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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
I am jumping back to the discussion about neodymium pick-ups demagentizing AlNiCo pick-ups which lead to me needing to change my set-up. I had 1 x p-tone and 2 x FDV in a Z3 for about 4+ years now.
I was not able to detect any weakness of signal in the FDV next to the p-tone.
I changed the FDVs regardless, just to be sure.
Here's the follow-up: I am now on 3 x p-tone in the Z3 with a Glock pre-amp. The difference is way bigger than I thought. There is more bass and more treble. Not the airy and soft treble but something more substantial, with more authority. The whole instrument is showing more attitude now.
Now, the bridge pick-up can be used stand-alone with just a little help from the EQ (bass). It is not nearly as thin sounding as before. Way more heft.
However, for slapping, the whole bass now fells a bit like a P-Bass slapped .. meaning not as fine and classy like a Sadowsky but more clanky. Finger style is a dream come true though.
I was not able to detect any weakness of signal in the FDV next to the p-tone.
I changed the FDVs regardless, just to be sure.
Here's the follow-up: I am now on 3 x p-tone in the Z3 with a Glock pre-amp. The difference is way bigger than I thought. There is more bass and more treble. Not the airy and soft treble but something more substantial, with more authority. The whole instrument is showing more attitude now.
Now, the bridge pick-up can be used stand-alone with just a little help from the EQ (bass). It is not nearly as thin sounding as before. Way more heft.
However, for slapping, the whole bass now fells a bit like a P-Bass slapped .. meaning not as fine and classy like a Sadowsky but more clanky. Finger style is a dream come true though.
Does anyone know what strings are closest to Dingwall’s for standard scale basses? I love the sound of Dingwall nickel strings and would love to try some for my standard scale basses.
I don't know of anyone. My '09 Super J/P would be easy to convert, as it has two batteries. I guess it is to extend battery life, because it isn't running at 18 volts...
It'd be fairly trivial to test out. I suspect that the Glockenklang is not like the older EMG pres which took really well to 18v. My hunch going in would be that you wouldn't gain anything, and would lose the very long battery runtime in exchange, which I can't see as being worth it.
Did a very quick and dirty test. Would not call this conclusive by any means. I pulled a couple 9v battery clips out, made a series harness from them. Then I pulled the battery cover, both batteries, and plugged the new harness into one of the two battery clips. Lil bit hokey but functional. Played a bunch of riffs from a fill-in I'm doing in a few weeks. I played through my Fractal AX8 into my wireless IEMs, into my 64Audio A6 IEMs - basically my "light portable show" rig.
Then I yanked the harness, put both batteries in as normal, and played the same thing.
Seat of the pants... I could not tell a difference. This is for songs that run the gamit from djent-y grind with pick to pretty clean finger tones, so it got a good grab bag of changes in there. Mostly used middle solo (probably 50% of the time), 3x pickups (25%), and a little bit of M+B.
I think if I wanted to really get particular about it, I'd breadboard up a switching mechanism and switch it back and forth more in real time than the way I did it. Probably would also be worth recording. But I really couldn't tell enough difference with this method to put that effort in, and time is pretty limited at the moment. If I couldn't notice a change in under an hour when running the same material and everything else being the same, that fails the "worth it" test and I don't actually personally care if I could pick out a slight difference in a graph or solo recording.
I went into this with an expectation too, so that could be playing a part.
Edit: Now that I'm thinking more about it, I have my bench DC power supply I could've just wired up and fed it everything between 9v and 18v DC just to see. Alas, I didn't have that clarity of thought beforehand.
Then I yanked the harness, put both batteries in as normal, and played the same thing.
Seat of the pants... I could not tell a difference. This is for songs that run the gamit from djent-y grind with pick to pretty clean finger tones, so it got a good grab bag of changes in there. Mostly used middle solo (probably 50% of the time), 3x pickups (25%), and a little bit of M+B.
I think if I wanted to really get particular about it, I'd breadboard up a switching mechanism and switch it back and forth more in real time than the way I did it. Probably would also be worth recording. But I really couldn't tell enough difference with this method to put that effort in, and time is pretty limited at the moment. If I couldn't notice a change in under an hour when running the same material and everything else being the same, that fails the "worth it" test and I don't actually personally care if I could pick out a slight difference in a graph or solo recording.
I went into this with an expectation too, so that could be playing a part.
Edit: Now that I'm thinking more about it, I have my bench DC power supply I could've just wired up and fed it everything between 9v and 18v DC just to see. Alas, I didn't have that clarity of thought beforehand.
IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
- 3,743
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- Disclosures
- Content Manager at Darkglass Electronics, Dingwall Guitars Artist
I believe DR makes the strings for Dingwall. You could try some Pure Blues
I would check with Helge at Glockenklang.
I just perused some old emails I had with Helge and there were some older ones that were only 9v compatible. That said, there were some also wired 18v.
Before you do too much tinkering I would look for some confirmation if it’s compatible.
I received the used NG3 and found it pretty easy to adjust to the fanned frets. But I think the preamp may be bad, it is really noisy. Raising the high mids above detent creates very audible hissing. Replaced batteries of course to rule that out so not sure what it could be
Sounds great in passive but not sure I will keep it
Sounds great in passive but not sure I will keep it
Just going over my signal chain and appears to have been a loose input. No noise now!
Hey fellas, I have a 4 string ABZ that I am about to list for sale in the classifieds 
and Im wondering if any of you can tell me year model of it by the serial number...it looks like it is 4279 or C279? Any help would be appreciated! This may have belonged to one or two of you, as well.
and Im wondering if any of you can tell me year model of it by the serial number...it looks like it is 4279 or C279? Any help would be appreciated! This may have belonged to one or two of you, as well.
Waiting sucks. Waiting gives time to make sure funds are ready.
The eternal contrasting characteristics of Canadian Dingwall builds.
The eternal contrasting characteristics of Canadian Dingwall builds.
Hello, I will soon receive my first Dingwall (NBD incoming) it was (slightly) modded (more to come) but I'll looking for 2 Dingwall style knobs to make it look like it as stock as possible... I see them being sold for like 20 USD a piece...is it the right price? Any good lead to source a couple of them?
Quite pumped about it!
Quite pumped about it!
Yeah, $20 each is the going price. Check FretNation. I know they sell the knobs for both Canadian and Import basses. Congrats!
Ok, place the ordered and also a few set of Multi scale DR Dragon Skin as they're running a sale
You could email dingwall.Hey fellas, I have a 4 string ABZ that I am about to list for sale in the classifieds
View attachment 7111093View attachment 7111094
Those pick up shells in the ABZ date it to pre 2019. From what I can make of that serial number serial number I’d GUESS around 2014-2015?
Thanks Nate! I planned on emailing Dingwall tomorrow, just wanted some idea so I could put it in the listing....much appreciated!
Obligatory pic of new bass. I'm absolutely loving it so far. Case and bass look like they were never played, besides smelling slightly of cologne lol
