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Dingwall Owners Club

#44,021
BurningSkies said:
Yeah, Neck/Bridge series and Neck/Bridge parallel are my favorite settings on AB1, Z1 and Combustion models. Though I do like the Neck/Middle series on the NG it has just a little more clarity than the Neck/Bridge series on the others and you can add in a bit of low on the NG to make up for the slightly less bass frequency in the setting.
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I do like the position 1 solod neck sound, but boy is it an output drop compared to two pickups so it’s hard to switch them because I have to adjust volume from the amp every time to compensate. I don’t any position lacks clarity, this bass seems very bright overall from what I’m used to. Everything is so clear and loud, I can’t believe it’s not Emgs or at least active. This is my first dingwall and I’m really digging it.

My guitar player noticed the sound immediately, he was like the P bass (which is lifetime desert island bass) is smooth like a 4 door sedan, but the Ding is punchy like it’s F1 car with 1000hp. I think I may have threatened him, because it’s crazy how easy I cut through his distortion in the mix now. No one puts this dingwall in the corner, for sure. Has anyone noticed how comfortable it is neckwise? Is it the fanned frets, but I don’t feel any cramping after playing. Other expensive 5s I’ve owned gave me the worst forearm cramps and numb figures, it’s also why sold my stingrays.
 
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#44,022
Laklandfan said:
I do like the position 1 solod neck sound, but boy is it an output drop compared to two pickups so it’s hard to switch them because I have to adjust volume from the amp every time to compensate.
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You're doing it in reverse. Set to the quietest sound, then when you move to the louder ones you can turn down from the bass. I generally always check with my volume rolled back by about 10 or 15% then I have wiggle room from the bass to adjust accordingly. Since I'm always active, there's no negative to rolling back a bit.
 
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#44,026
Laklandfan said:
So you think Neck+bridge series is a winner? Ideally that would be position 4 instead of solo bridge, which I don’t use at all, if that’s possible.
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You already have neck/bridge series if you have the 3x switch (vs D-Bird), but if you're just asking whether it could move positions, I don't think so (without putting in a new switch wired that way).
 
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#44,031
I am loving my new AB1 and am having a hard time putting it down. :)

My favorite settings have been in the 2nd and 3rd rotary positions. I absolutely love them both, but I do miss the Fender pbass sound I have in my head. I was thinking about trying the ptone pickup, but am afraid of how it will effect the 2nd and 3rd rotary positions.

Am I overthinking this? For those who have made the switch, would you all share how the other rotary positions changed?

Thanks!
 
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#44,032
I put a Ptone in the neck spot on my AB-1 5. I had been on the fence with that bass. The P tone made it a keeper.

Improved every position except the bridge solo. I wired the bridge pup to series for more beef in that spot. Easy to do and easily reversed, bonus points if you add a switch to have both series and parallel options.

You might try wiring your bridge pup to series first, it takes you towards the Ptone sound. The P tone is a series pickup. I did that with the Super fatty in a Super J 5 while I waited for the P style pickup for the Super 5 to be released.

I think the Ptone for the AB-1 five string was around $150, and money well spent.
 
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#44,033
singlemalt said:
I put a Ptone in the neck spot on my AB-1 5. I had been on the fence with that bass. The P tone made it a keeper.

Improved every position except the bridge solo. I wired the bridge pup to series for more beef in that spot. Easy to do and easily reversed, bonus points if you add a switch to have both series and parallel options.

You might try wiring your bridge pup to series first, it takes you towards the Ptone sound. The P tone is a series pickup. I did that with the Super fatty in a Super J 5 while I waited for the P style pickup for the Super 5 to be released.

I think the Ptone for the AB-1 five string was around $150, and money well spent.
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It’s hard for me to find pickup specifics on the website, but I’m interested in learning more: does the P-tone fit in the FDv shells? Does a bass need to rewired or does it drop in with existing switching configurations? Is it only used in the neck or can it be used in middle/bridge?
 
#44,034
The P tone I bought was in an old style rectangular shell, for the older model AB-1 I had. Drops right in, solder two wires to the switch. Other guys have put Ptones in the bridge position as well as the neck position and reported good results. When you get into three pickups, there are some polarity issues that limit the choices.

Contacting the shop is the way to go for pickup availability. They will provide clear wiring diagrams to go with the pickup. I'm sure they can put the Ptone wound coils into the new style shells. Probably in either standard or reverse P configurations. It's a two coil pup, placed in one shell. The traditional looking P tone pickup could be installed either way, but needs a pick guard to match.

I used the P tone solo'd most of the time, and I had that AB-1 strung with TI jazz flats. It was outstanding for old school thump. Did a wicked slap tone as well, with the old blueqube switch. The two series wired pickups combined in parallel was another favorite sound. Rotary switch one click from bridge solo'd. The series wired bridge pup solo could do a nice J sound, but usually needs a volume boost.

Edit: it’s been a while since I looked into pickups. At the time, I just ordered the P tone from the web store. I’m not seeing pickups in the Dingwall web store. Fret Nation or one of the other dealers might be worth a shot. Or contact the shop, they are easy to get along with.
 
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#44,035
chanson said:
If I were to bring this to a reputable shop, would it be relatively simple for them to install? I have an NG-3 but am wanting to get more pickup options.

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Yes. minimal soldering. Many players with hobbyist skills have installed these.
 
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#44,036
chanson said:
If I were to bring this to a reputable shop, would it be relatively simple for them to install? I have an NG-3 but am wanting to get more pickup options.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Click to expand...

BurningSkies said:
Yes. minimal soldering. Many players with hobbyist skills have installed these.
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I just recently did mine. It was 11 solder joints. I had Mopre build the switch for me with the settings I selected.

It’s kind of an ugly looking switch so good thing it’s hidden. Lol

Before
44D16804-3F06-4EC9-A783-315A947A5744.jpeg

after
E0F89E2A-F392-4B8B-A5A3-3516A8960E87.jpeg
 
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#44,038
AB Nate said:
I just recently did mine. It was 11 solder joints. I had Mopre build the switch for me with the settings I selected.

It’s kind of an ugly looking switch so good thing it’s hidden. Lol

Before
View attachment 4379682
after
View attachment 4379683
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May not be pretty, but it works! ;) 11 joints is minimal in my book. ;)

Katoosie said:
Dingwall afterburner I got put up locally.
If I didn't buy my spector I would be snatching the dingwall as we speak.
View attachment 4379788
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AB-HS. They don't officially make these as a 'model' anymore as far as I know. The HS stands for "Heavy Solid." And is more closely aligned to the older Afterburner II basses before they became chambered with F-hole.
 
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