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Dingwall Owners Club

#48,302
How about a 3 band preamp, replace the switch with a 4 or 6 way toggle rather than a rotary and adding something like the Fender S1 switch to the volume knob for active/passive.
I find push pull knobs very much annoying so would prefer a button or actual switch. I’d even go as far as relocate an active/passive push button switch to a newly fabricated control plate on the back before having a push pull knob.

That said I wouldn’t change the preamp in that bass I’d just use it as an excuse to get another Dingwall.
 
#48,303
Sold my ABZ 5 for an AB1 with the proper amount of strings. I love new bass day!

upload_2022-4-12_12-43-19.jpeg
upload_2022-4-12_12-44-1.jpeg
 
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#48,306
jellew said:
So I want to change the electronics in my afterburner and I am going for the Glockenklang, but I am not sure what to do exactly, the options I have come up with in my head is:
- A clean replacement with two band preamp
- A clean replacement with 3 band stacked preamp (although new knobs or knob would be needed)
- A modified replacement with 3 band preamp. The now superfluous active/passive switch replaces the 4-way rotary switch. The switch would be two way, both pickups series and both pickups parallel.
- A modified replacement with 3 band preamp. Remove the switch and move the rotary switch to its place.
- Buy a new bass.

Any thoughts on this?

View attachment 4654361
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Well, I am NOT shy about modding a bass to suit how I want it to be, so my vote would be:
"A modified replacement with 3 band preamp. Remove the switch and move the rotary switch to its place."

If the Glockenklang has active/passive capabilities, I'd drill a new hole for the switch and relocate it between the bridge and the (soon to be) middle knob.
[Edit: looks like the Glock comes with the active/passive push pull attached to a circuit board, I would leave that alone]
I do NOT like stacked knobs or push/pull switches, and prefer as much WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) as possible for simplicity and visual feedback during gigs.

For this same reason, I orient the knobs on my bass so that the set screws are all pointing in the same direction at their "default" setting (center detent for EQ, full up for volume).
And then I go one step further and replace those set screws so that they contrast with the knob - black knobs get stainless set screws and chrome knobs get black set screws.

Not that I'm OCD about this or anything...:whistle:
 
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#48,307
shade_1313 said:
I got some to play around with. Got nearly all of them installed and realized that I was supposed to start with 1, not 3 like dots do. Which certainly explained why the blocks didn’t seem to quite sit neatly in their section of board. They all removed extremely easily, then stuck down in the right spots as though nothing had happened. I’m still deciding if I like them or not, since the blue and purple swirl is much brighter than the blue/purple color shift paint.

View attachment 4651252
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I see what you mean, but those still look pretty darn cool. What the heck, I'm gonna order some and bling up my NG's, lol..
 
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#48,309
Waltsdog said:
How about a 3 band preamp, replace the switch with a 4 or 6 way toggle rather than a rotary and adding something like the Fender S1 switch to the volume knob for active/passive.
I find push pull knobs very much annoying so would prefer a button or actual switch. I’d even go as far as relocate an active/passive push button switch to a newly fabricated control plate on the back before having a push pull knob.

That said I wouldn’t change the preamp in that bass I’d just use it as an excuse to get another Dingwall.
Click to expand...

Perhaps a toggle could be inserted without the need to drill a new hole.

Yeah the thought of adding to the collection is one reason I have postponed this :)
 
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#48,310
groovaholic said:
Well, I am NOT shy about modding a bass to suit how I want it to be, so my vote would be:
"A modified replacement with 3 band preamp. Remove the switch and move the rotary switch to its place."

If the Glockenklang has active/passive capabilities, I'd drill a new hole for the switch and relocate it between the bridge and the (soon to be) middle knob.
[Edit: looks like the Glock comes with the active/passive push pull attached to a circuit board, I would leave that alone]
I do NOT like stacked knobs or push/pull switches, and prefer as much WYSIWYG (what you see is what you get) as possible for simplicity and visual feedback during gigs.

For this same reason, I orient the knobs on my bass so that the set screws are all pointing in the same direction at their "default" setting (center detent for EQ, full up for volume).
And then I go one step further and replace those set screws so that they contrast with the knob - black knobs get stainless set screws and chrome knobs get black set screws.

Not that I'm OCD about this or anything...:whistle:
Click to expand...
I am a bit less obsessed than you about these things but I do still agree about your sentiment on stacked knobs and push/pull switches.
 
#48,313
Nakoatron said:
I love how Sheldon has destroyed the idea that long scale = huge unplayable bass. This is my ab2 sitting my my stingrays case lol

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I feel the same way! This is my AB2 back to back with my Sadowsky Verdine 5. Blew my mind when I found out it was shorter in overall length.

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#48,315
I put some of the “abalone” inlay stickers (I’m a sucker for inlays - they either need to enhance the look of the bass or not be there at all - not a huge fan of dots) from neck illusions on the D-bird today hoping the green in the abalone would look good with the aquamarine sparkle. I think it looks pretty good. What do ya’ll think?

I also restrung with fresh Payson steels (my first experience with Payson) and they sound fantastic! Highly recommended!

08F6D12B-2D0C-4893-B87D-5AE9A7F99B8A.jpeg
 
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#48,316
beatdatthang said:
I put some of the “abalone” inlay stickers (I’m a sucker for inlays - they either need to enhance the look of the bass or not be there at all - not a huge fan of dots) from neck illusions on the D-bird today hoping the green in the abalone would look good with the aquamarine sparkle. I think it looks pretty good. What do ya’ll think?

I also restrung with fresh Payson steels (my first experience with Payson) and they sound fantastic! Highly recommended!

View attachment 4655454
Click to expand...
I so wish I had one of those DBirds yours looks fantastic with the inlays ! I got the same ones for my Droc !
 
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#48,317
beatdatthang said:
I put some of the “abalone” inlay stickers (I’m a sucker for inlays - they either need to enhance the look of the bass or not be there at all - not a huge fan of dots) from neck illusions on the D-bird today hoping the green in the abalone would look good with the aquamarine sparkle. I think it looks pretty good. What do ya’ll think?

I also restrung with fresh Payson steels (my first experience with Payson) and they sound fantastic! Highly recommended!

View attachment 4655454
Click to expand...

Aqua Sparkle and Abalone? Heck yes!

Today I ordered the "Jade" and the "Black with Lime" swirl for my two black NG's.

Might look good, might not... :roflmao:
 
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