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Dingwall Owners Club

I'm curious what the six way switch I'm hearing about offers in pickup combinations. Those of you who have them (or are getting them), what config did you settle on?
I chose:
1) B
2) BM Series
3) M
4) BN Parallel
5) MN Series
6) N
Keep in mind that due to the limitations with wiring it two are going to have to be in common. i.e. 4 & 5 in my example. Having tried this setup and it's 500+ cominations I was going to go back and wire the all three option but since my D-bird landed Friday, I've been quite busy. :thumbsup::)
PS I've been favoring N & MN Series.
Edit: that's a passive tone stack with volume on top.
IMG959826.jpg
 
I don’t have series/parallel switches so they factor in for me. I have wired a p tone parallel by accident and it didn’t sound good solo.
What I want is a series P sound and the bridge/middle series sound. You can’t have both with the p tone in the middle position, so it’s in the neck spot. With only a 4 way switch you have to compromise on the options and those are my favourites.

If you had the switches, put the ptone in the middle and ran it in series with the bridge it would overpower the bridge pickup and wouldn’t be the same sound as running 2 fd3s, you’d get something closer to a pj than a beefy music man sound.

That's why I run middle parallel and bridge series for better balance.

So far, I like the SJ5XXX with s/p switches over the 6 way rotary option, it is my Perfect.
 
My Z3 has s/p switches and I usually keep them set to series. Just giving thought to replacing the neck pup with the p-tone. I've been very happy with the Z, but then I think "what if?". I really like my SuperP5, but I'd like to make my Z the one bass I use with my band. Plus it has a superior B string IMHO. BTW, I have FDV pickups in the Z and most of the time I'm soloing the neck pup for it's P-esque tone.

I tried a P-Tone in the neck position of the NG3...and didn't like it as much as the FD-3. ;)
 
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Spent part of yesterday re-setting up the fretless combustion. I did a impromptu band rehearsal with it the other night and realized that the intonation was not only not quite right on a couple strings but that the whole thing was intonated behind the fretlines to varying degrees...while I play right up on the lines.

I had been a bit leery of doing it myself, even though I'm more than competent at doing setups, intonation, relief and all the other stuff...because it was fretless...but after busting out a new set of strings and spending some time with it, I feel 100% better about where it's at. That makes sense to me because of course no one will 'finger' notes the same way as anyone else. It now sounds much more harmonious and 'in tune' when playing.

Hopefully new pickguards in the next week or so. I also removed the partially extant gold text from the EMG style pickup shells. They'd mostly worn off well before I had the bass and the shells were pretty scratched up...so I gave them a fine sanding and will to a little more in the future.
 
Spent part of yesterday re-setting up the fretless combustion. I did a impromptu band rehearsal with it the other night and realized that the intonation was not only not quite right on a couple strings but that the whole thing was intonated behind the fretlines to varying degrees...while I play right up on the lines.

I had been a bit leery of doing it myself, even though I'm more than competent at doing setups, intonation, relief and all the other stuff...because it was fretless...but after busting out a new set of strings and spending some time with it, I feel 100% better about where it's at. That makes sense to me because of course no one will 'finger' notes the same way as anyone else. It now sounds much more harmonious and 'in tune' when playing.

Hopefully new pickguards in the next week or so. I also removed the partially extant gold text from the EMG style pickup shells. They'd mostly worn off well before I had the bass and the shells were pretty scratched up...so I gave them a fine sanding and will to a little more in the future.

Can you adjust the intonation on a Combustion bridge? I thought they were set, like the Canadian models. You play fretless with your ears anyway, ha ha.
 
Can you adjust the intonation on a Combustion bridge? I thought they were set, like the Canadian models. You play fretless with your ears anyway, ha ha.

All Dingwall bridges are adjustable from the earliest until now.

...and most people play fretless with both eyes and ears. That's how I could tell it wasn't quite right. ;) Fretless isn't just sliding around and if you're landing discrete notes you need to know exactly where they are.
 
Standard D-Bird? Or Canadian D-Bird?
A minty fresh new to me Canadian. Setup from the factory as BEAD but I put on EADG (no problem) and this thing "sings". I frickin love this passive sound. It has 'trumped' a few others. It may actually cause my newly modified NG3 to take a back seat. Go Canada or Go Home! :woot:

I'm a Spector convert and in that camp it's easy to stay in the Euro range with a few mods. But the difference here from the NG2/3 to the D-bird (only canadian I've tried) is night and day. Another Spector convert told me the same thing when he first tried the Z3. And he's frickin abso-frickin-lutely correct!
YMMV, yadda yadda.. ;)
 
Yep they have a spring and screw like most other bridges
View attachment 3319418
You can adjust the Canadian ones too, they aren’t set, just a bit more tricky to adjust.
I wish the SJ/ABZ bridges came with screws, too. It a lot easier to adjust intonation that way, in my opinion, of course
 
All Dingwall bridges are adjustable from the earliest until now.

...and most people play fretless with both eyes and ears. That's how I could tell it wasn't quite right. ;) Fretless isn't just sliding around and if you're landing discrete notes you need to know exactly where they are.

Well I'll be darned, I never realize the two small set screws are there nor did I notice the movable track for the saddles. I just thought they couldn't move since there was no spring.

I don't think most long time fretless players would agree with that. The eyes are great when you are starting out but I think it is mostly muscle memory and ears. The dots on my board are mostly for show, especially over the 12th fret. Maybe that is just me though.
 
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A minty fresh new to me Canadian. Setup from the factory as BEAD but I put on EADG (no problem) and this thing "sings". I frickin love this passive sound. It has 'trumped' a few others. It may actually cause my newly modified NG3 to take a back seat. Go Canada or Go Home! :woot:

I'm a Spector convert and in that camp it's easy to stay in the Euro range with a few mods. But the difference here from the NG2/3 to the D-bird (only canadian I've tried) is night and day. Another Spector convert told me the same thing when he first tried the Z3. And he's frickin abso-frickin-lutely correct!
YMMV, yadda yadda.. ;)
It is really easy, once one has played one of the Canadian Dingwalls, to see the meticulous work they represent. However, in my view, at their individual price points they each demonstrate the value at their individual price point; the NG series represents the same value at it’s price point that the individual Canadian basses do at theirs.
 
Talk to me, Dingwall sisters and brethren.

I've been contemplating a custom order. Although my ABHS currently has (no pun intended) all bases covered, I have recently again started longing for the simplicity of the Super P. One pickup and a tone control. I've always been a P-bass person at heart, ever since being inspired by Steve Harris of Iron Maiden to pick up the bass. The ABHS is quite heavy as well, and while I've never had back issues due to playing, it would be nice with a lighter bass. There's also the fact that I'm ever so much more comfortable with 19 mm spacing than 18 mm. In reality it's not that big of a difference, but it's my personal preference being 6'5" with spider fingers.

I'm thinking Sonic Blue, tort PG and maple/maple neck/FB. That, or LPB, tort and maple/Pau Ferro neck/FB. Possibly MHS on either option.
sp4-pj-supersonic-blue-wbw-maple-maple-e.jpg

sp-5-pj-lake-placid-blue-tort-maple-pau-ferro-matching-head-e-1.jpg


I'm leaning more towards the first option. I love pastel colors and blue basses. What I am more unsure of, is whether or not it should be a 4- or 5-string. A 4-string would be a complement to my ABHS, whereas the 5-string would likely replace it. I could compromise and go with a wenge/wenge neck/FB on the 5.

I'd love some advice, here!
 

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