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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
Mine also arrived from JFB yesterday.
Oh, no! They’re running out!
I kid, I’m pretty sure the distribution to dealers is pretty random.
Oh, no! They’re running out!
I kid, I’m pretty sure the distribution to dealers is pretty random.
It would be cool to have 600/600.
reducing and simplifying makes that 1 of 1, so it's basically like owning the only one!
I spent an hour tweaking things on my board with the new pedal tonight.
After seeing the Dingwall video about the collaboration, I'm totally on board with Sheldon's stance of distilling the pedal into what it does best.
Whether you set it low gain, in the middle or dimed, it really gives you that B3K sound in a very straightforward package . It doesn't need the blend or the tone switches to sound great for any type of music.
With the testing I did tonight, I think the pedal will work great for what I was intending: mid to high gain with the tone around 9 o'clock or less for a pseduo fuzzy/overdriven sound. Everything else on my board is set to low or mid gain tones sans the fuzz pedals.
After seeing the Dingwall video about the collaboration, I'm totally on board with Sheldon's stance of distilling the pedal into what it does best.
Whether you set it low gain, in the middle or dimed, it really gives you that B3K sound in a very straightforward package . It doesn't need the blend or the tone switches to sound great for any type of music.
With the testing I did tonight, I think the pedal will work great for what I was intending: mid to high gain with the tone around 9 o'clock or less for a pseduo fuzzy/overdriven sound. Everything else on my board is set to low or mid gain tones sans the fuzz pedals.
I've been thinking of modding my Combustion 3 4 string, and I wonder if anyone has done this or something similar.
I never run the bass in active mode as I prefer the sound passive. I'm thinking of taking out the EMG preamp, adding a tone control in one of the pots and making the other two pots, along with the active/passive switch a series/parallel switch for each pickup. Also changing the 4-way selector to the 6-way.
Can this be done? Am I too ambitious to think such a thing?
Would love some feedback.
I never run the bass in active mode as I prefer the sound passive. I'm thinking of taking out the EMG preamp, adding a tone control in one of the pots and making the other two pots, along with the active/passive switch a series/parallel switch for each pickup. Also changing the 4-way selector to the 6-way.
Can this be done? Am I too ambitious to think such a thing?
Would love some feedback.
And just to close this topic about the ABII that I got... Dingwall says that all the ABII's at the time that mine was made had a bubinga top as standard, even under the paint.
So I'm going with that this is Indeed a bubi' top and I will leave it at that. I'm super stoked about that, too,
So I'm going with that this is Indeed a bubi' top and I will leave it at that. I'm super stoked about that, too,
You know mine is from the same era as yours, 2010 to be precise and came with a Redwood top
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IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
- 3,744
- 11,128
- Disclosures
- Content Manager at Darkglass Electronics, Dingwall Guitars Artist
Which power supply are you using for the Dingwall pedal?
I received mine and replaced a WTDI pedal on my board. The power supply input (from the removed WTDI) fits nice and snug, but was not able to power it up.
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
The included power supply for the WTDI is 15V centre positive. Iirc.
The Dingwall pedal needs 9V centre negative.
I’d be careful with that. Might do some damage.
Did some more noodling with the 35th pedal last night.. through my rig this time. Ill start by saying I dont own or have played through any DG pedals, the closest ive gotten is the Source Audio community presets. My aftershock is all DG based presets.
That said, the 35th pretty much hits all of the presets I use. I like the ease of flipping the switch on the Aftershock to change tones, but moving 3 knobs isnt too difficult either, lol. Works very well with a pick or fingerstyle. Even with the drive at like 3:00, it wasnt too muddy with fast, low-register finger runs. Gonna try it out with the reggae setup today and see what that leads to!
Might try to find some white tape or something to mark my different setting locations.
That said, the 35th pretty much hits all of the presets I use. I like the ease of flipping the switch on the Aftershock to change tones, but moving 3 knobs isnt too difficult either, lol. Works very well with a pick or fingerstyle. Even with the drive at like 3:00, it wasnt too muddy with fast, low-register finger runs. Gonna try it out with the reggae setup today and see what that leads to!
Might try to find some white tape or something to mark my different setting locations.
I'm using a 1Spot for everything on my board aside from the PSA, which uses it's own power supply.
Late to the party here, but with no proper responses to this I thought I might give my 2c as a shop tech and guitar maintenance freak for the last 6 years
First off, don't use Dunlop Lemon Oil (which as a side note contains no actual lemon oil, just lemon scented mineral oil) for maple fingerboards. It shouldn't damage those, but since maple is always lacquered it won't absorb and you'll just end up with an oily surface with no benefits for the fingerboard. For cleaning up lacquered fingerboards I've liked to use any standard cleaner/polish when the fingerboard is glossy and the Music Nomad Guitar Detailer if it's satin. If it's really dirty the Dunlop 01 (or isopropyl alchohol, the forbidden IPA) will blow the dirt away and also make you cough if inhaled so do be careful.
For satin surfaces the best product I've found to actually keep the satin satin is the aforementioned Music Nomad Guitar Detailer. It's the only product I've found so far to not leave a weird effect to the satin surface, and the excess will evaporate rather quickly. It's not super good at cleaning glossy surfaces though, so for those I use different stuff.
The best detailer for keeping your glossy surfaces looking scrathless is definitely the Planet Waves Detailer, PWPL01. It's amazing how well it brings back the gloss and hides smaller scratches even on very used instruments. It will leave your cleaning cloths a bit crunchy after a while though, so best to dedicate a cloth for that. I usually top this off with the Planet Waves PWPL03 which is also great for regular cleaning, just because it smells like kanelbullar aka the swedish cinnamon rolls. Don't sniff your cleaning liquids too much though.
Always use microfiber cloths, the yellow Dunlop ones are pretty cheap and nice enough but anything goes really. The blue BOSS cleaning cloths are superb for getting a nice glossy surface, I usually apply stuff with the thin cloths and finish with the blue puffy one. If you've got a dark unfinished fretboard and need to oil it, keep a dedicated cloth for that because that oil isn't coming off of it.
Oh and congrats on the bass! It looks awesome <3
I think that is based on a 2004. Yours is not that.
Noted. It was plugged up for all of 15 seconds, when it didn't light up hitting the foot switch a few times, I unplugged it and told myself to research which power supply it needs.
Thanks to all for the quick response! I hope I haven't fried the first pedal out of 600 lol....
I ordered one from John Fox Bass yesterday too. I wasn't going to, but couldn't resist!
I got a message from UPS , my pedal will be here tomorrow!
A bit off-topic but one has to wonder how you could make "actual lemon oil" anyway, no ?
You apparently can make essential oils from lemon so there's that. The reason I'm pointing the composition of Lemon Oil out specifically is because a few brands actually use the "Lemon Oil" branding against Dunlop by yelling from the rooftops that their fretboard conditioner doesn't have any lemon oil in it because lemon oil contains limonenes which can damage your fretboard.
