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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
Just for thoroughness, I have to ask: Did you lower the action by lowering the saddles, or did you first tighten the truss rod to get the minimum tolerable relief based on your playing style, and only THEN start touching the saddles?I did lower the action on the bass when I got it, to as low as I could get it without getting constant clanking due to my inconsistent fingerstyle technique. That definitely eased up the strain on my fretting hand, but I find it's my plucking hand which takes the brunt of the abuse from high tension strings. Maybe it's a sign that I should put more effort into improving my technique...
Maybe it's a sign that I should put more effort into improving my technique...
Try turning up the amp and use a lighter touch. Also,
johnsonabq
Watch out where the huskies go...
Yeah, they come with nickel. I picked up a four pack of SS from Fret Nation as that's my preference, so I'll change my strings as soon as the D-bird arrives.
I did lower the action on the bass when I got it, to as low as I could get it without getting constant clanking due to my inconsistent fingerstyle technique. That definitely eased up the strain on my fretting hand, but I find it's my plucking hand which takes the brunt of the abuse from high tension strings. Maybe it's a sign that I should put more effort into improving my technique...
My combustion and dbird rattle all over the place. They are tuned Bb and Eb with standard strings which gets the tension/ compliance where I like it. I have the action lower than factory so that with the lower tension gives you some (read a fair bit) rattling when played with medium gusto and a pick.
You can’t hear it through the amp so it’s all good, I don’t play those ones unplugged so it’s no issue for me.
I’ve grown to accept that my setup on those is gonna sound great through and amp but not great unplugged.
I think I'll be getting some of that snow here tomorrow...
I followed along with Dingwalls set up video on Youtube when I got the bass. I don't have the tools (or picks) to do measurements as accurate as he did at the shop, but my eyeball lead me to believe that the action was fine at the lower frets, and that a truss rod adjustment would not be necessary. Accordingly, all my adjustments came at the saddles which are slightly above as low as they can go. When I took them as low as they could go, I got a lot of clank on the lower strings.
I will review Neely's video on right hand technique. I watched his left hand one a few months ago, and his suggestions to my left hand technique came quite naturally (though I still tend to fret hard when I start to get tired).
I followed along with Dingwalls set up video on Youtube when I got the bass. I don't have the tools (or picks) to do measurements as accurate as he did at the shop, but my eyeball lead me to believe that the action was fine at the lower frets, and that a truss rod adjustment would not be necessary. Accordingly, all my adjustments came at the saddles which are slightly above as low as they can go. When I took them as low as they could go, I got a lot of clank on the lower strings.
I will review Neely's video on right hand technique. I watched his left hand one a few months ago, and his suggestions to my left hand technique came quite naturally (though I still tend to fret hard when I start to get tired).
Thanks for the reply and confirming it'll come with Nickel's.
Back to the waiting-game
Anyone tried a Nordymute on an early Combustion? I'm contemplating ordering one, but see I only have about 2cm of clearance between the bridge pickup and the bridge on the G.
Peter Lufrano
Blues. and nothing but the Blues.
Hey Dingfans,
May seem like a silly question, but I’ll ask it anyway
On my SJ5 I need to adjust intonation slightly on the top G string. Is there a hidden adjustment screw or set screw?
I’m old and have suspect eyesight, but I am not seeing either of them......
Thanx as always in advance!
May seem like a silly question, but I’ll ask it anyway
On my SJ5 I need to adjust intonation slightly on the top G string. Is there a hidden adjustment screw or set screw?
I’m old and have suspect eyesight, but I am not seeing either of them......
Thanx as always in advance!
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
Send it to me and I’ll sort it out for you.Hey Dingfans,
May seem like a silly question, but I’ll ask it anyway
On my SJ5 I need to adjust intonation slightly on the top G string. Is there a hidden adjustment screw or set screw?
I’m old and have suspect eyesight, but I am not seeing either of them......
Thanx as always in advance!
Hey Dingfans,
May seem like a silly question, but I’ll ask it anyway
On my SJ5 I need to adjust intonation slightly on the top G string. Is there a hidden adjustment screw or set screw?
I’m old and have suspect eyesight, but I am not seeing either of them......
Thanx as always in advance!
There are two recessed hex-head 'screws' on each saddle which must be loosened to allow it to move. After you have the saddle re-positioned for correct intonation, tighten the screws again and you're done.
Hey Dingfans,
May seem like a silly question, but I’ll ask it anyway
On my SJ5 I need to adjust intonation slightly on the top G string. Is there a hidden adjustment screw or set screw?
I’m old and have suspect eyesight, but I am not seeing either of them......
Thanx as always in advance!
I believe you loosen the 2 recessed Allen screws in the square bridge piece to slide it back and forth. It’s been a while and mine is in its case all the way in the other room.
There are two recessed hex-head 'screws' on each saddle which must be loosened to allow it to move. After you have the saddle re-positioned for correct intonation, tighten the screws again and you're done.
Um hey!!! You just said what I just said....only first
Peter Lufrano
Blues. and nothing but the Blues.
They are tiny, the smallest Allen wrench. There are two, catty corner from each other on top of the square block that slides in the bridge channel.
Just loosen a bit, and move the block until intonation is on, then re-tighten. This does not affect saddle height.
If the string is too high with the saddle screws all the way down, (happens sometimes with non tapered strings) the saddle screw is bottoming out on the bridge body. The saddle screws are available at most well stocked hardware stores. They are stainless cap heads. You can get shorter screws that will let you lower the string. Less than $1 each.
Just loosen a bit, and move the block until intonation is on, then re-tighten. This does not affect saddle height.
If the string is too high with the saddle screws all the way down, (happens sometimes with non tapered strings) the saddle screw is bottoming out on the bridge body. The saddle screws are available at most well stocked hardware stores. They are stainless cap heads. You can get shorter screws that will let you lower the string. Less than $1 each.
