Dingwall Owners Club

[NOLA Bass]

Has anyone had the experience with P-Tones, at least on 5 strings that the B and E strings are considerably louder than the A, D and G strings?

I have an NG3 tuned to C Standard, so just one note up from a standard B string tuning. My NG3 is modified with a P tone in the neck position and I have no issues with string volume differences across the strings on the bass. The 2 settings I use on are neck only (when playing with fingers) and Neck+Bridge (when playing with a pick), as this is what works for me in my band with my 3 Dingwalls. My NG3 is the only one with the P tone, but I have not noticed any sort of difference you refer to.

 

[NOLA Bass]

My very customized NG3 (refinish, P tone in neck, Canadian bridge, luminlay side dots, SP switches and 6 way selector) is in the classifieds if anyone is interested. LINK TO CLASSIFIED POST

 

[Challanger2]

If only I had the cash for that right now

 

[gustobassman]

Hot off the presses! As far as I know, I've got the first set out in the wild. Jason at FN had La Bella make flats sized specifically for Dingwalls. They just got to his shop today, a set was in my hands by the afternoon.

My 2+ year old Payson flats are starting to make a weird warble on the B string, and it's a lot floppier than ever before. I think it's failing internally. 2+ years with about 150 gigs, majority 3 hours or over- id say they've done me very well. I do have a backup set, but I'm gonna give these La Bellas a shot.

 

[Selta]

Forgot just how much of a workout playing a .170 can be. Thankfully this music isn't the usual tech/death stuff I go for. Also really weird tuning down in F standard, so I have a lot working against me for this. But it's coming together nicely so far.

I keep switching between pick and finger on it, and I'm not sure which I like more. Anyone have pick suggestions for chonker strings? I usually go with Flow Gloss picks, which work amazingly well for B standard and drop A, but just can't quite seem to get really sharp timing with it on the .170

 

[Benko]

NBD : new to me that D-Roc Custom 2021 in Ari Gold!

First forray into Dingwall / Multiscale, this one was local to me so easy deal with an absolute gentlemen (I make a lot of deal online and it's actually really nice to meet the seller face to face).

It came out of the Dingwall shop as a a standard passive D-Roc but the Japan Distributor made, on request, the mod to add a Darkglass Tone Capsule. The Distributor happens to be also an incredible luthier (they performed miracle in difference instance for me) the installation is very clean (see for yourself below), albeit there is only room for 9V

Of course there is passive/active switch in push/pull at the Volume

The mod was made with non-standard knobs but I got the missing two and it should be neatly "complete" next week, I just could not wait before sharing this one.

I usually play 24 fret but I have this new project more rock that does not go above the 12th fret, this one should be fitting.

Now I need to find a dedicated strap!

 

[gustobassman]

Forgot just how much of a workout playing a .170 can be. Thankfully this music isn't the usual tech/death stuff I go for. Also really weird tuning down in F standard, so I have a lot working against me for this. But it's coming together nicely so far.

I keep switching between pick and finger on it, and I'm not sure which I like more. Anyone have pick suggestions for chonker strings? I usually go with Flow Gloss picks, which work amazingly well for B standard and drop A, but just can't quite seem to get really sharp timing with it on the .170

Those are great picks. I use the Flow Gloss 2.0 myself, works very well for me down to .145 for my low A on my Z. Great attack and clarity on each string.

What thickness are you using? I could see a 3.0 maybe working for F# the way I play.. or maybe not.. .170's are pretty darn big, lol.

 

[IvanBassist]

In

NBD : new to me that D-Roc Custom 2021 in Ari Gold!

First forray into Dingwall / Multiscale, this one was local to me so easy deal with an absolute gentlemen (I make a lot of deal online and it's actually really nice to meet the seller face to face).

It came out of the Dingwall shop as a a standard passive D-Roc but the Japan Distributor made, on request, the mod to add a Darkglass Tone Capsule. The Distributor happens to be also an incredible luthier (they performed miracle in difference instance for me) the installation is very clean (see for yourself below), albeit there is only room for 9V

Of course there is passive/active switch in push/pull at the Volume

The mod was made with non-standard knobs but I got the missing two and it should be neatly "complete" next week, I just could not wait before sharing this one.

I usually play 24 fret but I have this new project more rock that does not go above the 12th fret, this one should be fitting.

Now I need to find a dedicated strap!


View attachment 7115654View attachment 7115655

congrats!! Beautiful bass and that control cavity looks tidy!

 

[IvanBassist]

I’m not sure I have any insight for ya but I bet you end up with a super!! lol. Just my wager on the outcome

Jokes aside, Go with what feels right unless you want to force yourself to a challenge.
Challenge is good of course but familiarity and comfort definitely hold stature.

one recent observation. I’ve not been into the FDVs having only really experienced them in a long scale… until the recent SJ acquisition. They are killin it in the new super.

I even just A/Bed my SJ and a Z3 with the same FDV and DG combo, similar woods and the take away is quite different. I still prefer the FD3s in the long scale but am completely satisfied with the FDVs in the medium(even prefer them over FD3s)…. For my tastes of course.

Well, after a lot of playtime with the NG3 and also swapping back and forth with my Supers, I think I will indeed go for a 5 string Super

Now I just need to decide which finish. Maybe go for the same because I really like the look of my basses and 3 times is a charm, or opt for an X-top and a more fancy/adventurous look.

 

[Challanger2]

Well, after a lot of playtime with the NG3 and also swapping back and forth with my Supers, I think I will indeed go for a 5 string Super

Now I just need to decide which finish. Maybe go for the same because I really like the look of my basses and 3 times is a charm, or opt for an X-top and a more fancy/adventurous look.

Maybe same blackburst but a spalted maple X top? Could be killer

 

[AB Nate]

Yes - have been rehearsing with a 70s/80s/90s cover band and I've been using my ABZ with a P-tone in the neck for most of what we play. Glock preamp...pushing mids a bit and dropping the bass does help. I haven't change pickup heights but will probably mess with it a bit.

Pick up heights make a huge difference. Quite important to set those up once you have your action dialled in

 

[EKen33]

Pick up heights make a huge difference. Quite important to set those up once you have your action dialled in

For sure - turns out I'm just a dummy and forgot I had the punch button engaged on my amp (Berg HP2X) and that was doing just enough to cause the perceived issue. Live and learn!

 

[Paajanenae]

Phew, I've been away from this forum for a long time and also recently realized that I've been banned from the Dingwall Facebook group for something like 2 years now for some reason. I just thought that somebody shut the group down but apparently that isn't the case.

Anyway, can you guys give me a quick rundown on the new SP1 and what it's got in it? I couldn't find good specs or pictures anywhere except on two dealer sites, one of which says that all bodies are swamp ash and another says that they're alder I'd appreciate if there were already tone tests as well, I'm really interested in how that P-style pickup works combined with the bridge pickup. Usually I'm not too much of a fan of the PJ setup since it tends to make the D & G strings really nasal.

I'll be trying these out at this years Guitar Summit, but that's like 10 months away, the Dingwall Aqcuisition Syndrome has already bitten me and DAS not good

 

[5StringPocket]

My custom build slot is still a few months away but I'm trying to decide between a Lee Sklar model or a Z3 with the same woods and metallic paint. I know there are many fancy options but I'm trying to keep the cost manageable. The Sklar has 3 SFII pickups and a Glockenclang pre with mid at 250 Hz instead of the stock 500 Hz. I really like the recordings I've heard and saw Lee play live with Lyle Lovett using this bass and it sounded perfect in the mix - thick and warm but with good punch and articulation. The Z3 could have a Ptone neck, SFII in middle and bridge positions, and the Neve preamp. I could swap out the neck SFII for a Ptone in a Sklar if I got one and wanted to try it so the only real decision is custom Glockenclang vs Neve preamp. The Neve gets a lot of love but would seem to work best on a bass with strong mids, not so good on a mid scooped instrument. I don't think that would be an issue here. There are some players that aren't fond of the the way Glockenclang configures its passive tone but that 250 Hz mid with the SFII's seems to deliver that thick punch. I don't need the B-string detuner found on the Sklar, don't have a preference between mandolin vs banjo fret size, and would like to get side luminlays which can be ordered on a Z3. Any thoughts on the custom Glockenclang vs Neve preamp for a bass like this?

 

[IvanBassist]

Phew, I've been away from this forum for a long time and also recently realized that I've been banned from the Dingwall Facebook group for something like 2 years now for some reason. I just thought that somebody shut the group down but apparently that isn't the case.

Anyway, can you guys give me a quick rundown on the new SP1 and what it's got in it? I couldn't find good specs or pictures anywhere except on two dealer sites, one of which says that all bodies are swamp ash and another says that they're alder I'd appreciate if there were already tone tests as well, I'm really interested in how that P-style pickup works combined with the bridge pickup. Usually I'm not too much of a fan of the PJ setup since it tends to make the D & G strings really nasal.

I'll be trying these out at this years Guitar Summit, but that's like 10 months away, the Dingwall Aqcuisition Syndrome has already bitten me and DAS not good

Just DM’d you on IG

 

[IvanBassist]

My custom build slot is still a few months away but I'm trying to decide between a Lee Sklar model or a Z3 with the same woods and metallic paint. I know there are many fancy options but I'm trying to keep the cost manageable. The Sklar has 3 SFII pickups and a Glockenclang pre with mid at 250 Hz instead of the stock 500 Hz. I really like the recordings I've heard and saw Lee play live with Lyle Lovett using this bass and it sounded perfect in the mix - thick and warm but with good punch and articulation. The Z3 could have a Ptone neck, SFII in middle and bridge positions, and the Neve preamp. I could swap out the neck SFII for a Ptone in a Sklar if I got one and wanted to try it so the only real decision is custom Glockenclang vs Neve preamp. The Neve gets a lot of love but would seem to work best on a bass with strong mids, not so good on a mid scooped instrument. I don't think that would be an issue here. There are some players that aren't fond of the the way Glockenclang configures its passive tone but that 250 Hz mid with the SFII's seems to deliver that thick punch. I don't need the B-string detuner found on the Sklar, don't have a preference between mandolin vs banjo fret size, and would like to get side luminlays which can be ordered on a Z3. Any thoughts on the custom Glockenclang vs Neve preamp for a bass like this?

I've always found the treble on the Glock preamp to be set way too high. If you boost too much, it gets a bit fizzy, whereas you can crank the Neve all the way and it stays quiet and musical.
Also, boosting too much 250Hz can get muddy pretty quickly, because you'll be masking the low-end of the mix. It does add "body" to the bass, but I've seen a lot of mixing engineers cutting around 200 Hz with a wide Q to give mixes more clarity.

The side-dot luminlays on both of my Supers have been a lifesaver on a few gigs.

 

[gustobassman]

Action shot from tonight! If you've ever spent time in the San Diego Music scene, you are well aware of the venue called SOMA. All Ages venue, many touring bands play here. We had our first gig there tonight, the rest of the bands on the bill were all kids either in or just out of high school. My main question leading up to the gig- would kids like our music or would the room be empty?

They loved it! The whole front 2 or 3 rows were high school aged girls just loving our lead vox (she's an amazing singer/performer), kids all had their cameras going, we got a huge influx of social media followers after, plenty of them wanted photos with us AND bought merch.

It's one thing when your friends tell you they like your stuff, but *genuine* postive reactions from kids and teenagers is just an awesome feeling. Blah blah blah..

Anyhoo.. my Z in its glory

 

[5StringPocket]

I had SFII pickups installed in bridge and neck positions of my NG3 last May along with a 6-way custom rotary switch and stacked volume/passive tone as shown in this diagram. The middle pickup is the remaining FD3 which came with the bass. Bridge and neck pickups were wired series and the middle pickup was wired parallel in order to tame the B/M series setting. The FD3 wired parallel was so thin and trebly that mid soloed and B/M parallel settings were weak and useless to me. Today, I changed the middle FD3 pickup wiring to series. Wow - big improvement! Middle FD3 soloed sounds much fuller and provides a useful alternative to neck SFII soloed. B/M parallel has that stingray vibe with an upper mid, treble bite and B/M series is a bit louder with more mids and less treble but still useable. The DROC all-on is thick, loud, and massive which has a place in heavier pieces. As posted elsewhere, passive tone is the missing piece in the Darkglass preamp which lets you dial out any brittleness and makes it more flexible.
So many good tones on tap I don't see how it could get much better, but I'll have to sell this to pay for my upcoming custom order...

 

[DangaDanga]

I had SFII pickups installed in bridge and neck positions of my NG3 last May along with a 6-way custom rotary switch and stacked volume/passive tone as shown in this diagram. The middle pickup is the remaining FD3 which came with the bass. Bridge and neck pickups were wired series and the middle pickup was wired parallel in order to tame the B/M series setting. The FD3 wired parallel was so thin and trebly that mid soloed and B/M parallel settings were weak and useless to me. Today, I changed the middle FD3 pickup wiring to series. Wow - big improvement! Middle FD3 soloed sounds much fuller and provides a useful alternative to neck SFII soloed. B/M parallel has that stingray vibe with an upper mid, treble bite and B/M series is a bit louder with more mids and less treble but still useable. The DROC all-on is thick, loud, and massive which has a place in heavier pieces. As posted elsewhere, passive tone is the missing piece in the Darkglass preamp which lets you dial out any brittleness and makes it more flexible.
So many good tones on tap I don't see how it could get much better, but I'll have to sell this to pay for my upcoming custom order...
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I just did the same switch mod yesterday! I wanted to put a volume series/parallel push pull for the middle pup but after I wired I realized the volume hole is smaller than my potentiometer size. Should've checked that one ahead of time. I kept it parallel and it's not bad solo. Similar to the bridge and middle in parallel.

 

[shade_1313]

I just did the same switch mod yesterday! I wanted to put a volume series/parallel push pull for the middle pup but after I wired I realized the volume hole is smaller than my potentiometer size. Should've checked that one ahead of time. I kept it parallel and it's not bad solo. Similar to the bridge and middle in parallel.

Which push/pull pot did you try to install? When I was modding the heck out of my purple NG3, I originally planned on using a CTS push/pull from StewMac, and it didn’t fit (too close to the cavity wall), and I ended up using a Bourns push/pull.