I think Sheldon said angled cables definitely don't work with the locking jacks on the canadian models. I'm gonna assume they aren't really gonna work on your jack either, without modifying something
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
I use right angle cables exclusively on Canadian, import model Dingwalls, and every other bass I own. The cable needs to sit out towards the front or out the back of the bass to plug in all the way, but the actual 1/4" male plug fits into the 1/4" female plug just fine.
I forgot about the pictureView attachment 3146443
Beauty.
Unfortunately any angled cable I have tried with that jack doesn’t work. Even some straights don’t work with that style of jack. I have had it on other basses as well. I never have been a fan. I have a few different great cords that I have to make sure I do NOT plan to use with the combustion models.
The neutrik lock-in jacks have received every cable straight or angled that I have owned.
Yea the right angle fits but if i move it just a little it snaps out. I just talked with the customer support at Dingwall and they said it's not really designed for a angled jack.
I bought the Vovox especially for this bass ...
These cables being directional i can't use it the other way...
On my bass on the electronics cover on the back says it a NG2. They said the first models where converted in their shop in Canada to NG3 which is kind of cool
actually, what kind of cables are directional?
aren't all 1/4 to 1/4 the same no matter where you plug them into? try switching the straight plug into the dingwall first.
I tried the straight plug but it doesn't fit well. So the Vovox cables are not working with Dingwall.
The neutrik straight jack is working very well
I tried the bass last night so i will post the first impressions: i am a little underwhelmed. The bass have great fundamentals but it lacks punch. It sounds a little woody or dull of i may say so...
Maybe it's from the pickup height.
I have them at about 3mm on G string and a little lower on B.
When it arrived the pickups where very close to the strings, something like 1mm on the G side and a little lower on B. Practically i was hitting the pickups with the pick when playing.
I will try later today to bring the pickups closer to the strings.
What is your pickup height?
Maybe it's from the pickup height.
I have them at about 3mm on G string and a little lower on B.
When it arrived the pickups where very close to the strings, something like 1mm on the G side and a little lower on B. Practically i was hitting the pickups with the pick when playing.
I will try later today to bring the pickups closer to the strings.
What is your pickup height?
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Definitely lower then that.
3-4 mm for me. I prefer a little space between the strings and pick up shells. I also find that IMO the tones is better with an appropriate amount of space.
Did you check out the set up videos Sheldon posted on YouTube?
I have the same pickup height like you. About 3mm on G and probably almost 4 on B. This is on the bridge pickup. The middle and neck are a little lower.
How do you balance the 3 pickups between them? At the same height i find the middle pickup to have more output than the bridge so i set it a little lower. I can't evaluate the neck pickup because i can't run it single so i set it just a little lower than the midle one
I think that is a tightening screw: you setup the string height and intonation by loosening those two screws and fiddling with it, and then lock the setup by tightening them again.
On Hipshot bridges, the third screw on the top of the saddle is for adjusting the side to side string spacing. Loosen the screw and the piece that the string sits on within the saddle can be moved side to side; get it where you want it, tighten the screw to lock it in place. I'd assume that's what it does here, but I may be wrong, don't have an NG.
I think what you're seeing on the lateral part of the saddle is the end of the rod shaped piece that adjusts side to side within the saddle.
I use angled plugs with my AB1; you just have to have the plug rotated so that the angled part points more forward or backward instead of straight along the edge of the body.
The NG's use a completely different type of jack from the Canadian basses. The NG has a conical recess which really mandates a straight plug I think. At least that is all that I can use with it.
You can use some right angled cables but they need to have a bit of a “standoff” that gives them clearance. Even without this standoff some may work but they have to be rotated just right to go in and if you get your cable snagged, it will come out of your output jack. Ask me how I know that.
Ah, OK. That makes sense. With the canadian basses, it's a Neutrik locking jack that sits in the bottom of a curve such that an angled plug can work, but only if you rotate it just so.
johnsonabq
Watch out where the huskies go...
If you swap the inputs of the neck and middle you will get bridge and neck in parallel (Jazz) in position #2. I don't know if it will ruin position #4 or not.So my blue D'bird arrived today
Does anyone have a wiring scheme for it? I think I might rewire the switch. Maybe get the J-sound out of it if possible.
The third screw is to hold the black rod in place. The rod should remain centered on the saddle as adjusting string spacing on a fanned-fret instrument is not recommended.
The Combustion/NG jacks are designed for straight plugs only.
The pickup should be a little lower. Follow the video guide.
