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Dingwall Owners Club

I've played standard fretless in the past, I had a MIJ Jazz without lines on the board, but for this I think I'd be putting a contrasting color inlay (maple or similar). I have a very qualified local/regional guy who mostly works with high end acoustic instruments, so it would totally not be a hackjob but a fully competent conversion. I recently bought this from a local friend, and it made sense to buy since it was very generous 'friend pricing' along with the consideration that he wouldn't have to post/pack/ship this anywhere. So for me it's a sub-$1k bass, and that might make it a really reasonable candidate.

We also have a prospective 'acoustic' gig or two coming up and while certainly not acoustic, I feel like a fretless fits into that context really well.

Sounds like a quality plan. Cheapest possible way to have a Dingwall fretless for sure. How many fretted basses does a guy need anyways!?! Lol.

DO IT! I've had a Dingwall fretless for the past several years. I went the (not inexpensive) route of having Sheldon make a replacement fretless neck. I'm by no means an expert on fretless, but a Dingwall sounds very good as a fretless (no surprise there.) I do like the fretlines to help me get in the vicinity.

Only thing I can think of is fretboard wear. Sheldon does an epoxy finish and/or uses rock hard ebony for durability.

I think they have moved away from the epoxy as it wasn’t offered as an option to me. I’m at 16ish months now......
 
@AB Nate - Sorry to hear about the wait. You forget all about that afterwards. I think I was well over a year, too. I'm sure you've sent a friendly reminder email or 3? I do remember Sheldon saying he was steering away from epoxy because he got a good supply of ebony. Apparently it is crazy hard to work with (ebony). I love the contrasting fret lines, and was sad to hear he is no longer offering them due to problems with expansion/contraction or something. I've had no issues with my cocobolo ABII with a Jatoba/Ebony fretless neck.

494B097D-46C4-4F5C-99E9-A6952149A920.jpeg
 
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DO IT! I've had a Dingwall fretless for the past several years. I went the (not inexpensive) route of having Sheldon make a replacement fretless neck. I'm by no means an expert on fretless, but a Dingwall sounds very good as a fretless (no surprise there.) I do like the fretlines to help me get in the vicinity.

Only thing I can think of is fretboard wear. Sheldon does an epoxy finish and/or uses rock hard ebony for durability.

I'm going to discuss options with the luthier who will do it. Some people won't work with some materials due to toxicity and such. I'm actually OK with it being just rosewood too. My old MIJ fretless Jazz was an unmarked rosewood board. I think that the stock EMG preamp may be a good fit for fretless too.

Yeah, I think it would be very cool.
I don't see any side dots in your photo. Not sure if they are hidden by the camera angle or not present.
My personal preference on unlined basses is to have side dots on the fret lines.
Even on lined basses, if the lines are difficult to see easily (and for my aging eyes, they probably will be), I would still like prominent dots on the fret lines if possible.
On a Dingwall though, side dots are of less use than on a monoscale, since they are only accurately placed relative to the lowest string. So it's something to ponder.
If you are ever going to play it on a dark stage, you might look into doing Luminlay lines instead, which I think would be very cool. My only concern is that the wood will expand and contract while the Luminlay won't, but that's an issue for any lined fretless where the lines are a different material from the fingerboard. In a perfect world, I would think you might want the lines to have moisture-absorbing properties similar to the fingerboard for expansion/contraction purposes, but I'm no expert on that, and I'd defer to someone with experience with Luminlay fretlines.

It has the standard Dingwall side-dots. I'm not sure I want 'glowing lines' with luminlay, but would go for another high contrast inlay. I think it probably isn't too much of a problem with expansion/contraction, seems like people have been doing this kind of thing for a long time. The person who will do the work lives in the world of acoustic instrument restoration (not just guitars but high-quality vintage/rare symphonic instruments), so I'm thinking he'll have a good sense of what needs to happen?
 
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@AB Nate - Sorry to hear about the wait. You forget all about that afterwards. I think I was well over a year too. I'm sure you've sent a friendly reminder email or 3? I do remember Sheldon saying he was steering away from epoxy because he got a good supply of ebony. Apparently it is crazy hard to work with (ebony). I love the contrasting fret lines, and was sad to hear he is no longer offering them due to problems with expansion/contraction or something. I've had no issues with my cocobolo ABII with a Jatoba/Ebony fretless neck.
View attachment 3145617

Yeah, this is pretty much what I'm thinking. Those fret inlays are also 'deep' enough that they act as accurate side markers as well. I think that looks great.
 
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I'm not sure I want 'glowing lines' with luminlay, but would go for another high contrast inlay. I think it probably isn't too much of a problem with expansion/contraction, seems like people have been doing this kind of thing for a long time. The person who will do the work lives in the world of acoustic instrument restoration (not just guitars but high-quality vintage/rare symphonic instruments), so I'm thinking he'll have a good sense of what needs to happen?
Probably true! But in case you were going to consider Luminlay, I would imagine there may not be a ton of people out there with experience with it yet since I think it is relatively new technology, and in his bread and butter work, he may not have encountered it. (Well, at least I only recently learned about it!)
 
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I've got the Dbird switch right in front of me as part of the NG2-3 upgrade kit that was just delivered. That said, not only can you can get the regular rotary switch, someone here had an amazingly worked-over combustion in white and gold that he had sourced a custom rotary switch with more than four positions for.

Sounds like the ideal way to get the best of all possible worlds!

Yes, this one is mine, thanks, I appreciate it! I'm loving it more and more everyday, I can't get over the tonal options and just the quality of tone in general. Here is that link to my original post about it....


Dingwall Owners Club My Combustion 5 3X with mods
 
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Yeah, I think it would be very cool.
I don't see any side dots in your photo. Not sure if they are hidden by the camera angle or not present.
My personal preference on unlined basses is to have side dots on the fret lines.
Even on lined basses, if the lines are difficult to see easily (and for my aging eyes, they probably will be), I would still like prominent dots on the fret lines if possible.
On a Dingwall though, side dots are of less use than on a monoscale, since they are only accurately placed relative to the lowest string. So it's something to ponder.
If you are ever going to play it on a dark stage, you might look into doing Luminlay lines instead, which I think would be very cool. My only concern is that the wood will expand and contract while the Luminlay won't, but that's an issue for any lined fretless where the lines are a different material from the fingerboard. In a perfect world, I would think you might want the lines to have moisture-absorbing properties similar to the fingerboard for expansion/contraction purposes, but I'm no expert on that, and I'd defer to someone with experience with Luminlay fretlines.
Yes I agree with the above. I would absolutely need lines. When they remove the frets you will have the fret slots so shouldn't be too difficult to line it.
 
Yes, this one is mine, thanks, I appreciate it! I'm loving it more and more everyday, I can't get over the tonal options and just the quality of tone in general. Here is that link to my original post about it....


Dingwall Owners Club My Combustion 5 3X with mods

Cool. Do you have any pointers to where we might go chasing a custom rotary switch? I think there's an appetite for one.

B>
 
@AB Nate - Sorry to hear about the wait. You forget all about that afterwards. I think I was well over a year, too. I'm sure you've sent a friendly reminder email or 3? I do remember Sheldon saying he was steering away from epoxy because he got a good supply of ebony. Apparently it is crazy hard to work with (ebony). I love the contrasting fret lines, and was sad to hear he is no longer offering them due to problems with expansion/contraction or something. I've had no issues with my cocobolo ABII with a Jatoba/Ebony fretless neck.

View attachment 3145617

That is gorgeous.

My fretless is only XX months away.
 
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@AB Nate - Sorry to hear about the wait. You forget all about that afterwards. I think I was well over a year, too. I'm sure you've sent a friendly reminder email or 3? I do remember Sheldon saying he was steering away from epoxy because he got a good supply of ebony. Apparently it is crazy hard to work with (ebony). I love the contrasting fret lines, and was sad to hear he is no longer offering them due to problems with expansion/contraction or something. I've had no issues with my cocobolo ABII with a Jatoba/Ebony fretless neck.

View attachment 3145617

That’s a beautiful bass. Too bad some of (IMO) the finest sounding and looking woods are hard to get and transport these days(CITES)

The wait is pretty much all good. It’s been a bit of a roller coaster. I’ve admittedly been a difficult customer over the course soooo... what it is. I’ve changed a couple things while waiting..... heck I’m having thoughts about more changes but I don’t think I will push for them.

I originally wanted no lines but then I realized I’m just not that good and my hearing isn’t getting better. So I wanted sort of a hybrid design(I can post it if you want to see it)......Dingwall shut me down. It might have to do with working with ebony and the workload that would be required or perhaps it may have to do with the fact that Sheldon would have Ron
(Edit: I don’t know who Ron is but my autocorrect likes him.... sorry. Ron = to. )design it and from what’s I can tell he hasn’t been home much this year with all the shows and such. Either way.... nope at this time I have just found out.
That said, I was given 3 options.
-Side markers(stubby lines),
-luminlay lines
-maple lines

I had also heard Sheldon was moving away from any lines on the fretless builds closer to the beginning of my build but I am now under the obvious impression they have changed back to offering them.

I’ve gone with maple lines and here is why.

Pt .1

I had borrowed(for the second time)a friends unlined fretless Zon. A beast of a bass. Awesome machone but I found this time I had more troubles staying on pitch. I blame this on being solely a fanned fret player for the duration I now have been AND moving to the 6 string. With the six string I found I really had to spend more time on form and you are just dealing with a larger fan period. I THINK this is why I had pitch issues.
Needless to say I got a bit intimidated by the lack of lines. I think I would have faired better on a Dingwall but still. It was a moment that had an impact.
Lines or markers are required of somebody sort (for me) no matter how sexy a naked FB looks.

Pt.2

I’ve had a conversation recently with a proud new fretless Dingwall owner. His identity is not mine to share. I was hesitant to even share this info because it was a private convo but I feel that it is highly relevant and it was a critical convo in my decision making. His bass has luminlay lines. It’s a really stunning looking instrument.

However, it has been mentioned that the luminlay lines can be felt and heard. It is very minor from my understanding and this person is still very satisfied with his instrument but it did make me wary on going that route especially considering my location and how our climate shifts sooo dramatically.

It is my Belief that going with a softener more flexible material closer to the FB material then luminlay would make for a more pliable fretless board that would shift closer to as one as @xnewyorka has mentioned.

So that’s my story..... lol.

But now that I have had experiences with FDVs and the D bird switch in my house, back to back agains other configurations I’m really feeling like smoke may be starting to come out my ears as I am perplexed what electronics I should have installed. Currently spec’d is FDV, DGTC and 3x switch.


Order placed for a 3X rotary pickup selector. :thumbsup: I like the idea of the bridge and middle combined in series, and to be able to tap the bridge and neck, a la Jazz bass.

The traditional 3x switch is no slouch. Great options. I really digging the d bird switch too.

One thing that surprised me how much I liked was the MM postision in parallel=. I’d been using it in series- - on my other basses but in = it’s a really nice tone just less driven. AND!!!! with the toggles switching the pick ups to series is really quite similar still slightly middy.

Lol. Anyways. It’s a lotta fun bouncing sounds through these things. Sooo many tasty flavours.
 
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Cool. Do you have any pointers to where we might go chasing a custom rotary switch? I think there's an appetite for one.

B>

It's just the stock 6 way 4 pole from stew mac but Mo at Nordstand/Mo's shop wired it up with my specs. It has to be wired in place so you would need to ship your bass to him or someone else who was familiar with it. I highly recommend getting it done, gives you full access to all the possible tones in the bass.
 
Hi guys,

I just unpacked a Dingwall NG3 and i have a few questions:
- regarding bridge: on the top of each sadle are 3 screws. 2 are obvious are for string height but i don't know for what is the third. Also on the lateral part of the saddles is another screw which i dont know what is it's purpose
- how do you fit an angled instrument cable into the jack? I tried 2 cables: a vovox and a another cable with neutrik angled jack and they barely fit in there. If i move the cable just a little it snaps out because the angled part is in contact with the body of the bass.
- how low do you have the pickups? I saw the Dingwall setup tutorials on youtube in which they say the the distance between pickups and the strings should be around 3mm on the treble side. Mine is about 1mm, it's almost touching the string if i fret at the last fret.

Thanks!!