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Dingwall Owners Club

Unfortunately...No! I wish I had. :) Jule mentioned that my name did come up though! Two of my most favorite artists in the Bass realm in one place, both have gone above and beyond to provide first class support & some really wonderful custom instruments for me, and both I consider friends. Alas, my playing schedule hasn't allowed for NAMM visits though I've been offered entry and hospitality for a handful of shows.

Lots of us Dingwall-Jule Amps players out there...

+1 Two of the best guys, ever! I have a D-Bird and a Monique and I can confirm that they play nicely together! :thumbsup:
 
I believe they turned out to require more manhours than they originally thought, and saved it for the Canadian D-rocs. I've heard of some issues on the D-bird standards.
The two D-Bird standards I possessed had pretty different looking headstock edges. You could tell it was a finnicky paint job. That said, I think it is the coolest headstock ever!
 
How many folks here run with F# tuning on their 5 or 6 string Dingwall? I’m curious if the extra 2 inches over a 35” scale parallel with be in the realm of “you’ve gott’a use this no matter what” territory, or if it’s simply “yeah, there’s some improvement there”.
 
Thanks! I would jump on it, but I need to know if it’s worth it first. I’m not averse to filing the nut, done that on 3 basses now. I just don’t want all that effort for little to no returns over my existing ones.


I’d have to assume you’ll notice a substantial difference but that depends on what basses your comparing it to and all kinds of fun stuff.
Are you saying that you 35” scale basses in F# already and you have a Dingwall but your unsure of changing your Dingwall to F# is worth it?
 
Are you saying that you 35” scale basses in F# already and you have a Dingwall but your unsure of changing your Dingwall to F# is worth it?

Correct, I have one decent 6 string 35” strung F#, another 6 that’s 34” (faulty electronics though), and one 5 string 35” strung even lower to E0. Just curious if it’s night and day difference, or “play that again to let me see” difference.
 
Correct, I have one decent 6 string 35” strung F#, another 6 that’s 34” (faulty electronics though), and one 5 string 35” strung even lower to E0. Just curious if it’s night and day difference, or “play that again to let me see” difference.

have you ever compared the difference of your low B on the Dingwall in the same tuning as your 35” scale basses and notice differences?

I have no experience with the F# but

I can only offer that my 35” Spector NS35XL has a KILLER low B and my Dingwalls have a substantially cleaner more articulate low B

I would thing that the gains would be even more noticeable at the lower tuning.

when I used to run drop A tuning on standard gauge strings there was just no comparison but unfortunately it’s not your exact scenario
 
I've tuned down a 130 B down to F# for fun on an NG3 4 string (36.25" scale) and thought it was usable for how I play. I'm not a fan of super thick strings but I think an appropriately sized string for F# even on a "short" NG would be pretty good. As far as what you'd gain from 36.25" to 37" I would wager its minimal and would depend on the strings and setup.
 
I've tuned down a 130 B down to F# for fun on an NG3 4 string (36.25" scale) and thought it was usable for how I play. I'm not a fan of super thick strings but I think an appropriately sized string for F# even on NG would be pretty good. As far as what you'd gain from 36.25" to 37" I would wager its minimal and would depend on the strings and setup.
 
Over the holidays, my NG3 broke COVID convention and had his slightly more flamboyant younger brother come for a short visit. Here’s a couple family photos in slightly different light:

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It’s long been my desire to compare the DBird switch to the 3x. Particularly the all-on setting to the NB setting. In my BD days (Before Dingwall), my tone was pretty much always a very warm, J-like, tone (still is, maybe 40% of the time), and I was concerned I was missing something by not having an NB option. The comparison was complicated by the difference in strings; older Parsons nickel RCs with the DBird switched bass, brand new Dingwall nickels on the (brand new) 3x switched bass. I didn’t have the sparklemonster for very long, either.

In the end, trying to compensate for the string differences in my head, my personal opinion was that I wasn’t missing anything. I think the all-on setting could get very close to anything I would personally look for out of the NB setting. Therefore, and also because I feel I need to keep the soloed M setting, the DBird switch is the switch for me. I no longer need to pine after the 6 way switch that unleashes every conceivable BMN combination. Not that I’d refuse one, but it’s no longer in the upper portion of my musical to-do list.

This is just my opinion, FWIW. I’ve played live quite frequently for many, many years (contemporary churches, almost solely), but am by no means a pro. And, I’ve only had Dingwalls for a few years now. Anyway, I thought I should chime in, since it looks like the “3x vs DBird switch” conversation emerged again a couple days ago.
 
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Over the holidays, my NG3 broke COVID convention and had his slightly more flamboyant younger brother come for a short visit. Here’s a couple family photos in slightly different light:

View attachment 4139811View attachment 4139809

It’s long been my desire to compare the DBird switch to the 3x. Particularly the all-on setting to the NB setting. In my BD days (Before Dingwall), my tone was pretty much always a very warm, J-like, tone (still is, maybe 40% of the time), and I was concerned I was missing something by not having an NB option. The comparison was complicated by the difference in strings; older Parsons nickel RCs with the DBird switched bass, brand new Dingwall nickels on the (brand new) 3x switched bass. I didn’t have the sparklemonster for very long, either.

In the end, trying to compensate for the string differences in my head, my personal opinion was that I wasn’t missing anything. I think the all-on setting could get very close to anything I would personally look for out of the NB setting. Therefore, and also because I feel I need to keep the soloed M setting, the DBird switch is the switch for me. I no longer need to pine after the 6 way switch that unleashes every conceivable BMN combination. Not that I’d refuse one, but it’s no longer in the upper portion of my musical to-do list.

This is just my opinion, FWIW. I’ve played live quite frequently for many, many years (contemporary churches, almost solely), but am by no means a pro. And, I’ve only had Dingwalls for a few years now. Anyway, I thought I should chime in, since it looks like the “3x vs DBird switch” conversation emerged again a couple days ago.
Nice basses ;)
 
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Over the holidays, my NG3 broke COVID convention and had his slightly more flamboyant younger brother come for a short visit. Here’s a couple family photos in slightly different light:

View attachment 4139811View attachment 4139809

It’s long been my desire to compare the DBird switch to the 3x. Particularly the all-on setting to the NB setting. In my BD days (Before Dingwall), my tone was pretty much always a very warm, J-like, tone (still is, maybe 40% of the time), and I was concerned I was missing something by not having an NB option. The comparison was complicated by the difference in strings; older Parsons nickel RCs with the DBird switched bass, brand new Dingwall nickels on the (brand new) 3x switched bass. I didn’t have the sparklemonster for very long, either.

In the end, trying to compensate for the string differences in my head, my personal opinion was that I wasn’t missing anything. I think the all-on setting could get very close to anything I would personally look for out of the NB setting. Therefore, and also because I feel I need to keep the soloed M setting, the DBird switch is the switch for me. I no longer need to pine after the 6 way switch that unleashes every conceivable BMN combination. Not that I’d refuse one, but it’s no longer in the upper portion of my musical to-do list.

This is just my opinion, FWIW. I’ve played live quite frequently for many, many years (contemporary churches, almost solely), but am by no means a pro. And, I’ve only had Dingwalls for a few years now. Anyway, I thought I should chime in, since it looks like the “3x vs DBird switch” conversation emerged again a couple days ago.
Wow, congrats on the two NGs. Both beautiful instruments.

I have an early NG-3 six and often think I'm missing out on bridge+middle series, so I too have contemplated a 5/6-way switch to make it available. Currently, middle solo is my favorite setting on the bass, "all on" probably the least although I could certainly use it. Any thoughts on that now that you have both switches to compare?
 
Wow, congrats on the two NGs. Both beautiful instruments.

I have an early NG-3 six and often think I'm missing out on bridge+middle series, so I too have contemplated a 5/6-way switch to make it available. Currently, middle solo is my favorite setting on the bass, "all on" probably the least although I could certainly use it. Any thoughts on that now that you have both switches to compare?
The sparklemonster isn’t mine, unfortunately. It was just passing through (via a curb side pickup). Aesthetics aside, I don’t think I could justify keeping two basses that similar. Heck, I don’t even think I’ll be keeping both my NG and my SJ/P for too much longer.
 
After some deliberate and careful consideration, I've decided to get out of the six-string business. I'm putting up my ABZ 6/3 for sale. Love the bass, but I'm just not bonding and flocking to it like I hoped I would. The only bass that gets played less than my 6er is my fretless. If any of yous guys was thinking about getting a 6er, this may be your golden opportunity!

ABZ 6/3(w/standard Dingwall tone "recipe")
-Ash body(Matte Black w/Red Grain)
-3-pc Maple neck w/"Blackout" option
-Wenge fretboard w/Luminlay side dots
-FDVs w/D-Roc switch
-DGTC
-S/P switches
-Hipshot hardware

I'm also selling my NG-3/5. It's all stock w/the D-Roc switch.

I'm gonna list them in the classifieds, but I wanted to give the club first shot. PM me for deets or if you're interested.

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After some deliberate and careful consideration, I've decided to get out of the six-string business. I'm putting up my ABZ 6/3 for sale. Love the bass, but I'm just not bonding and flocking to it like I hoped I would. The only bass that gets played less than my 6er is my fretless. If any of yous guys was thinking about getting a 6er, this may be your golden opportunity!

ABZ 6/3(w/standard Dingwall tone "recipe")
-Ash body(Matte Black w/Red Grain)
-3-pc Maple neck w/"Blackout" option
-Wenge fretboard w/Luminlay side dots
-FDVs w/D-Roc switch
-DGTC
-S/P switches
-Hipshot hardware

I'm also selling my NG-3/5. It's all stock w/the D-Roc switch.

I'm gonna list them in the classifieds, but I wanted to give the club first shot. PM me for deets or if you're interested.

View attachment 4140105 View attachment 4140106 View attachment 4140107 View attachment 4140108 View attachment 4140115 View attachment 4140116

Dingwall fretless? Lets see it...
 
How many folks here run with F# tuning on their 5 or 6 string Dingwall? I’m curious if the extra 2 inches over a 35” scale parallel with be in the realm of “you’ve gott’a use this no matter what” territory, or if it’s simply “yeah, there’s some improvement there”.

If you decide to make the jump, and just want the F# in stainless, I have one up in the classifieds. I chickened out of filing the nut and in my playing I don't think I'd use it as much.
 
So I went to a music store to get an F# setup on my bass.I bought a dingwall 5 string pack with a .170 string for the f# and a replacement nut so I would always be able to change it back to standard tuning.The "tech" tells me 6 days later that this can't be done on these basses or it will ruin the bass. I tell him no it won't, these Bass Guitars are known to be put in F# tuning. He tells me the .170 string will not fit under the headstock saddle and will dig into the wood behind the nut and I will not play correctly, and that the string spacing will be way different from the F# to the B string. My question to everyone in this group is...basically I'm wondering if something special needs to be done to make this work? Another shop did not even want to attempt this for me..is it really that big of a deal switch over to F# tuning? The photo below shows the new nut and how it fits on the neck..notice it is not flush..is that normal when you use a dingwall replacement nut? Any answers would be great! Thank you!
 

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