I just ordered the allen key kit from Dingwall. Thanks.
Do you happen to know the size of the shorter screws?
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
I just ordered the allen key kit from Dingwall. Thanks.
Do you happen to know the size of the shorter screws?
Just another in a long line of Dingwalls for sale that meet most of my specs except for the most important one....Speedo inlays.
I have never taken mine off so I wouldn't know. There are a few on the forum that have, so maybe they'll chime in.
If we’re talking the stainless button head saddle screws, just take one to the hardware store and match it with a shorter one.
I only needed shorter screws for untapered B & E strings like TI jazz flats.
Loosen the tiny set screws that hold the saddle block for intonation, move the block until it’s set and tuned. Then, if you are lowering the saddle screws, and they are going through the block and raising the block, but you still aren’t where you want to be, you’ll need shorter screws.
when you tighten the intonation set screws, don’t go so far that you start raising the block. A little pressure will keep the block from moving.
Most of the action is truss rod. Get that dialed first.
Check out Sheldon Dingwall’s step by step set up video series on YouTube.
I only needed shorter screws for untapered B & E strings like TI jazz flats.
Loosen the tiny set screws that hold the saddle block for intonation, move the block until it’s set and tuned. Then, if you are lowering the saddle screws, and they are going through the block and raising the block, but you still aren’t where you want to be, you’ll need shorter screws.
when you tighten the intonation set screws, don’t go so far that you start raising the block. A little pressure will keep the block from moving.
Most of the action is truss rod. Get that dialed first.
Check out Sheldon Dingwall’s step by step set up video series on YouTube.
I was never a fan of the way the inlays appeared to lazily meander from treble side to bass & back in the frets on some Dingwalls.
I just had to google "speedo inlays" to see what you were talking about and I **finally** see what's going on with the fanned frets appearing to be 'rectangle speedometer' in appearance when laid on the side - and the inlays mimicking where a radial dial would be as it makes its way from left to right. It finally makes sense! I suppose if I'd ordered a custom, I would've noticed this detail when weighing the fretboard options.
Now my 3mm treble-side-only dots look so plain!
Last edited:
As far as the truss rod goes, yes. It’s a 9/64” Allen wrench (roughly 3.5 mm) neither of which come in a normal set of Allen wrenches. When I bought my first Dingwall (used) it didn’t come with wrenches so I figured, well it’s Canadian so metric, right? Nope. Tried 4mm - it was too big, 3mm was too small. So I ordered a 3.5mm from Amazon for a couple bucks and it works. I then did some trial and error and found a 9/64 Standard Allen (I have a more extensive set of standard sized Allens) also works and is probably the actual size of the truss nut.
Last edited:
As someone who knows nothing about cars, this being shown like this makes so much more sense now. Lol. Thanks!I was never a fan of the way the inlays appeared to lazily meander from treble side to bass & back in the frets on some Dingwalls.
I just had to google "speedo inlays" to see what you were talking about and I **finally** see what's going on with the fanned frets appearing to be 'rectangle speedometer' in appearance when laid on the side - and the inlays mimicking where a radial dial would be as it makes its way from left to right. It finally makes sense! I suppose if I'd ordered a custom, I would've noticed this detail when weighing the fretboard options.
Now my 3mm treble-side-only dots look so plain!
I was never a fan of the way the inlays appeared to lazily meander from treble side to bass & back in the frets on some Dingwalls.
I just had to google "speedo inlays" to see what you were talking about and I **finally** see what's going on with the fanned frets appearing to be 'rectangle speedometer' in appearance when laid on the side - and the inlays mimicking where a radial dial would be as it makes its way from left to right. It finally makes sense! I suppose if I'd ordered a custom, I would've noticed this detail when weighing the fretboard options.
Now my 3mm treble-side-only dots look so plain!
When I first saw Speedo inlays I just thought they looked so awesome, and something different. Then like you I was like 'why are they called speedo??' and when I found out why I was like...ooooohhhh yeah!! I remember that from my Mom's car in the 70's!
It's also a cool oxymoron...very modern basses inspired by cars from the 70's
Yay! My set of Super Fatty IIs came in. Time to wire up two of them with the coils in series, then I think they’ll go into the Aquaflake D-Bird.
I’ll let you know soon, it may take a few days for me to have time to do the swap. Nice thing is that I can do a perfect A/B comparison, given that I have two D-Bird standards and a D-Roc standard. In a few months, I’m probably going to put FDVs in one of the others…probably the D-Roc.
super fattie 2s have increased low and high content and are Neodymium. Stock FDVs are an alnico magnet and are a more open and even across the range.
you should double check me by exploring the Dingwall website as they have all this info listed there and I’m just spouting it out my faceass
Am I missing something. Don’t Drocs and birds come standard production FDVs?
I am getting old and memory is starting to fuzz up even more these days
Customs do. Standards come with FD3n, I think.
I want to try FDVs but sourcing the shells I need would be a pain, maybe could do it through Nordstrand if they would help me.
BassDirect carry FDVs in both round and square end, if that helps: Dingwall bass guitar pickups, FD3 4L, Split coil Neodymium pickups for Combustion and Afterburner basses. Fan fret, NG3, London, Manchester, Birmingham, Warwick, UK, USA, EU
I forgot about them, thanks for the recommendation! More of a reason to do it if they carry what I need without having to go through 10 extra steps.
That is by far one of the best looking basses I've ever seen.
Of course I'm a bit biased
Latest posts
-
-
-
-
Post a funnier picture than the one above - Parallel Universe Edition- Latest: Just go for it
-
