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Dingwall Owners Club

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Can anyone with a push/pull for active-passive on the Vol knob - and with Darkglass pre installed - PM me a photo of the cavity and a close up of the Vol pot? I just want to see which lugs the wires are going to on the Vol pot. I'm pretty sure I have it correct, but I want to double check before I do surgery. Would be greatly appreciated, I've searched all over for cavity shots and can't find one clean enough.
 
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Has anyone ever taken the preamp out of a NG?

I'm not really into active basses. I'd much rather just have a tone knob

I'd like to see a passive version as well, and it should lower the cost quite a bit.

However both of my Afterburners are passive. I got them both used and they both cost quite a bit less than a new Combustion and usually less than most used Combustions.
 
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You could swap in the EMG pre amp from a combustion and that would give you a passive tone control. That said, you could try and trade the NG for a combustion.

I don't ever use preamps though.

If I decide to keep this bass, I'll probably put in the 6 way switch, a Nordstrand tone drop, and a kill switch where the active/passive switch is.

Then maybe plug the old holes if I feel like it.

If I go that far, I'm getting the nice Dingwall knobs for it and taking the PG off .
 
I'm kind of in the same mental space. I could've sworn on Combustions, the Treble control was a tone control below the middle detent.

I use my preamps only a little (I don't recall ever turning a knob past about 1/3), but, much prefer having it be there and available than not. A long time ago, and maybe was on the old Dingwall forums, someone wired a Combustion straight to the jack (after the rotary) and I didn't like how it sounded for some reason. Think it was even before 3 pickup imports were a thing.
 
I don't ever use preamps though.

If I decide to keep this bass, I'll probably put in the 6 way switch, a Nordstrand tone drop, and a kill switch where the active/passive switch is.

Then maybe plug the old holes if I feel like it.

If I go that far, I'm getting the nice Dingwall knobs for it and taking the PG off .

Like MMBongo, maybe a passive AB is more suitable.
 
Even without ever touching the tone controls an active bass can be nice because of its ability to drive longer cables without signal loss in the high end, and for the lower impedance when connecting to a device downstream of the bass.

Excellent point.

The corollary being that a lower impedance may or may not be part of one's sound--it certainly helps to maintain clear, full-range reproduction in a longer cable, if that's what you want (as does a pedalboard buffer after a short cable). As we all know, Hendrix ran his high-impedance guitar signal through that long, curly cable, which bled off most of the piercing highs that would otherwise have been present, and at least a few "tenor bass" players like his tone. For dub bass? Not so much of a concern.

Not that it's in play here, but this was why I opted for the Glockenklang preamp--it can be switched out entirely leaving only a passive tone control and doesn't appreciably color the sound when engaged and set at the detents. Extra $$ for extra flexibility to cover multiple environments (and to cover possible battery failure due to AARP bassist memory failure). Not everyone's budget or cup of tea, however.
 
Finalizing my Z3 specs with John Fox, and I want to talk about the bleaching and preshading options really quick. I’m going for the reverse burst purple to turquoise color, so how much is bleaching and/or preshading going to do for me with that finish? Worth it?
 
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