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Had an idea today: what if Dingwall used a zero fret, and did away with the nut entirely? Instead of a nut, use the single “string trees” for all the strings like those from their NG-6’s that are on the EADG strings, but move them just a little closer to the zero fret. That would eliminate the finger scrape incurred during 1st fret fingering on the low string(s) due to the nut at high string, yes?
I’d say test it on a prototypebut the nut retains the strings in an exact, precise position. You could have all kinds of issue if the strings were left to slide free Accross the zero fret however minimal that may be.
Exactly. That’s why people get alternate nuts made for different gauges of strings.Just thinking... you have a similar issue with .95’s on a nut cut for .110’s don’t you?
Had an idea today: what if Dingwall used a zero fret, and did away with the nut entirely? Instead of a nut, use the single “string trees” for all the strings like those from their NG-6’s that are on the EADG strings, but move them just a little closer to the zero fret. That would eliminate the finger scrape incurred during 1st fret fingering on the low string(s) due to the nut at high string, yes?
My guess is that the string would wear the zero fret quickly if held from that distance but this is a very cool idea. Cool enough to try on a prototype. Thanks![]()
Would you be able to make that zero fret from a harder metal to solve that issue?
Would you be able to make that zero fret from a harder metal to solve that issue?
Kiesel ran into this issue on their early Vader guitars. Even with stainless steel frets, the string would wear a small dent or notch into the zero fret that would make noise when the open string was played.My guess is that the string would wear the zero fret quickly if held from that distance but this is a very cool idea. Cool enough to try on a prototype. Thanks![]()
Officially in the club. My AB1 arrived today and it had very little adaption time. The only thing that threw me off is playing a C at the 17th fret on the G string and I played a C# because I looked only at the side dots. Oh, and I keep forgetting that the A tuner is on the bottom side.
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What you said about someone liking the Dingwall in a 4 string only model, thats me and my 4 string Combustion, wouldnt have it any other way. So now that your playing yours and noticed little differences here and there, have you noticed anything, anything at all when you 1st went to play the G# or A on the G-String? You know, with the angle of the 1st fret there and the angle of the nut. I still have a little trouble fretting that G#/1st fret sometimes, so I try to avoid it and grab that note 6th fret D string.
What you said about someone liking the Dingwall in a 4 string only model, thats me and my 4 string Combustion, wouldnt have it any other way. So now that your playing yours and noticed little differences here and there, have you noticed anything, anything at all when you 1st went to play the G# or A on the G-String? You know, with the angle of the 1st fret there and the angle of the nut. I still have a little trouble fretting that G#/1st fret sometimes, so I try to avoid it and grab that note 6th fret D string.
All Sandberg basses come with zero fret and it is always thicker/higher than the other frets and always has little filed groves in it to settle the strings making it more like a metal nut.That's what I was wondering. Though different metals or fret sizes might impart particular tones, I guess it would be similar to a nut. However much that comes into play.