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Dingwall Owners Club

#42,141
dmac1961 said:
Yep, pretty small cavity in a D Bird.View attachment 4265460
I dig it passive myself.
Click to expand...

Beyond the size of the control rout, you have to contend with the fact that the body is thinner there than many basses. Similar to a Super-P...it just might not have the front-to-back room to fit.
 
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#42,144
seedokebass said:
I've been thinking about it but no clue what I'd go to. I keep thinking I'd want to try a Spector or Aguilar, maybe Sadowsky. Or Warwick, that might be cool.

Low End Lobster's review with an East Preamp was interesting though not exactly my cup of tea over speakers. Might be a different ballgame in person.
Click to expand...

Is there a reason you're looking at an on-board preamp as opposed to just putting a pedal preamp as the first item in the signal chain? Based on what I see inside my control cavity for my d-roc, fitting anything else in would be very difficult.
 
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#42,146
Challanger2 said:
Is there a reason you're looking at an on-board preamp as opposed to just putting a pedal preamp as the first item in the signal chain? Based on what I see inside my control cavity for my d-roc, fitting anything else in would be very difficult.
Click to expand...

I haven't thought too hard and long about it, but that would definitely be an option. That's why I've been considering one of these, just haven't pulled the trigger.

Michalík Designs

After looking around, those pedals may not be available any longer. Shoot.
 
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#42,148
hoopchala said:
Thanks, and apparently I'll have to double down on meditation and mindfulness for another 6 months! Ugh...
Click to expand...
Bare minimum, yeah. If you didn't take a previous build slot, orders are about 18 months, give or take. If you go with someone that has a build slot that you can take, which I suspect is maybe what anton72 did, then it can be quicker. There's a number of dealers out there with build slots you can grab, so it's worth looking around if you're in that kinda rush.
 
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#42,149
hoopchala said:
Thanks, and apparently I'll have to double down on meditation and mindfulness for another 6 months! Ugh...
Click to expand...
To add on to what @Selta already stated; He and I put in our orders at The Bass Shop in Seattle on the same day in November of 2019. Back on 4/21/21 Chad from The Bass Shop let me know that Dingwall gave him an estimate on my Super J of three weeks. I'm no mathematician but that pencils out to tomorrow. Since I haven't heard anything yet I'm guessing it'll be a little longer but regardless I'm currently right at 18 months and it's looking like it'll happen pretty soon. I'd say the 18 month timeline is feeling pretty accurate, at least in my limited Dingwall custom shop ordering experience. @Selta makes a great point about trying to find a shop with a build slot already reserved to cut that time down if possible.
 
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#42,150
AB Nate said:
I think you’d be doing some heavy routing.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's a given.
dmac1961 said:
Yep, pretty small cavity in a D Bird.View attachment 4265460
I dig it passive myself.
Click to expand...
And so I shall use it as such.
-------
I figure any preamp additions will be done by Mo, and only if needed. I have a love/hate thing with passive basses. I like that you can't be fiddling with the tone whenever the urge hits you, but then, I often find myself playing my AB1 and feel it's tone needs a little goose in the midrange. Then it's nice to be able to add some mids "as needed". I am though, convinced my favorite pickups are passive.

Hmmm... I'd like to see a preamp with just a +/- in the 500hz - 800hz. :thumbsup:
 
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#42,153
AB Nate said:
I would guess grounding. Possibly at the jack. I would check to make sure the jack is still assembled as it’s supposed to be and nothing is shorting there.
Does the buzz intensify or change in active mode?
Click to expand...

I finally got back to looking for the source of the buzz in my NG-3. One the ground wires at the output jack was routed in a way that it got pinched when the cable was inserted. It looked like the wire was chafed but not worn through the insulation. I re-routed the wire and all is good. I'll go back and replace that wire or just add some heat shrink or electrical tape depending...

Thanks to everyone for the help.

--jack
 
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#42,154
JackTheRipper said:
I finally got back to looking for the source of the buzz in my NG-3. One the ground wires at the output jack was routed in a way that it got pinched when the cable was inserted. It looked like the wire was chafed but not worn through the insulation. I re-routed the wire and all is good. I'll go back and replace that wire or just add some heat shrink or electrical tape depending...

Thanks to everyone for the help.

--jack
Click to expand...

Great to hear you got it sorted and it was a discoverable issue that didn’t haunt you for too long. With that you could get some of that liquid rubber if it’s chafed in a small spot.

I want to make a, “make sure to check your jack joke”...... but, I won’t do that to ya, .. Jack.

<small cough to clear throat, shakes head at self.... walks away..:rollno:>




 
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#42,155
AB Nate said:
Great to hear you got it sorted and it was a discoverable issue that didn’t haunt you for too long. With that you could get some of that liquid rubber if it’s chafed in a small spot.

I want to make a, “make sure to check your jack joke”...... but, I won’t do that to ya, .. Jack.

<small cough to clear throat, shakes head at self.... walks away..:rollno:>
Click to expand...

:)

I owe you a beer...

--jack
 
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