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Dingwall Owners Club

Here is a soundclip of the neck pickup in my afterburner 2, the pickup is a FD-1. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The recording is me playing with an idea straight into the recording interface in passive mode, the bass has no tone control so I suppose it is flat.

What do you all think, is the pickup in wired in series or parallell? I think it is in parallell.
It's hard to tell with the strings being a bit old, but it sounds to me like parallel. It has the extended treble character often found in parallel operation, compared to the slightly darker character in series.
 
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Here is a soundclip of the neck pickup in my afterburner 2, the pickup is a FD-1. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The recording is me playing with an idea straight into the recording interface in passive mode, the bass has no tone control so I suppose it is flat.

What do you all think, is the pickup in wired in series or parallell? I think it is in parallell.
I would bet $100 that is parallel.
 
I watch the classifieds here on TB and craigslist, Reverb, and when a used Dingwall pops up at a good price: I’ve made my choice.

A few months back, I hesitated on a four string AB-1, flamed maple, in a transparent blue finish, for $1500.ish. A ridiculously good deal. 24 hours later it was gone. Somebody did very well. It was a beauty and I love blue flame finishes.

My “luck of the draw” methods have brought AB’s in five and six strings, Super series fours and fives, both Super J,s PJ,s and the current Super P four string.

Every one recouped my investment when I sold. They were all excellent basses. The six strings are in a class by themselves.

I haven’t tried the Z, or Sklar, or the AB2. Mostly because the Z tend to run over 9lb, and the AB2’s are more rare and expensive. I haven’t tried the imports, but I’m open to the idea.

At this point, I’m only looking at four strings, and I want it to be under 8 lb. The last NG four string I enquired about weighed 9. So, I’m probably looking for an AB1 or ABz.

I don’t get hung up on specs or color, I know it’ll be a great bass. I’ve learned that my preferences are: four strings, (19mm string spacing) light weight, passive, and a P tone pup. If it doesn’t have a Ptone, I’ll put one in. I can go either way with the scale length. If it already has a pre amp, that’s cool too.

Keeping your eyes peeled, and acting quickly can get you a used Canadian model for the price of a new import. I’ve never bought a new bass, but that’s just how I roll. There’s no way I could wait over a year for a bass. And any day could be a new bass day.
 
Keeping your eyes peeled, and acting quickly can get you a used Canadian model for the price of a new import. I’ve never bought a new bass, but that’s just how I roll. There’s no way I could wait over a year for a bass. And any day could be a new bass day.
I wholeheartedly agree. I'm always looking here, on Reverb, but also on Ebay and Facebook for used Canadian Dingwalls. A few months ago I saw a 2005 bubinga/wenge ABII in mint condition that was listed on Ebay for less than the price of a new NG3 5 string. I jump on it. It is now my main bass. (Pictured in my avitar.) Then I purchased one of the first NG3 6 strings available. Fantastic bass. But a week later I saw a mint 2016 bubinga ABHS 6 string posted on for sale in the Dingwall Owners Facebook group, also for less than the price of a new NG3 5 string. I purchased it immediately and then sold my NG3 6 string for what I paid for it. Not taking anything away from the NG/Combustion models. I own a NG2 and love it. But if I find a good deal on a used Canadian model, it wins out. Having said all that, the most satisfying purchases I have made have been new custom order Dingwalls (a Z3 and SJ5). Unfortunately financial circumstances forced me to sell both. And for less than I paid for them.
 
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But if I find a good deal on a used Canadian model, it wins out.
So this is the question i am asking. I know why I want a dingwall. it isn't because of tone, but i want the dingwall i own to have a good one. Why do the Canadian ones win out? Different wood, higher mass bridge pieces, but what else?

I've read the site backwards and forwards. they don't talk a lot about what makes each unique. My eyes can pick out slightly different PUP configurations between AB1 and ABZ, and then the NG2/3 has them positioned for the sweet spot. So, since you've had a few, can you tell me what your perceived differences are between them? Why canadian? etc? What about that DBird? how different is it?

it sounds like my competition is stacked for getting a used one. Likely, this will be my last bass purchase (famous last words), so I'm thinking of new, or at least a used in a new condition.

thank you in advance!
 
Wish I could help, but I’ve never seen an import. The d bird is too sexy for me. And there is the Canadian Dbird, used one asking $4k, and the import Dbird standard, new around $1800.

The Super series are all Canadian, medium scale and 19mm. Fours and fives only. I really like the Super series. The Super P is very light, under 8 pounds. Very compact and comfortable to play. The D & G strings are super punchy and fat sounding. To me, it feels like a short scale.

I guess I also have a favorite body style with the AB’s. Something about the clean curve from upper to lower bout is sweet. And the balance is perfect.

I have full confidence in anything that comes out of the Dingwall shop, and I’m comfortable buying sight unseen. Every used Dingwall has been pristine. I guess Dingwall owners are competent bass owners. And great sellers.

You pretty much can’t go wrong. Buy a used Dingwall at a good price, and you’ll be able to back out if, for some reason, it doesn’t suit you.
 
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It's hard to tell with the strings being a bit old, but it sounds to me like parallel. It has the extended treble character often found in parallel operation, compared to the slightly darker character in series.

I would bet $100 that is parallel.

Agree with both of these. Sounds like parallel to me, a little bit polite in the mids with some reach above and below. I'd always heard that the FD1's were a bit brighter than the 3's and I get a bit of that here, though just on my MBP speakers.
 
So this is the question i am asking. I know why I want a dingwall. it isn't because of tone, but i want the dingwall i own to have a good one. Why do the Canadian ones win out? Different wood, higher mass bridge pieces, but what else?

I've read the site backwards and forwards. they don't talk a lot about what makes each unique. My eyes can pick out slightly different PUP configurations between AB1 and ABZ, and then the NG2/3 has them positioned for the sweet spot. So, since you've had a few, can you tell me what your perceived differences are between them? Why canadian? etc? What about that DBird? how different is it?

it sounds like my competition is stacked for getting a used one. Likely, this will be my last bass purchase (famous last words), so I'm thinking of new, or at least a used in a new condition.

thank you in advance!
Well, I'm sitting next to my NG2, which I just finished practicing some tunes on. But in about an hour I'm going to a gig with my AB II 5 string. My AB II has better intrinsic tone to my ears, due in part to the denser woods (bubinga and wenge), as opposed to alder and maple (NG). Woods are important to me. Maybe not to you though. So there is that. The AB also has a slightly thinner and flatter neck, which I find easier to play. And as previously mentioned, the higher mass bridge makes a difference in terms of sustain and punch IMO. And frankly, I love the look and feel of a natural finish bass as opposed to a painted one. The fit and finish on the Canadian models is second to none. So that's about it. Oh, and most long scale Canadian models have a strap lock insert on the back of the bass which pulls the neck in closer to reduce the reach. You can't go wrong with either. But I treasure my Canadian models and they are my go-to basses for playing gigs.
 
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So this is the question i am asking. I know why I want a dingwall. it isn't because of tone, but i want the dingwall i own to have a good one. Why do the Canadian ones win out? Different wood, higher mass bridge pieces, but what else?

I've read the site backwards and forwards. they don't talk a lot about what makes each unique. My eyes can pick out slightly different PUP configurations between AB1 and ABZ, and then the NG2/3 has them positioned for the sweet spot. So, since you've had a few, can you tell me what your perceived differences are between them? Why canadian? etc? What about that DBird? how different is it?

it sounds like my competition is stacked for getting a used one. Likely, this will be my last bass purchase (famous last words), so I'm thinking of new, or at least a used in a new condition.

thank you in advance!

Fit and finish, while good on the import models is fantastic on the Canadians. I, too, prefer the neck on any of the Canadians I've played. I agree they maintain their value. I like the AB2s, which are chambered as well. I like the look of the custom ones with exotic tops, which might be a little extra, but you can still get some really nice ones (with the older non-rounded pickups) for $2500-3000. I did buy an import to mess with the new rounded pickups (FD3 vs FDV and vs the yet to try P-Tone), but so far I don't play it very often as the Canadian models always win out.
 
It's hard to tell with the strings being a bit old, but it sounds to me like parallel. It has the extended treble character often found in parallel operation, compared to the slightly darker character in series.

I would bet $100 that is parallel.

Agree with both of these. Sounds like parallel to me, a little bit polite in the mids with some reach above and below. I'd always heard that the FD1's were a bit brighter than the 3's and I get a bit of that here, though just on my MBP speakers.

Well there we have it, I thought that the bass has a paralell sound to it becuase it is a very polite, bright and clean sounding bass, but I don´t have the experience to be fully confident in my ears. All this talk about fretless made me think that such a bass would make a marvelous fretless, an expensive and thought opinion at home.

I have lowered the pickup alot which gives a less boomy and more detailed/rich sound, at the moment it is neck pickup soloed I fancy the most.
 
Resting after a private gig tonight. @TinyE My bubinga topped AB II. As far as I'm concerned it's a Canadian masterpiece.
IMG_20190406_235030_324.jpg
 
Well there we have it, I thought that the bass has a paralell sound to it becuase it is a very polite, bright and clean sounding bass, but I don´t have the experience to be fully confident in my ears. All this talk about fretless made me think that such a bass would make a marvelous fretless, an expensive and thought opinion at home.

I have lowered the pickup alot which gives a less boomy and more detailed/rich sound, at the moment it is neck pickup soloed I fancy the most.
Re. lowering the pickups a lot, has worked for me too (Combustion). I had been lowering them bit by bit for 4 months now. The bridge pup is flush with the pick guard & the neck pup is about an 1/8th of an inch higher.
Truly much more musical & less burpy.
 
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Well there we have it, I thought that the bass has a paralell sound to it becuase it is a very polite, bright and clean sounding bass, but I don´t have the experience to be fully confident in my ears. All this talk about fretless made me think that such a bass would make a marvelous fretless, an expensive and thought opinion at home.

I have lowered the pickup alot which gives a less boomy and more detailed/rich sound, at the moment it is neck pickup soloed I fancy the most.
Yes, in the Fretless configuration, they are a dream come true. Ask me how I know!
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BUILD_SHEET.jpg
 
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