence on tone - especially finger/fretboard woods.

An open grain (like rosewood) seems to soak up higher frequencies better than closed grain (maple and ebony), lending a warmer sound.
I first read this as “gain structure” and was in agreement with you, until I re-read it.
 
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My J Mascis Jazzmaster has an anodized aluminum pickguard- swapped it with a spare plastic tort guard I had in a parts bin but immediately switched it back. The aluminum definitely makes a tonal difference.
If it makes a difference that you can hear, that’s great. I swap pickguards on my p basses like socks, including anodized aluminium, and I can’t hear any difference, but my point is that this subject is never discussed the way that wood is debated.
 
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