The YYZ has a boost now but really it just boosts high end a bit so that’s likely not what you’re after.
There is of course the Dingwall drive pedal Dingwall 35th Anniversary Pedal - Dingwall
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
The YYZ has a boost now but really it just boosts high end a bit so that’s likely not what you’re after.
There is of course the Dingwall drive pedal Dingwall 35th Anniversary Pedal - Dingwall
Geoff St. Germaine
Commercial User
- Aug 31, 2001
- 6,267
- 302
- Disclosures
- Owner - St. Germaine Guitars
I thought it was a long shot to get any lead on the bass, but thanks so much! I'll reach out to the contact you sent me. Cheers!
Confirmed. The Gotoh TB47.5 string retainer is a direct fit for a Combustion 5 if anyone is looking to replace their Smoked Chrome hardware with black. I used the factory screws and they sit flush in the bar and line up with the drilled holes. Hooray!
Someone snatched up that 4 string Voodoo that has the Wenge top and Barts for $2900. I guess that is the 2nd or 3rd time that I have seen that one.
I'm looking to convert my newly acquired Dingwall D-Roc custom to drop G with a set of Payson .160 strings. The nut on the bass currently needs to be replaced (it's too low/short) and replaced with a new filed out nut to fit the larger strings. I have founded graphite replacement nuts for the Dingwall D-Roc Standard on Fret Nation. Would these standard replacement nuts work for this purpose?
I've added a link to the item below.
Thanks!
Dingwall Graph-Tech Replacement Nut 4-String NG Combustion
I've added a link to the item below.
Thanks!
Dingwall Graph-Tech Replacement Nut 4-String NG Combustion
First of all, that’s a beautiful D-Roc, congrats!
AFAIK, standard and custom nuts aren’t interchangeable. Jason at Fret Nation is very knowledgeable, though, so I‘d highly recommend just shootin the fella a mail.
Take the bass to a qualified tech and have them make a new nut for it.
Thank you, I absolutely love it
I'm waiting on some .170 strings on backorder so I will email Jason and ask, many thanks for the tip!
I'm in the EU (Spain) and just visited my local luthier. They told me they will be able to do the work once I get a proper replacement nut. Thanks!
Thank you, I absolutely love it
As custodian of both a D-Bird and a D-Roc, I know the feeling
In that case, buy a nut blank of whatever material you want and an appropriate size and have your tech install and file it.
You can get a replacement nut direct from Dingwall or your 'local' dealer is Dr. Bass in Burgos.
The indication that your luthier couldn't make up a new nut for your bass from scratch would trouble me personally.
I had the same thought and will be looking around to see if I can find a more experienced and certified luthier for sure.
Making a new nut is pretty basic luthier work.
As for now, there are lots of DIY tricks to getting a nut working if it’s: too low, too narrow, too high, or slots are wider than the strings.
Personally, I’ve found there’s a fair amount of latitude with nuts. I’ve gone as far as running my basses E-C without changing the nuts from B-G. Even like this, there was rarely any rattle with open strings.
If I do have a rattle or the string is simply too low, I’ll run a bit of heat shrink tubing over the string and settle it in the slot. My guitar is sporting a bit of paper in the high e slot, making the difference between too low and just right. I have yet to go so far as trying the baking soda and super glue build up. The quick and easy tricks have gotten me where I needed to go.
I’ve also opened slots up a bit to make a larger string fit.
Check out YouTube for some video.
My one new, luthier made nut was for an aluminum neck Kramer, made from aluminum. Even that wasn’t super critical because it had a zero fret.
As for now, there are lots of DIY tricks to getting a nut working if it’s: too low, too narrow, too high, or slots are wider than the strings.
Personally, I’ve found there’s a fair amount of latitude with nuts. I’ve gone as far as running my basses E-C without changing the nuts from B-G. Even like this, there was rarely any rattle with open strings.
If I do have a rattle or the string is simply too low, I’ll run a bit of heat shrink tubing over the string and settle it in the slot. My guitar is sporting a bit of paper in the high e slot, making the difference between too low and just right. I have yet to go so far as trying the baking soda and super glue build up. The quick and easy tricks have gotten me where I needed to go.
I’ve also opened slots up a bit to make a larger string fit.
Check out YouTube for some video.
My one new, luthier made nut was for an aluminum neck Kramer, made from aluminum. Even that wasn’t super critical because it had a zero fret.
Jason at Fret Nation has sorted me out and ordered the appropriate nut. I will take a look at this, as I'm nervous making these kinds of adjustments but I certainly need to learn. Thanks to everyone for the assistance, much appreciated.
Jason-cool cat and ‘player-centric’. You should be 90% there if he is in the mix.
After recently discovering a neck bolt that was not tight enough on my 2013 SJ, I thought it a good idea to check the others. Sure enough, all of the bolts on my 2009 SJ/P needed a tweak. If you haven't already, you might want to check your older instruments. John Fox thinks that it may be caused by loss of moisture from the wood over time. Makes sense to me...
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I tend to check stuff like that from time to time. Same thing for the tuners - the Hipshots on my ABII needed a small push with a screwdriver and now it's all good!
