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Dingwall Owners Club

I feel dumb. I love my Dingwall's, but I'm short 5'8" and sometimes the reach out to the first fret is a stretch even with the Reach Reducer strap point. So, watching the D-ROC videos I see a lot of them being played standing at an almost 45 degree angle. That sounds like a good idea, maybe I'll try that on my ABZ and see if it's comfortable, then maybe get a D-ROC for my next build which will be coming up soon. Well, in the process of trying it I had to let out the strap which involves disassembling and re-assembling the strap, so I don't do it often. But now with the bass in a 45 degree angle, it just hangs there with no hands on the bass. My left arm is in a really comfortable position and the bass feels like it weighs nothing. Playing up high on the neck is a little awkward, but I never play up there anyways. I like the idea of getting an AB* rather than getting a D-ROC. Not sure it is my thing visually, but if it balanced better. Well, now I know I don't need to buy a D-ROC to get the comfort. Something so simple, but I never tried it before.
 
No routing either the width or the depth of the control cavity required?
Nope. It’s a tight fit, but it works.
IMG_2160.jpeg
 
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Amos' wild custom Dingwall looks and sounds great here

Wonder if he's using the QC that's on his desk and will be cool enough to upload his preset, or if he has some other setup going on.


I'm just glad to see he's finally playing Dingwall. Tone suits Tesseract way better than some of his other incarnations over the years (in my opinion).

Didn't realise this was with another Dingwall too, this isn't the one I've seen him touring with. Wonder what the specs are, that laminate body look is really interesting
 
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According to the man himself, he's using this QC patch that's already on the cloud - pretty cool, for those of us with a Dingwall wanting to get tones like that

 
Does anyone know how Neve preamps work?
A typical preamp is 40-55hz, whereas the Dingwall website says the Neve pre is 20hz.

It seems like it would be easy to have excessive low end in this band, does it work in the same way as a Q factor to prevent this?
 
Does anyone know how Neve preamps work?
A typical preamp is 40-55hz, whereas the Dingwall website says the Neve pre is 20hz.

It seems like it would be easy to have excessive low end in this band, does it work in the same way as a Q factor to prevent this?

It could be more complex than a shelving filter, but perhaps not. From the description "Bass: +/- 12db / 20Hz" it's hard to say is 20 Hz is cut-off, corner or centre (unlikely) for the filter. Also, any other shelving filter is still going to provide all of that boost right down to 0 Hz, roughly speaking, so this isn't necessarily any more of a problem than it is for any other shelving filter, if that is, in fact, what it is. The only issue could be if you wind up grabbing a whole bunch more boost with it because you don't get as much as you want in the higher bass frequencies. If you are running a high-pass filter in your rig then you'll be more of less protected from that anyway.

I've not read any specific reviews of the bass control in this preamp, so my comments are all speculative. Dingwall's track record with electronics are strong, so I assume that this is a really nice preamp that functions well for those who happen to like this approach to onboard EQ. I've never liked 2-band EQs onboard, much preferring control in the midrange over both bass and treble control, but the Neve does have a much lower treble frequency control, which I do prefer. For me, the Glock up at 18 kHz is not useful. I've preferred a couple of preamps with 6 kHz centres for the treble control.
 
I feel dumb. I love my Dingwall's, but I'm short 5'8" and sometimes the reach out to the first fret is a stretch even with the Reach Reducer strap point. So, watching the D-ROC videos I see a lot of them being played standing at an almost 45 degree angle. That sounds like a good idea, maybe I'll try that on my ABZ and see if it's comfortable, then maybe get a D-ROC for my next build which will be coming up soon. Well, in the process of trying it I had to let out the strap which involves disassembling and re-assembling the strap, so I don't do it often. But now with the bass in a 45 degree angle, it just hangs there with no hands on the bass. My left arm is in a really comfortable position and the bass feels like it weighs nothing. Playing up high on the neck is a little awkward, but I never play up there anyways. I like the idea of getting an AB* rather than getting a D-ROC. Not sure it is my thing visually, but if it balanced better. Well, now I know I don't need to buy a D-ROC to get the comfort. Something so simple, but I never tried it before.
This is the same thing I found, lower strap position than normal helped angle the headstock up which also brings it closer.
 
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Which sushi's are you using? Care to elaborate on how the tone changed for you?
On my gig board, a Finally Gen 1 (Lightning Boy DI, no HPF/LPF), UA (Underground Accelerator, Fender Tonestack), at home a More (two tubes, gain knob only, no tone stack), and a Slampegg (Ampeg B-15/B-25). All my SushiBox's are Gen 1, as I was an early adopter. I evolved from a Mesa 400+ rig, to Eden World Traveler 300, to Markbass, with my favorite being the Eden ( underpowered for those non-PA/subwoofer days), which had a tube preamp. By the time we adapted, Eden was bought out.

As to tone, similar to what Sonic Maximizer proponents claim, like taking a blanket off of your cab/cabs, or to my mind, they add a "sparkle" to your tone, with enhanced mids/low mids and more solid highs (less shrillness). Unlike a Sonic Maximizer, you can dial in as much or as little tube grit as you want, all the way to tube breakup/mild distortion. They've taken bland basses, and made them more interesting. And best of all, more of my basses can get close to a 60's Thunderbird vibe (solid lows, massive low mid/mids and useful/pleasing highs). Go over to the SushiBox Secret Society thread for more options, better explanations. The bottom line is there is no snake oil with his products, he considers/implements user input, and constantly improves (when needed) his products, and does repairs at no cost other than shipping when needed.
 
Yesterday I got my D-Roc back, which I lend to a friend. I fell in love again.
The Tone is so versatile, especially because I wired up a 3x Switch instead of the D-Switch. I get my "Jazz Bass" Sound and a Stingray on steroids with a little twist of a knob. Awesome.

And again GASing for a AB1 or FastLane. But I can´t find a correct price list. The one I found online is too good to be true.
 
Pretty much locked my spec. Just need to figure out my finish.
Z3 5 string
Dual Density Swamp Ash
Maple Burl top (photo a page or so back)
Wenge neck
Macassar Ebony (asked for a dark and uniform cut, if they can)
Custom finish
Matching headstock
Matching wood inlays, speedO bar style
Blue Luminlay side dots
FDVs
Neve pre w/ toggles
Extender key on the low string

This bass will _likely_ live in A standard. Either that or Bloodmoon Z will, and this one will live in standard tuning. We'll see when I have both side by side.
 
Pretty much locked my spec. Just need to figure out my finish.
Z3 5 string
Dual Density Swamp Ash
Maple Burl top (photo a page or so back)
Wenge neck
Macassar Ebony (asked for a dark and uniform cut, if they can)
Custom finish
Matching headstock
Matching wood inlays, speedO bar style
Blue Luminlay side dots
FDVs
Neve pre w/ toggles
Extender key on the low string

This bass will _likely_ live in A standard. Either that or Bloodmoon Z will, and this one will live in standard tuning. We'll see when I have both side by side.
Sweet!
 
I got an email from Ryan at Dingwall about the p-tone/FDV issue. They are dead serious. He said that I might be fine now but I won't in the future and the p-tone will kill the middle FDV. o_O
As I want to keep the p-tone I will need 2 PUs to replace the FDVs. Are SFII's ok? And where do I get them?