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Dingwall Owners Club

When I measured on my NG3 (which I think has the same measurements as a Z3), the neck pickup was centred where a p bass pickup would be, and the middle pickup was centred the same as a Stingray.

I like middle solo if I have the pickup wired in series, but I only like Bridge/Middle in series if the middle pickup is wired in parallel. Would be nice to install a S/P switch at least for the middle pickup. In either case, I wouldn't want to lose the neck solo option.
Yes - this is key - check your pickup wiring.

I use the middle solo series for a modern P with a bit of aggressiveness, the solo neck series is more for a vintage smoother, round P sound (IME YMMV…)
 
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As an addendum to my earlier post; I’ve been considering another switch with these options. I haven’t checked with Mo to see if it’s possible or not.

(From neck to bridge)
6 Neck Solo - Fat P
5 Middle Solo - Tight P
4 Neck and Bridge in Parallel - Jazz
3 Middle and Bridge in Parallel - Kinda Jazz, Kinda Stingray
2 Middle and Bridge in Series - Stingray
1 All-On - Bazooka to a knife fight
 
Is this the one you're thinking about? I'm considering this 6-way with mid solo option from Fret Nation for my upcoming D-Roc 5 Custom. It has all of the combinations you listed (and I'd like) with none of the ones I don't want. I'd imagine you'd want S/P switches for the 3 pickups to make the best use of it.
Fret Nation 6-Way Custom Rotary Switch.png

6-Way Rotary Pickup Selector Switch for Dingwall + More
 
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As an addendum to my earlier post; I’ve been considering another switch with these options. I haven’t checked with Mo to see if it’s possible or not.

(From neck to bridge)
6 Neck Solo - Fat P
5 Middle Solo - Tight P
4 Neck and Bridge in Parallel - Jazz
3 Middle and Bridge in Parallel - Kinda Jazz, Kinda Stingray
2 Middle and Bridge in Series - Stingray
1 All-On - Bazooka to a knife fight
That’s what I have on my C5 and ABZ5 - except for 1 - BN series instead of all on.
 
As an addendum to my earlier post; I’ve been considering another switch with these options. I haven’t checked with Mo to see if it’s possible or not.

(From neck to bridge)
6 Neck Solo - Fat P
5 Middle Solo - Tight P
4 Neck and Bridge in Parallel - Jazz
3 Middle and Bridge in Parallel - Kinda Jazz, Kinda Stingray
2 Middle and Bridge in Series - Stingray
1 All-On - Bazooka to a knife fight

In this scenario, how would each pickup be wired? All three in series? Or Neck/Middle in Series and Bridge in Parallel?
 
Do you have FDV pickups? I have 3x P-Tones on my Dingwall that has the toggles. The volume difference between series and parallel is significant. Wasn't sure if that's the nature of the beast or if I'm getting more of a difference with the P-Tones.
Had FDVs, switched to SF2s. In both cases I find the jump in output and change to midrange character from parallel to series consistent with other non-Dingwall basses where I’ve had the switching option.
 
Had FDVs, switched to SF2s. In both cases I find the jump in output and change to midrange character from parallel to series consistent with other non-Dingwall basses where I’ve had the switching option.

Thanks! I jumped in line with a deposit and trying to plan out my build. I want to go passive, not really in love with any of the preamps Dingwall uses. And while they look cool, I'm not finding much use for the toggles.
 
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Thanks! I jumped in line with a deposit and trying to plan out my build. I want to go passive, not really in love with any of the preamps Dingwall uses. And while they look cool, I'm not finding much use for the toggles.
I like the Glock pre since it doesn’t get in the way (ie it’s flat with all controls at noon), has an active/passive bypass, and can be a good utility on fly dates when my gear selection is limited and I need to make a tweak mid song. 99% of the time I run it flat and would be happy with a passive bass.

As for the s/p switches; I actually do use these, but it’s situational. I mentioned this earlier in the thread, but on live dates I’m almost always BM parallel with the switches in the default 3X arrangement of SPS. On studio dates the overwhelmingly most popular choice is middle solo with the s/p switch for that pickup set to series. Without the s/p switches I wouldn’t have that option, so for me they’re necessary. On live dates I leave them in SPS and never touch them.
 
Talking about Switches.
Is it possible to mod an existing 3 x or D Roc Switch?
I have both but I would like to have an Ray / Middle and J- Option for my D Roc.

And - do D Rocs really lack of treble? The Treble Pot is working find, but even on 100% it is very dull (New d´addario Nickel Super Long Scale)
 
Talking about Switches.
Is it possible to mod an existing 3 x or D Roc Switch?
I have both but I would like to have an Ray / Middle and J- Option for my D Roc.

And - do D Rocs really lack of treble? The Treble Pot is working find, but even on 100% it is very dull (New d´addario Nickel Super Long Scale)

I wouldn‘t expect the factory switches to be very mod-friendly, as they are pretty compact for what they offer - I don’t think there is much room for changing things. You can, however, experiment with the screw terminal to achieve selections usually not available by wiring in one pickup in the spot of another, e.g. wiring the bridge PU where the neck is supposed to go and vice versa.

Basses with D-roc switches normally come with pickups internally wired:
  • Bridge series
  • Middle series
  • Neck parallel
The series wiring in itself takes off some of the high end. Additionally, the pickups are moved a little bit towards the neck in the birds/rocs models vs. NG/ABs, etc.
 
Thanks! I jumped in line with a deposit and trying to plan out my build. I want to go passive, not really in love with any of the preamps Dingwall uses. And while they look cool, I'm not finding much use for the toggles.
I've heard in a Sheldon interview and also from John (from JohnFoxBass) that the P-tone is supposed to be wired in series only.
 
the P-tone is supposed to be wired in series only

I got two P-tones with s/p switches for each (on a Super-J). I keep them each in series mode all the time, partly because of what Sheldon and J. Fox said, but mostly because in parallel mode only, there's a noticeable volume drop in the G and D strings compared to the A and E strings. Maybe I'm crazy, but that's what I hear.

I keep meaning to find an electronics person who Knows What They're Doing (tm) to verify there's nothing wrong with the wiring, because I think the parallel mode sound is very usable. But it's not the P-tone sound. (I've posted about this before, if this rings a bell for anyone. My reasoning for adding the s/p switches was nothing more complicated than "hey, why not, what's $135 more at this point in the custom order").
 
And - do D Rocs really lack of treble? The Treble Pot is working find, but even on 100% it is very dull (New d´addario Nickel Super Long Scale)

I’ve had 3 of them and none of them lacked treble. That said I always found the all 3 pickup setting too dark for my taste so I used middle solo 99% of the time.

Probably worth checking your strings, twisted strings or tight nuts can cause bad sound.
 

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