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Dingwall Owners Club

Just spit-balling here, it seems the best way to get a truly Swiss Army Knife bass (for Classic Rock) would be something that would get in the zip-code of a J, P, Thunderbird, MM would be a 3 PUP Dingwall, but would require a custom switch.

A J would be Neck/bridge in parallel?
Tbird would be Neck/bridge in series?
MM middle/bridge in series?
P middle in series?
Add a neck solo in series and roll tone off for a Gibson mudbucker vibe?

So that's 5. Add a SushiBox pedal to get the tube vibe and you're all set. Any corrections to my assumption appreciated.
Looks like it’s in the ballpark. Just add an “all on” position and you’ve got a nice custom 6 way switch.
 
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I have had Supers and longscale AB’s but not a Sklar or a Z.

I wouldn’t be in rush to trade into a Super from the Sklar. Try to play a Super while you have your Sklar and swap back and forth. Check out the spec page on the Dingwall website. String spacing and scale length are the big differences. And maybe weight.

Your Sklar is probably 18mm string spacing, supers are 19.

My impression is that the Sklar and Z body styles run a bit heavier than the Alder body AB’s and Supers. My AB-1 four string and the Super P four string both weigh 7.5 lb. Very light.

With a three pickup Sklar and a couple string sets, say bright rounds and a set of Payson or TI flats, plus the various wiring options for selector switch and pickup wiring, you should have it covered.
 
After some more consideration I put a deposit down on a gloss black 5-string version of the John Taylor model. I like the woods, pickup, electronic, and hardware configuration and am curious what the Neve preamp will add.
Now the wait...
John Taylor Signature Model - Dingwall
Dingwall John Taylor Bass Colors.png
 
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I have had Supers and longscale AB’s but not a Sklar or a Z.

I wouldn’t be in rush to trade into a Super from the Sklar. Try to play a Super while you have your Sklar and swap back and forth. Check out the spec page on the Dingwall website. String spacing and scale length are the big differences. And maybe weight.

Your Sklar is probably 18mm string spacing, supers are 19.

My impression is that the Sklar and Z body styles run a bit heavier than the Alder body AB’s and Supers. My AB-1 four string and the Super P four string both weigh 7.5 lb. Very light.

With a three pickup Sklar and a couple string sets, say bright rounds and a set of Payson or TI flats, plus the various wiring options for selector switch and pickup wiring, you should have it covered.


I find the hardest part going between the two is the string spacing and the neck width. I am more comfortable on 18mm and narrower string spacing.
 
Hi all,

Looking at a Lee Sklar 5 string model with 3 pickups.

Can anyone explain the difference between that and a Z3? Seems to be exactly the same with the addition of a hipshot extender on the B string and potentially different pickup selector options? If so, how are the options different from the Z3 and is there anything else which is different?

Cheers!
 
Hi all,

Looking at a Lee Sklar 5 string model with 3 pickups.

Can anyone explain the difference between that and a Z3? Seems to be exactly the same with the addition of a hipshot extender on the B string and potentially different pickup selector options? If so, how are the options different from the Z3 and is there anything else which is different?

Cheers!
Body and neck made from two types of wood and what you said.

That's about it.
 
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Hi all,

Looking at a Lee Sklar 5 string model with 3 pickups.

Can anyone explain the difference between that and a Z3? Seems to be exactly the same with the addition of a hipshot extender on the B string and potentially different pickup selector options? If so, how are the options different from the Z3 and is there anything else which is different?

Cheers!

I banged away on my Dingwall spec sheet deciding between a Z and a Sklar for a week. I also consulted with Dingwall’s premier dealer on the matter.

From a player’s point of view, a Sklar is basically a Z with smaller frets, a hipshot, and the Northern ash/alder dual-density body. The electronics suite is a bit different on a Sklar than on a what is stock on a Z - the Sklar has a 250 Hz active midrange and no series/parallel switches. On the decorative side, you get Sheldon Dingwall’s signature on the headstock of a Z and Sklar’s signature on the headstock of his model.

It’s important to note that the Z model is much more customizable than the Sklar. The Sklar is the Sklar and that’s it. The thing with Dingwall is that you can’t pick and choose certain distinctives of a Sklar model to go on a similar Z - you can’t get Sklar-specific mandolin frets on any other model and you can’t get the Sklar-specific preamp on a Z. To clarify, Sklar chose a 250 Hz midrange on the Glockenklang preamp on his bass, and the stock Z has a 550 Hz midrange on the same Glockenklang preamp - same pre, different frequency points. Sklar runs his boosts on the hotter side when he plays the Dingwall and he wanted the 250 Hz. You can get instructions from a few obvious sources on how to switch the mid frequency on the Glockenklang yourself. They just won’t do it at the factory. If I’m correct, you also can’t get premium fingerboard inlays on a Sklar - it’s dots and the “D” on the 12th fret. They’re considerably behind in production and apparently won’t entertain these requests and I recall a possible desire to keep a Sklar a Sklar and not get it watered down with all sorts of deviations from the original design. No biggie, as far as I’m concerned.

My upcoming build is a Z - basically a Sklar with no Hipshot, no Sklar signature, regular non-mando frets, and the 550 mid on the pre. It could be mistaken for a Sklar from 10 feet away, if Sklar’s signature wasn’t a consideration. All I really wanted was a Sklar with regular frets but that wasn’t possible. Since Dingwall wouldn’t build a Sklar like I wanted, I ordered a Z to get it.

I’ve played a Z and a Sklar one right after the other and they’re more similar than different - whichever one is best for you is how well you get along with what’s on the build sheet.
 
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Hi all,

Looking at a Lee Sklar 5 string model with 3 pickups.

Can anyone explain the difference between that and a Z3? Seems to be exactly the same with the addition of a hipshot extender on the B string and potentially different pickup selector options? If so, how are the options different from the Z3 and is there anything else which is different?

Cheers!
The body of the sklar is ash/norther ash
The frets are mandolin frets
And the pick ups are stock SF2s
The pre amp is 3 band glockenklang

the Z is 2 piece Ash
The frets are banjo
The pick ups are FDVs

obviously other things like neck woods, X tops, pre amp come into play as well but these are all customizable specs on a Z
 
Help!!! I need to put a quad tone (3 pickup) selector back in my bass, I had a 6 way but didn't jive with it so I'm putting a quad tone back in. Here's the problem - I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere for what colors from the pickup goes where. I should have taken a picture before I had the 6-way installed, but I didn't. I've searched for about an hour but can't find anything other than D-ROC diagrams. My other Dingwall has the series/parallel switches, so looking at it won't help much.
 
Hi all,

Looking at a Lee Sklar 5 string model with 3 pickups.

Can anyone explain the difference between that and a Z3? Seems to be exactly the same with the addition of a hipshot extender on the B string and potentially different pickup selector options? If so, how are the options different from the Z3 and is there anything else which is different?

Cheers!

The body of the sklar is ash/norther ash
The frets are mandolin frets
And the pick ups are stock SF2s
The pre amp is 3 band glockenklang

the Z is 2 piece Ash
The frets are banjo
The pick ups are FDVs

obviously other things like neck woods, X tops, pre amp come into play as well but these are all customizable specs on a Z

Two-pickup Sklars also had a different four-position switch, when went Bridge, Parallel, Neck, Series... basically "thinnest" to "thickest" sounds. Dunno about the three-pickup models.
 
Considering a deposit on a Super P build. Buying myself time while I decide on the color combo. Maple fretboard is a must. My first thought was shell pink and a white/black/white pickguard. I’m also considering vintageburst with a black/white/black pickguard for an updated dadcore vibe. Much to think about.
 
Considering a deposit on a Super P build. Buying myself time while I decide on the color combo. Maple fretboard is a must. My first thought was shell pink and a white/black/white pickguard. I’m also considering vintageburst with a black/white/black pickguard for an updated dadcore vibe. Much to think about.
Shell pink with parchment. Sorry to pollute the thread with a cheap Harley Benton (it’s actually great value for the money).
IMG_0275.jpeg
 
Help!!! I need to put a quad tone (3 pickup) selector back in my bass, I had a 6 way but didn't jive with it so I'm putting a quad tone back in. Here's the problem - I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere for what colors from the pickup goes where. I should have taken a picture before I had the 6-way installed, but I didn't. I've searched for about an hour but can't find anything other than D-ROC diagrams. My other Dingwall has the series/parallel switches, so looking at it won't help much.

Here: https://www.talkbass.com/attachments/dingwall-3x-pickup-wiring-diagram-pdf.3482233/
 
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Help!!! I need to put a quad tone (3 pickup) selector back in my bass, I had a 6 way but didn't jive with it so I'm putting a quad tone back in. Here's the problem - I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere for what colors from the pickup goes where. I should have taken a picture before I had the 6-way installed, but I didn't. I've searched for about an hour but can't find anything other than D-ROC diagrams. My other Dingwall has the series/parallel switches, so looking at it won't help much.
Is this what you need?
E2A21B99-49A3-4F51-B0A1-26152DEF4F19.jpeg