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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
Had my Combustion about four weeks now & WOW it has a sound 'to live for'. This is the sound I've been looking for. Photos to follow.
I am, though, intrigued by the series/parallel comments. So I want to experiment, if I understand correctly the four way switch selects, the bridge solo & neck solo in parallel, bridge with neck parallel & finally, bridge with
neck in series(which I prefer).
Is it possible to re wire it so that in the solo position both pups are in series ? But how would that then affect
it when selecting the bridge with neck position (already in series) ?
Would be grateful for some guidance here.
I am, though, intrigued by the series/parallel comments. So I want to experiment, if I understand correctly the four way switch selects, the bridge solo & neck solo in parallel, bridge with neck parallel & finally, bridge with
neck in series(which I prefer).
Is it possible to re wire it so that in the solo position both pups are in series ? But how would that then affect
it when selecting the bridge with neck position (already in series) ?
Would be grateful for some guidance here.
Series parallax can refer either to how the pickups are wired together or how the coils in a single pickup are wired against themselves. Your rotary switch does the first, almost all conversation here is about the second.
It is my understanding that you can hardwire the pups to be in series very easily or you can add switches for the options.
The pick up wiring of the coils is it’s own thing.
The pick ups (externally)being wired is separate in the point that you can run them via the pick up selector in series or parallel ( or individually) which means that N/B when ran together can be ran :
parallel(=)
or series(- -).
So in my brain that means that the pick up signal runs either side x side(parallel) OR 1 through the other (series) in a straight line if that makes sense.
The pick ups apply the same engineering but internally and individually.
in simple terms, having an individual pickup internally wired in parallel gives you a flatter, wider frequency response. (This setting is more natural and true to the fundamental and set of overtones that the string is producing.) Wiring it in series gives a slightly narrower frequency response, so the perceived volume is louder because energy is moved from the extreme highs and lows in to the middle, creating a more forward mid-range sound. The trade-off is a slight loss of high-frequency overtones, in exchange for more pronounced mids.
To hard-wire one of your pickups in series, the green and black leads need to be disconnected from the switch assembly and soldered together (and insulated).
It would be a great bass to drop a pre into. It would be a great bass to not drop a pre into as well.
The most challenging part was removing the cavity cover. Mine fits quite snugly. But seriously, you need a very small straight-blade driver to loosen the screws that connect the mysterious green and black tone conductors to the terminal block on the selector switch printed circuit board. No mystery yet.
Heat soldering iron, twist tips of green & black conductors together, apply heat & solder, let cool, insulate (I used snazzy red plastic electric tape on mine). Put the cover back on and play the frets off of it. 
A bent paperclip inserted into one of the screwholes like a little hook is probably the safest way to avoid any finish damages removing the plate.The most challenging part was removing the cavity cover. Mine fits quite snugly. But seriously, you need a very small straight-blade driver to loosen the screws that connect the mysterious green and black tone conductors to the terminal block on the selector switch printed circuit board. No mystery yet.
I’ve seen basses where it looked like someone took a butter knife to the outside edge of the plate and pried it open. So sad.
Oh?!? Is someone saving up?
Ugh, trying to...you know how it is though, life has a way of throwing up roadblocks.
Lot of hurdles with this one too, given it's in the States and I'd have to get it here. So, nothing set in stone, but John has been pretty amazing.
The Beat Buddy has more to it than I expected. I can put the SD card right in my iMac for updates and adding drum kits, songs, and other stuff. Plus, with the card in the Mac, I can use the Beat Buddy manager as a virtual machine. Very cool for practice. I just need another card to keep in my Mac. Wipe out or lose the card? No problem, download the backup content from Singular Sound's website.
The sobriety function is spot on. Drummer speeds up, slows down, unpredictable fills and misses coming back on the one. I know this guy, and his brethren in their multitudes.
For a computer challenged guy, this has gone pretty smoothly.
Next weekend's goal is figuring out the looper on the Pod 500X. The Beat Buddy might be able to midi with the Pod for locked up beats and looping. We shall see...
The sobriety function is spot on. Drummer speeds up, slows down, unpredictable fills and misses coming back on the one. I know this guy, and his brethren in their multitudes.
For a computer challenged guy, this has gone pretty smoothly.
Next weekend's goal is figuring out the looper on the Pod 500X. The Beat Buddy might be able to midi with the Pod for locked up beats and looping. We shall see...
You know what would be handy would be to just glue a magnet to the inside of the cavity cover and the next you could just use a strong magnet on the outside to pull the cover up.
Would putting a magnet in there cause any interference?
