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Dingwall Owners Club

Alright, folks, what color would you go for on the Capri Orange SP?

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Parchment?

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Cream?

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Or aged white pearl?

I'm leaning towards parchment because I feel like the color of the bass is already loud and flashy, but I also want to lighten it up a bit... the tort is nice, but I've never loved it with the orange.

Of those, Pearloid would be my choice for the orange.
 
Meeee tooooo. :beaver:

So far Sweetwater hasn't taken my cash dollars, though I've been invoiced for it. Even though I told them to charge it out ahead of arrival, I think their system won't let them. BTW, buying the pair (C4 + Neuro Hub) and asking for some wiggle on pricing from my rep netted me 24$ in additional discount on the two.

I'm looking at the C4 as two things:
-Expansive envelope filter designing tool kit.
-Synth lab with (hopefully) usable programming interface & effects suite.

They both interest me, maybe the envelope filter more than the synth but I could be surprised. And the MIDI implementation will be a factor. I've become woo'ed to the world of one-button multi-effect patch switching across a standard pedal board.

On the Synth side, I know there's a lot of what reads to me as cork-sniffing "nothing can live up to the quality of the FI processor and patch tone"...but there's a whole lot of patch types that I don't really need and I'm not looking to clone specific song-tones like many FI guys need.

...also many of the other pedal synths sound like envelope controlled fart-generators (Hell, even some of the FI tones are like that).

Ah, so you're not looking to replace your FI with it, more compliment it?
Yeah, I've read similar things re FI vs C4 but I get the sense both of them will be quite good in their own way (and also require serious deep diving to create sounds).

And yes, there's definitely nothing like having one button do it all :)
 
Oh. My. Gosh.

A fresh set of La Bella black nylon tapes on my ABZ-5, standard tuning:

  • G-K MB Fusion into AudioKinesis Thunderchild 1x12, horn set flat.
  • EQ at noon, Contour off, Deep and Presence switches off.
I normally have to be careful about string squeak and fret noise with this head/cab combo, even with the treble backed off to 10 o'clock, and the tone control on the bass backed off about a third.

Not with the tapes. It's darker and fuller, especially with the pickup coils in series. Now the amp sounds GREAT with the EQ at noon, and although the strings sounded a bit hollow at first, they quickly bedded in.

Like a fresh set of rounds, they have lots of overtones, but because the upper frequencies are damped out by the string construction, it leaves you with a thick, punchy low end and a terrific midrange growl. I love this combo on all pickup positions. There's still plenty of bite and treble left if I switch the pickup coils to parallel.

A bit of sustain is lost, but only enough to create burp and punch for days. It still has more than enough sustain for slow ballads, with a vocal quality that's similar but not the same as a fretless.

La Bella doesn't list a 5-string set in this scale length, so hats off to Jason at fretnation.com for another terrific custom string package. His turnaround on messages was super-fast, as always- I don't think the man ever sleeps.

The string gauges are .050, .065, .085, .105, and I think the B is a .135. I believe the set is called 750N-40, with a 755N-40 single for the B.

Installation was a breeze, as the nut didn't need any work. I had to push the bridge saddles back a bit to correct the intonation, slacken the truss rod a couple of flats, and raise the action slightly on the G and D strings.


The only caveat, is minor intonation issues above the twelfth fret. In particular, the G goes progressively flatter as you get closer to the 24th fret. This is spoiling my fun on upper-register fills. Totally my fault, as I was pressing Jason for early availability, and he subbed in a longer G. It may have just been a bad one, but Jason is ordering a shorter replacement, in case the intonation issue is caused by too much tape around the string post.

This set should make a great option for people seeking something a little different.
 
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I do as well, but I am not sold on the tone. Specifically the D and G strings. My SJ5 (PJ) is more even across all the strings and I wonder if it's the pickup spacing (the SJ5 P's are about 1/4" closer to the neck and the bridge is in the 70's Jazz position), the pickups (SuperFatty in the bridge) or just the differences in those particular pieces of wood. My SJ5 is an older version with the chambered body as opposed to the newer thin bodies as well, so there's that too, I guess.
I wonder how different (or close) a reverse P-tone sounds compared to a regular FDV or FD3 considering that those are also reverse P-pickups inside the shell
 
I wonder if it's the 70's Jazz position bridge pickup too. I remember reading Ed Friedland saying that his experience was that P/J's sounded better to him when the bridge pickup was in the 70's position. It may be the SuperFatties too. It's the D and G strings that sound thinner. I am just so used to my SJ5 (P/J) that it has become the standard to which I compare all others.
 
I wonder if it's the 70's Jazz position bridge pickup too. I remember reading Ed Friedland saying that his experience was that P/J's sounded better to him when the bridge pickup was in the 70's position. It may be the SuperFatties too. It's the D and G strings that sound thinner. I am just so used to my SJ5 (P/J) that it has become the standard to which I compare all others.
Here are some sound comparisons by Jacob:
 
And are those on the super-long scale basses? I was listening to the different sound clips off the Dingwall site as well, but those are also individual pickups and positions and not mixed and matched together. There are so many different possible configurations and combinations that it would be tough to record them all. You never really know for sure how it will work until you get it on your bass!
 
I've been practicing with my Sklar and then playing the set with my Afterburner 2. A couple times during practice I've noticed that when I play the Sklar, my wrist tends to hurt a little near the end and I never had that with my AB2. I'm wondering what I am doing differently. Gripping the neck too hard? Compensating because it is thinner and I'm trying not to wrap my thumb around? I have the reach reducing pin and it doesn't help so I don't think it is that. In fact, I found I've been playing the long scales long enough that it is actually a distraction. I'm sure a video might help, but curious if anyone has noticed anything when switching between them?
 
I'm doing it!
I'm having Andrew at Knightro build me an "exploder" bass!
Black Limba body, sepele/wenge neck, Bocote fretboard in an oil finish and passive Nordstrand pups.

It's going to be hard to top the Combustion, love the thing and performing again with it in a few minutes, really shines for our praise music.
 
I've been practicing with my Sklar and then playing the set with my Afterburner 2. A couple times during practice I've noticed that when I play the Sklar, my wrist tends to hurt a little near the end and I never had that with my AB2. I'm wondering what I am doing differently. Gripping the neck too hard? Compensating because it is thinner and I'm trying not to wrap my thumb around? I have the reach reducing pin and it doesn't help so I don't think it is that. In fact, I found I've been playing the long scales long enough that it is actually a distraction. I'm sure a video might help, but curious if anyone has noticed anything when switching between them?

What’s this “reach reducing pin” that you speak of?
 
What’s this “reach reducing pin” that you speak of?

Newer Canadian basses (And before that some relatively recent Zs) have a flush-mounted dunlop straplock socket on the back, just next to the battery compartment. If you hook your strap there, vs the base pin ,it moves the nut (and hence fingerboard generally) a bit closer to you.

See here:
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