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Dingwall Owners Club

My first was clean:

P1120675.jpg
 
Nice and clean. I actually have a dealer getting me a quote on a custom Super P. Listened to some advice about getting an order in before NAMM. As follows:

Dingwall SP4 with alder body
- Fiesta Red
- All wenge neck and wenge fretboard
- Abalone inlaid logo on headstock
- Side abalone markers
- No fretboard dot markers
- Black pick guard
- Passive tone fusion electronics
- All black hardware, screws, tuners, bridge etc

Yes it pretty much is like Nolly's with some changes. His post jump started me and my wife talking about custom ordering and she is cool with it :hyper: .. So thanks Nolly :D
 
Nice and clean. I actually have a dealer getting me a quote on a custom Super P. Listened to some advice about getting an order in before NAMM. As follows:

Dingwall SP4 with alder body
- Fiesta Red
- All wenge neck and wenge fretboard
- Abalone inlaid logo on headstock
- Side abalone markers
- No fretboard dot markers
- Black pick guard
- Passive tone fusion electronics
- All black hardware, screws, tuners, bridge etc

Yes it pretty much is like Nolly's with some changes. His post jump started me and my wife talking about custom ordering and she is cool with it :hyper: .. So thanks Nolly :D

Sweet Daddy !

I am really trying to talk myself out of ordering a third. Thus far, it's not working.
 
I consider markers on the face of the fretboard to be for those that play with me, rather than for myself. I have an AB-1 without markers and found that to most guitarists or keyboard players in a live situation that has 'sit in' or improv. use visual cues as a 'ballpark' to what key you're working in. Most of them are used to both 4-string and/or straight frets.

I used to get a lot of comments (after the fact) from people saying "for the life of me, I couldn't figure out where you were"... The combination of the 5th string (the visual anchor of the E string being the lowest not being present) and the fanning really threw a lot of good and experienced players.

That's why the Rastaburst has 2 markers. 5 and 12. It gives others a fighting chance. Since then, I play in a band that loves the flat and sharp keys, so sit ins are still confused.
 
So I've got a stock early model Combustion that I want to be my main gigging bass, and basically I'm looking to see how far I can upgrade it within reason.

Before I got a Dingwall I pretty much played Kubicki Ex-Factor exclusively, so that is kind of the benchmark for the tone I'm looking for - that high-output, hi-fi tone. I know a Combustion of course being a lower-priced instrument has certain limitations, but I want to see how close I can get.

So I am thinking first step would be a preamp upgrade; I have in mind Aguilar OBP-2 18 volt.

After that would be pickups, namely FD3s. My main question is whether I should do pickups or preamp first, and how the sound will turn out with both in conjunction.

I'm sure other Combustion owners have been down this road before, so any feedback is welcome!
 
If you like the FD-3A's but want something a bit more modern, the FD-3 4L might be a good choice. From the description (I don't have a Combustion, but do have both AB1 and V/Z), they're a bit more modern and hifi and wider.

I have one of the old FD-3 sets (coils wired in parallel), and one of the FD-3 MachII 4-Lead sets (4L allow you to install switches for either series or parallel coils), and I find that I end up running them in series most of the time. The parallel setting is a bit broader and 'Jazz bass like' to my ear while the series setting is a little more low mid bumped with less extension.

For preamps, I like the Aguilar, but also check out the Glock.
 
I have a Combustion that I upgraded extensively, though with the goal of making it a modern, MusicMan-like bass.

I definitely agree on upgrading the pickups to FD-3 4Ls, but I'm not sure about wiring the neck pickup in series. It might work for you, it might not. A bit of context - on all FD-3 models (that special P pickup aside), the neck pickup is by default wired in parallel while the bridge pickup is wired in series. This makes sense considering their sound and relative levels. My AB-II has FD-3 4Ls and a switch for series/parallel for the neck pickup so I can go both ways. While I love the neck pickup in series when I solo the neck pickup, it's overwhelming the bridge pickup when both pickups are used. In my opinion and experience, of course, your mileage might vary. Adding a series-parallel switch for the neck pickup is pretty easy, or you can make it a push-pull on the volume pot.

As for your specific question - I'd replace the preamp first. It made the biggest difference for me, and I replaced and repositioned the pickups. I went for a MM StringRay sounding John East preamp and that was an obvious big step in the right direction for me. What are you looking for in a preamp? If you're going for a colorless and natural preamp, Glock is probably the way to go.
 
What are you looking for in a preamp? If you're going for a colorless and natural preamp, Glock is probably the way to go.

I'm not sure colorless is what i have in mind, as I'm not quite satisfied with the stock sound of the Combustion as it is. I wouldn't mind a pre that added a bit of character, especially in the mids, and has 18v for the headroom. Thus leaning toward the Ag.
 
One thing no one else has mentioned is adding a B string booster if you don't already have one. The C1 Combustions don't have the passive/active switch that the C2 has and as far as I know the C1 did not come standard with the B string booster. I added one to mine and really made a difference on leveling out the tone across all the strings. If I recall the B string kit was 10.00

Really simple upgrade, takes longer to take the strings off & on than to add the booster kit. Do this in addition to any pickup/preamp changes you wish to make.
 
Whatcha talking 'bout Willis?

I've spent the last 2 days testing my ABZ5, miticolously playing every note on every fret, every string, including open ones, and... all I've found was 125 LIVE spots!!

that's 24 frets x 5 strings = 120 + 5 open notes, total 125 spots and none of 'em were rigor mortis. I've been playing these low end things for over 30 years, I should be able to tell if any of my spots were dead.

The ABZ is check, the search continues on my ABII next and then the Super J/P after that.

Watch this space...... I will report casualties as I find them, IF I find them.