The Super J comes with FDVs by default, so I would assume the majority of Super J owners have FDVs in their basses. Mine has 3 FDVs and they’re wonderful.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
If you want to go "traditional Dingwall", go with P-Tone and Super Fatty 2.
My Super J 3x has FD3 pickups I believe. They sound great!
Had first gig with the AB2 last night since I finished all the guts work. Adding the new s/p switches just put the icing on the cake! SF2's with N+B in series, passive tone down about halfway, a touch of bass boost, slight treble cut on the 2B preamp - just a marvelous tone on this bass. It sounded sooooooooo good 
... Quite a few regulars noticed a difference - that series N+B setting is a real booty shaker.
... Quite a few regulars noticed a difference - that series N+B setting is a real booty shaker.
Big AlNico fan here. As well as sounding killer, I'm sure an FDV equipped SJ would compliment your ABZ nicely. When Sheldon introduced FDV's I really wanted to hear some AlNico action in my SJ/P-4, which has an original Super Fatty at the bridge. As there weren't FDVs available to drop in, Dingwall kindly set me up with some (empty) shells and Nordstrand installed a custom NP-4a and Big Split in them for me. They're more 'relaxed' than the original neo pickups. I love the sound of nickel rounds with them. I also loved the FDV's that I put in my NG2 so much, I spec'd them in my Afterburner. FDV's float my tonal boat.
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I would go with FDVs in a super J as well. I usually don't stray from Dingwall's recommendations as they know their stuff.
Wow. That’s like if a Sadowsky and a Dingwall had a baby.
That didn’t last. Good score for someone !
White/Wenge will look pretty awesome.
After much trepidation between a D-Roc 5 or an NG-3 5 or 6, I was finally able to try them all in a shop.
Despite really digging the D-Roc looks (while never being a Thunder bird guy before) the ergonomics and preamp of the NG-3 won me over. It was night and day easier to play on the higher frets, especially with a strap bolted in. Honestly, I'm surprised some of the reviews made it seem like upper fret access was decent, because it just felt a bit awkward and I wish when they redesigned it, a deeper cut was made and the neck joint + strap button positioning was changed to be more comfortable.
More power to the Thunderbird folks that it will definitely meet the needs of, but the NG-3 is much more my speed and I'm excited to get my first 6.
I did dig the all 3 pups on setting, so I ordered a 6 way switch to have a shop install it, along with Canadian knobs because I don't like how you can't see the position of the default ones. Down the road I'd ideally like to swap the bridge saddles for a one piece like the D-Rocs (very nice and smooth edges, seemed easier to adjust for intonation more precisely), possibly a quick guard pickguard (flat black), and some day flat black tuners because the chromed nickel doesn't pop as much with a white bass.
Very happy with what will be my first dingwall - ordered online because unfortunately the local shop couldn't price match, but I bought some stuff to support them and thank them for letting me test the basses out.
Any tips for someone moving to a 6? I'm tempted to restring it and tune to F# like Connor from Haken
Despite really digging the D-Roc looks (while never being a Thunder bird guy before) the ergonomics and preamp of the NG-3 won me over. It was night and day easier to play on the higher frets, especially with a strap bolted in. Honestly, I'm surprised some of the reviews made it seem like upper fret access was decent, because it just felt a bit awkward and I wish when they redesigned it, a deeper cut was made and the neck joint + strap button positioning was changed to be more comfortable.
More power to the Thunderbird folks that it will definitely meet the needs of, but the NG-3 is much more my speed and I'm excited to get my first 6.
I did dig the all 3 pups on setting, so I ordered a 6 way switch to have a shop install it, along with Canadian knobs because I don't like how you can't see the position of the default ones. Down the road I'd ideally like to swap the bridge saddles for a one piece like the D-Rocs (very nice and smooth edges, seemed easier to adjust for intonation more precisely), possibly a quick guard pickguard (flat black), and some day flat black tuners because the chromed nickel doesn't pop as much with a white bass.
Very happy with what will be my first dingwall - ordered online because unfortunately the local shop couldn't price match, but I bought some stuff to support them and thank them for letting me test the basses out.
Any tips for someone moving to a 6? I'm tempted to restring it and tune to F# like Connor from Haken
After much trepidation between a D-Roc 5 or an NG-3 5 or 6, I was finally able to try them all in a shop.
Despite really digging the D-Roc looks (while never being a Thunder bird guy before) the ergonomics and preamp of the NG-3 won me over. It was night and day easier to play on the higher frets, especially with a strap bolted in. Honestly, I'm surprised some of the reviews made it seem like upper fret access was decent, because it just felt a bit awkward and I wish when they redesigned it, a deeper cut was made and the neck joint + strap button positioning was changed to be more comfortable.
More power to the Thunderbird folks that it will definitely meet the needs of, but the NG-3 is much more my speed and I'm excited to get my first 6.
I did dig the all 3 pups on setting, so I ordered a 6 way switch to have a shop install it, along with Canadian knobs because I don't like how you can't see the position of the default ones. Down the road I'd ideally like to swap the bridge saddles for a one piece like the D-Rocs (very nice and smooth edges, seemed easier to adjust for intonation more precisely), possibly a quick guard pickguard (flat black), and some day flat black tuners because the chromed nickel doesn't pop as much with a white bass.
Very happy with what will be my first dingwall - ordered online because unfortunately the local shop couldn't price match, but I bought some stuff to support them and thank them for letting me test the basses out.
Any tips for someone moving to a 6? I'm tempted to restring it and tune to F# like Connor from Haken
No 6 tips (I mainly play 5s), but if you go F# and are looking for one:
For Sale/Trade - Dingwall Stainless Steel F# string .170
After much trepidation between a D-Roc 5 or an NG-3 5 or 6, I was finally able to try them all in a shop.
Despite really digging the D-Roc looks (while never being a Thunder bird guy before) the ergonomics and preamp of the NG-3 won me over. It was night and day easier to play on the higher frets, especially with a strap bolted in. Honestly, I'm surprised some of the reviews made it seem like upper fret access was decent, because it just felt a bit awkward and I wish when they redesigned it, a deeper cut was made and the neck joint + strap button positioning was changed to be more comfortable.
More power to the Thunderbird folks that it will definitely meet the needs of, but the NG-3 is much more my speed and I'm excited to get my first 6.
I did dig the all 3 pups on setting, so I ordered a 6 way switch to have a shop install it, along with Canadian knobs because I don't like how you can't see the position of the default ones. Down the road I'd ideally like to swap the bridge saddles for a one piece like the D-Rocs (very nice and smooth edges, seemed easier to adjust for intonation more precisely), possibly a quick guard pickguard (flat black), and some day flat black tuners because the chromed nickel doesn't pop as much with a white bass.
Very happy with what will be my first dingwall - ordered online because unfortunately the local shop couldn't price match, but I bought some stuff to support them and thank them for letting me test the basses out.
Any tips for someone moving to a 6? I'm tempted to restring it and tune to F# like Connor from Haken
Switching to 5 from 4 was pretty easy. 6 broke my brain for a few weeks. Having the extra string under my hand verses just an extra one to reach for took an adjustment.
However, if you're going low F#, I would think it would be easier to navigate.
