Dingwall Owners Club

[Shawn Moon]

While you're at it, you should also try extending it down even farther, another 1/4" or 1/2" so that it wraps around the neck pickup. I'd be curious to see how that looks.

I do need to ask though: Why the pickguard? Do you play hard with a pick and you're afraid of damaging the finish? Do you slap a lot and you're afraid of wearing out the finish adjacent to the G string near the neck?
Did you consider a clear one so that it would be invisible? Or are you specifically wanting the visual effect of a contrasting pickguard?

Its foremost purpose would be the slap zone protection also I want to shorten the length between strings to the top of the bass about 6mm to 10mm.
I thought about the clear sheet pick guard and thick acrylic clear pick guard but both would not serve the two purposes at the same time
One is too thin and the other one would show the adhesive out or I need to drill holes on the bass!

 

[Shawn Moon]

Yeah I actually like the clean look of the Sklar model. What colour is it?
Funny it's called a pick guard, because my pick never touches the wood.
I still have a mark left in the bubinga around the pickup, from my thumbnail, when i used to play fingerstyle.

Like you see in my profile thumb nail, it's deep purple.
and yes, I should name it 'nail guard' since it protects the top from me slapping

 

[DiabolusInMusic]

Because I float my thumb over the strings I don't need the thumb rest.
This will work as a pick guard when I slap and a finger ramp when I finger.

Originally #1 draft was my one and the only shape to go with.
But the builder said it would be very complicated to make with a thin layer of wood that way.
I had to put a quick adjustment
That is #2

Your pickguard needs to be might thick (and rounded) to work as a proper ramp. Additionally, building ramps for Dingwalls is a little tricky due to the angle.

I'm sure everybody has seen this one. I'm surprised nobody here has pounced on this deal yet.
For Sale - Dingwall Combustion 5 string OBO

 

[S-Bigbottom]

I like number one, the bigger one.

the other one would show the adhesive out or I need to drill holes on the bass!

So you are going to use adhesive?
That is good to allow it to be reversed.

My opinion is that having holes drilled would be worse than some finger nail scratches in the finish if the pickguard is ever removed.

I removed the pickguard from my Combustion because it was too pretty to be covered with black plastic (Whalepool Burst). It looks pretty darn good even with the holes, except for one hole where the drill bit chipped out some finish.
If you will be drilling it out be extra careful of finish chip out.

I know they never intended the pickguard to be removed so it is tolerant, you can see it at the bottom leg cut out part before the lower horn (whatever that is called). Just colored it in with a blue color pencil, the other holes colored with green color pencil and from five feet away they disappear.

Still the best bass ever, just giving a warning about drilling into a great finish to add something that may want to be removed in the future.

 

[BassikBrad]

To hard-wire one of your pickups in series, the green and black leads need to be disconnected from the switch assembly and soldered together (and insulated).

Well I finally got around to joining the black & green wires for the Bridge pup. On it's own, solo, the tone is more
rounded & less hard/thin, now when selecting bridge & neck in series, the overall sound is much bigger, articulate
& tighter, with fabulous attack. So I thought how much better is it going to sound if I do the same to the
neck pup black & green wires?
Nope, it didn't sound much different solo nor when I switched to both pups in the series position!
Why would that be ? Is my hearing failing me ? Whatever, I love the sound I have now with just the one change.

Here are some quick snaps I took showing the customization I did. I didn't like the nasty plain black pick guard it came with, so made my own, used double sided sticky tape so no screws visible ! I also like embellished fret boards
as opposed to the austere plain microscopic fret dots, which I can't see when gigging at a poorly lit venue. So
again made my own subtle gold fret markers which catch the light & glisten, however it wasn't easy to capture with the camera.
These Dingwall basses are stunning & now wonder why any one would play anything else? VIVA fanned frets.
My only area of disappointment is the EMG pre amp......it has reinforced my belief that the Sire pre amp is
considerably better in several areas ! But no matter, it is gorgeous in passive mode anyway, who needs a pre amp ?

 

[kirkdickinson]

I like number one, the bigger one.


So you are going to use adhesive?
That is good to allow it to be reversed.

My opinion is that having holes drilled would be worse than some finger nail scratches in the finish if the pickguard is ever removed.

I removed the pickguard from my Combustion because it was too pretty to be covered with black plastic (Whalepool Burst). It looks pretty darn good even with the holes, except for one hole where the drill bit chipped out some finish.
If you will be drilling it out be extra careful of finish chip out.

I know they never intended the pickguard to be removed so it is tolerant, you can see it at the bottom leg cut out part before the lower horn (whatever that is called). Just colored it in with a blue color pencil, the other holes colored with green color pencil and from five feet away they disappear.



View attachment 3241344

Still the best bass ever, just giving a warning about drilling into a great finish to add something that may want to be removed in the future.

How about a custom clear pick guard? You could put the screws back in those holes, show off the top of that pretty bass and have some protection from scratches.

 

[FredeRICK]

I realize that this isn't a completely 'scientific' question and there's likely no firm answer to it, but it's a fairly important one for me to consider, as I've got a pricey bass on order and the window to make changes is going to close at some point.

I currently own an NG-2 (all stock) and an AB-1 (passive, Wenge neck and fretboard) both with nickel Dingwall strings and both awesome in their own right. I've ordered a spiffy AB-1 with a Maple neck and Ziricote fingerboard. It's also passive. My issue is that I so much prefer the sound of the NG-2 that I no longer use the AB-1 at all. I only use the 'both pickups in series' setting. This is my perfect tone and, while the AB-1 sounds great, it just can't produce a tone that I like anywhere near as much. Complicating things further is the fact that I ergonomically prefer the AB-1, with it's unfinished and thinner neck and more comfortable pickup placement.

With all that said, my question is this: what makes the NG-2 sound the way it does compared to my AB-1? Is it the Maple neck/fretboard? Side-by-side pickup placement? The DarkGlass Tone Capsule? Put another way, is there anything I should be changing in my order to make my new AB-1 sound more like an NG-2?

 

[xnewyorka]

I realize that this isn't a completely 'scientific' question and there's likely no firm answer to it, but it's a fairly important one for me to consider, as I've got a pricey bass on order and the window to make changes is going to close at some point.

I currently own an NG-2 (all stock) and an AB-1 (passive, Wenge neck and fretboard) both with nickel Dingwall strings and both awesome in their own right. I've ordered a spiffy AB-1 with a Maple neck and Ziricote fingerboard. It's also passive. My issue is that I so much prefer the sound of the NG-2 that I no longer use the AB-1 at all. I only use the 'both pickups in series' setting. This is my perfect tone and, while the AB-1 sounds great, it just can't produce a tone that I like anywhere near as much. Complicating things further is the fact that I ergonomically prefer the AB-1, with it's unfinished and thinner neck and more comfortable pickup placement.

With all that said, my question is this: what makes the NG-2 sound the way it does compared to my AB-1? Is it the Maple neck/fretboard? Side-by-side pickup placement? The DarkGlass Tone Capsule? Put another way, is there anything I should be changing in my order to make my new AB-1 sound more like an NG-2?

You will be able to get the same NG2 tones out of the new AB if you put two (in same position as on NG2) or three pickups (with 3X switch) into it and put the Darkglass preamp in it. I would also suggest going with the FD3 pickups instead of the FDVs. Of all the physical aspects of the instrument that determine your tone, my feeling is that the pickup placement, string type and condition, and pickup construction, then preamp if present, are the most influential factors, in descending order of importance as listed. After those, again in descending order of importance in my personal opinion, which will be argued by many, the next set of factors include neck wood, then body wood, then fingerboard wood. Every single component of the instrument makes some contribution to the sound, but those are the top seven in my opinion. Of course there are huge other factors that also contribute greatly, such as where on the string you pluck, how you pluck, how you mute, and of course your amp and cabinet and everything else in the signal chain. But all that stuff is out of scope for this conversation, because we are simply talking about making bass number two sound like bass number one.

 

[AB Nate]

View attachment 3240586 View attachment 3240588 View attachment 3240590
I need opinions!
I'm thinking to patch a purple heart wood-pickguard on the Lee Sklar and roughly drew 2 for it.
#1 covers more area, harder and more costly to make
#2 smaller and much cheaper
Which one should I choose?

I got the wood slab and have been contacting wood workers and cnc enigneers.
man, it's not easy as I thought...

I think it’s a cool idea. Definitely something like #1
Like xnewyorka mentioned I think. Pay the $$$ to get it done right as you will be looking at and enjoying it for many moons hopefully.
It will look great and add to the look of the sklar IMP.
Definitely go with adhesive vs screws! Any good woodworker should be able to help you out with ease. Heck I’m not a wood worker and I could do a pretty bang up job.

Good luck and looking forward to seeing the results.

 

[packrat]

You could probably get pretty close putting a Darkglass pedal right after the passive bass too.

 

[S-Bigbottom]

How about a custom clear pick guard? You could put the screws back in those holes, show off the top of that pretty bass and have some protection from scratches.

Thanks but I would rather have the small dark holes that disappear a few steps away than screw heads, even black. Also the finish is quite a thick gloss and my thumb floats vertically over the strings never touching the body so not worried about it.
Keeping it naked.

 

[spiritbass]

With all that said, my question is this: what makes the NG-2 sound the way it does compared to my AB-1? Is it the Maple neck/fretboard? Side-by-side pickup placement? The DarkGlass Tone Capsule? Put another way, is there anything I should be changing in my order to make my new AB-1 sound more like an NG-2?

I think the most important factor would be pickup placement. If you go 3X, you'll get closer the the NG-2 tones. I'd have a DG pre installed also...

 

[Waltsdog]

With all that said, my question is this: what makes the NG-2 sound the way it does compared to my AB-1? Is it the Maple neck/fretboard? Side-by-side pickup placement? The DarkGlass Tone Capsule? Put another way, is there anything I should be changing in my order to make my new AB-1 sound more like an NG-2?

I think the most important factor would be pickup placement. If you go 3X, you'll get closer the the NG-2 tones. I'd have a DG pre installed also...

Spiritbass is right on here, definitely consider adding the 3x option (with the 3x switch and not the D Bird switch) and preamp to your build if you prefer the sound of the active NG over the AB.

 

[Bassheart365]

I realize that this isn't a completely 'scientific' question and there's likely no firm answer to it, but it's a fairly important one for me to consider, as I've got a pricey bass on order and the window to make changes is going to close at some point.

I currently own an NG-2 (all stock) and an AB-1 (passive, Wenge neck and fretboard) both with nickel Dingwall strings and both awesome in their own right. I've ordered a spiffy AB-1 with a Maple neck and Ziricote fingerboard. It's also passive. My issue is that I so much prefer the sound of the NG-2 that I no longer use the AB-1 at all. I only use the 'both pickups in series' setting. This is my perfect tone and, while the AB-1 sounds great, it just can't produce a tone that I like anywhere near as much. Complicating things further is the fact that I ergonomically prefer the AB-1, with it's unfinished and thinner neck and more comfortable pickup placement.

With all that said, my question is this: what makes the NG-2 sound the way it does compared to my AB-1? Is it the Maple neck/fretboard? Side-by-side pickup placement? The DarkGlass Tone Capsule? Put another way, is there anything I should be changing in my order to make my new AB-1 sound more like an NG-2?

I owned an AB II for awhile. And I currently own a NG2 and NG3, and also owned a Z3. I sold my AB as soon as I started playing my NG2. I think it has to do with the way the neck is connected to the body vs. the AB. The neck "pocket" is longer on the NG (and Z) models compared to the ABs. Also, the Darkglass tone capsule might have something to do with it. Anyway, I never bonded with the AB model for some reason.

 

[johnsonabq]

With all that said, my question is this: what makes the NG-2 sound the way it does compared to my AB-1? Is it the Maple neck/fretboard? Side-by-side pickup placement? The DarkGlass Tone Capsule? Put another way, is there anything I should be changing in my order to make my new AB-1 sound more like an NG-2?

Yeah, my two cents is to get the 3X w/ Tone capsule. Include active/passive option and also the 3 series/parallel switches.
That should give you what you have with the NG, plus a whole lot more.
IMHO YMMV

 

[johnsonabq]

Yeah, my two cents is to get the 3X w/ Tone capsule. Include active/passive option and also the 3 series/parallel switches.
That should give you what you have with the NG, plus a whole lot more.
IMHO YMMV

PS... You may want to consider a maple fingerboard also. It's been my experience that of all the fingerboard options, the maple (especially BEM) has the most distinct tone. There's a certain high mid component to it.

 

[FredeRICK]

You could probably get pretty close putting a Darkglass pedal right after the passive bass too.

This is an intriguing idea. I might try picking one up now and seeing how it affects my tone.

 

[FredeRICK]

You will be able to get the same NG2 tones out of the new AB if you put two (in same position as on NG2) or three pickups (with 3X switch) into it and put the Darkglass preamp in it. I would also suggest going with the FD3 pickups instead of the FDVs. Of all the physical aspects of the instrument that determine your tone, my feeling is that the pickup placement, string type and condition, and pickup construction, then preamp if present, are the most influential factors, in descending order of importance as listed. After those, again in descending order of importance in my personal opinion, which will be argued by many, the next set of factors include neck wood, then body wood, then fingerboard wood. Every single component of the instrument makes some contribution to the sound, but those are the top seven in my opinion. Of course there are huge other factors that also contribute greatly, such as where on the string you pluck, how you pluck, how you mute, and of course your amp and cabinet and everything else in the signal chain. But all that stuff is out of scope for this conversation, because we are simply talking about making bass number two sound like bass number one.

I think the most important factor would be pickup placement. If you go 3X, you'll get closer the the NG-2 tones. I'd have a DG pre installed also...

Spiritbass is right on here, definitely consider adding the 3x option (with the 3x switch and not the D Bird switch) and preamp to your build if you prefer the sound of the active NG over the AB.

I owned an AB II for awhile. And I currently own a NG2 and NG3, and also owned a Z3. I sold my AB as soon as I started playing my NG2. I think it has to do with the way the neck is connected to the body vs. the AB. The neck "pocket" is longer on the NG (and Z) models compared to the ABs. Also, the Darkglass tone capsule might have something to do with it. Anyway, I never bonded with the AB model for some reason.

Yeah, my two cents is to get the 3X w/ Tone capsule. Include active/passive option and also the 3 series/parallel switches.
That should give you what you have with the NG, plus a whole lot more.
IMHO YMMV

Thanks for the feedback--it's pretty much what I expected (and what I feared!) I don't mind springing for the Tone Capsule, but I was hoping to avoid adding (or moving) a pickup, due to ergonomic reasons. In the end, tone is king, so it looks like I'll be making some changes.

 

[AB Nate]

I realize that this isn't a completely 'scientific' question and there's likely no firm answer to it, but it's a fairly important one for me to consider, as I've got a pricey bass on order and the window to make changes is going to close at some point.

I currently own an NG-2 (all stock) and an AB-1 (passive, Wenge neck and fretboard) both with nickel Dingwall strings and both awesome in their own right. I've ordered a spiffy AB-1 with a Maple neck and Ziricote fingerboard. It's also passive. My issue is that I so much prefer the sound of the NG-2 that I no longer use the AB-1 at all. I only use the 'both pickups in series' setting. This is my perfect tone and, while the AB-1 sounds great, it just can't produce a tone that I like anywhere near as much. Complicating things further is the fact that I ergonomically prefer the AB-1, with it's unfinished and thinner neck and more comfortable pickup placement.

With all that said, my question is this: what makes the NG-2 sound the way it does compared to my AB-1? Is it the Maple neck/fretboard? Side-by-side pickup placement? The DarkGlass Tone Capsule? Put another way, is there anything I should be changing in my order to make my new AB-1 sound more like an NG-2?

This said, I’m curious if you are comparing apples to apples. Are you comparing the NG in passive to the AB or the NG with the DG active. If so even flat it changes your base tone in a major way IMO.

Also,
What are the body woods of your new build and your current Ab?

NGs are alder.

Are your pick up heights the same from one to another bass?

From my experience you will find Zirocote will change your sound a fair amount compared to the maple fretboard. As Jeff mentioned. Maple adds that pronouncement and although zirocote is magic too. It’s different magic.

A quick story.
I just had an NG3 that has amazing tone..... I actually questioned if it was better then any of my Canadian made dingwalls and I was actually ready to accept it as fact if so. I mean it has the newest of the new designs built into it so it’s entirely possible and fair.
I came to the conclusion it is not better sounding. It is different.
I’ve got 3 remaining VERY different Dingwall beasts and they all shine differently. A new opportunity has presented itself to me recently and I tried a jazz fusion band out. I took my jazz to the band audition. It was perfect.

I’ve been practicing at home and opted for a Z...... it was wrong.
I gravitate to the sound of the Z more so but not in this situation. It sounded like I was trying to cage a beast. It wanted to be let loose where as the jazz just slide right in like it was at home.

Point being, that if the NG is what works for your needs sound wise or even it’s just what you like to hear more... then I would probably spec that new bass as close to it as possible.

If your good with understanding that this new beauty your gonna have made is gonna open its own flavored can of whoop azz then spec it how you want. Just don’t expect it to sound NG2 like and don’t hate it if it doesn’t. It’s also gonna have the newest of the new in it and is going to be insane. You truly cannot go wrong with most any options selected.

That said if you really love the NG I’d think it would be wise to put in the DG.

One setting I’m eager to try on my new build with be bridge/ middle in parallel ( d bird switch) but with both pick ups switched to series w/ the 3x toggled.

My electronics will be as such.

3x FD3 pups
D bird switch
DGTC
3x switch’s

Has anyone else played with switches/ toggles on the d bird switching?
I’m curious to hear

 

[xnewyorka]

Thanks for the feedback--it's pretty much what I expected (and what I feared!) I don't mind springing for the Tone Capsule, but I was hoping to avoid adding (or moving) a pickup, due to ergonomic reasons. In the end, tone is king, so it looks like I'll be making some changes.

Is your issue that the neck pickup gets in your way? If so, can you just have only the bridge and metal pickups in your AB and no neck pickup?