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Dingwall Owners Club

#59,621
cxcxcx said:
I personally set my strings around 2 mm at the 12th fret across all strings, maybe a tiny bit higher than 2 mm but not much. Maybe about a .010 relief. I set my Z and AB1 this way, which is higher than factory spec. Both of my Dingwalls could take a much lower set up, but I have my preferences.

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This was really helpful thanks for that detailed write up. I'll try taking it down to 2mm on all strings and try adjust from there. With the G string at 1.75mm I think I might be able to get away with a lower action. But this is a good start.

Also, thanks for sharing the article, Sheldon uses the following heights:


Sheldon Dingwall: We only have a height spec for the G, A and B strings. For simplicity, we quote the G-string height spec only. The A string is always 1/64″ higher than the G and the B string is always 1/64″ higher than the A. For example G = 4/64″, A = 5/64″, B = 6/64″. The in-between strings (E, D and C on a 6-string) are adjusted after the G, A and B strings so that they form a smooth arc along the tops of the strings with relation to the G, A and B.

The specs for our import line are: Nut height – .006″ (+/- .001″), Neck relief – .015″, G string @ 12th fret – 5/64″.
The specs for our flat-headstock domestic models are: Nut height – .005″ (+/- .001″), Neck relief – .015″, G string @ 12th fret – 4/64″.
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singlemalt said:
I run super light strings. DR pure blues VW’s .040 or lighter sets from Payson strings.

Once I have it tuned to pitch, I adjust the truss rod for a whisper of relief at 12. Then I lower the G until it won’t play clean, and ease it back up until it plays clean. Then the other strings aiming for a subtle arc over the 24th. Then intonation and more fine tuning.

It ends up super low, and I play with a light touch or slap.

Lots of string options! Check with FretNation or Payson.
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Thanks, I'm aiming for super light strings but it's been a challenge to find ones long enough, here in Australia. I'll reach out to Fretnation to see if they have a recommendation for a 40-120 set.

MascisMan said:
These are the specs I set my C5 up to. Not sure if this helps. And sorry the action is in Standard:

View attachment 7104774
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That's good to know so that would
B: 1.98 mm
E: 1.98 mm
A: 1.78 mm
D: 1.5 mm
G: 1.19 mm

This would be a dream setup if I can get it this low.
 
#59,622
IMG_3237.jpeg

New Super P owner as of yesterday. Lake Placid Blue, maple neck/fretboard and tone fusion set up.
 
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#59,624
If you slap a bunch I could see the tone fusion being very useful. Makes the P bass even chunkier slap style with that mid cut it does. That being said, I don’t do it much so I’d probably get more use from standard tone knob. The center detention makes it easy to know which side you’re on and there is still a pretty good range on the tone side.
 
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#59,630
Challanger2 said:
Does anyone know why an AB2 (the older solid body ones) with an OPB1 would have a center detent on the treble knob? I thought that the preamp is boost only, so a center detent seems odd. Just picked one up from CME:
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Hi,
You're right, that preamp is boost only. Counter clockwise from the detent is a tone rolloff circuit we used to add to the Aguilar.
 
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#59,632
Just ordered a used NG3 4 string from Guitar Center. Been wanting to try one forever but never seen one in person so decided to just jump in.

I generally tune my 4 strings to DGCF but don't like the loss of high end with higher gauge strings, so I just use regular gauge and make it work. I think the NG3 will do a much better job!

Have people had success with regular DR strings fitting a 4 string Dingwall?

As far as Dingwall strings, how are the nickels? I prefer bright nickels (Dunlop super bright, DR Pure Blues, Sit Foundations). Are they on the bright side? How long do they last?

Thanks
 
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#59,633
PrimitiveMan said:
Just ordered a used NG3 4 string from Guitar Center. Been wanting to try one forever but never seen one in person so decided to just jump in.

I generally tune my 4 strings to DGCF but don't like the loss of high end with higher gauge strings, so I just use regular gauge and make it work. I think the NG3 will do a much better job!

Have people had success with regular DR strings fitting a 4 string Dingwall?

As far as Dingwall strings, how are the nickels? I prefer bright nickels (Dunlop super bright, DR Pure Blues, Sit Foundations). Are they on the bright side? How long do they last?

Thanks
Click to expand...

Enjoy your pre-enjoyed NG! :bassist: Jason at Fretnation can advise you on the DR's.
 
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#59,635
PrimitiveMan said:
It says they fit according to his website. I have a pack of DR pure blues laying around but just ordered some of the new dragon skin strings in multiscale to try too. Both stainless and nickel

Probably won't get the bass until the new year but will update
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I enjoyed playing the Pure Blues on my Super P a couple of years ago. They are good sounding strings. I've been using Payson nickel rounds for the past couple of years on all of my Dingwalls. :cool:
 
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#59,636
All the DR strings I’ve tried work with my four string, longscale Dingwalls. The E string just makes it past the nut with full outer wraps.

The DR pure blues VW extra lights are my favorites. That’s about as much tension as I want.

I tried the Dragon skin nickel .040 set. A touch more tension than the Pure Blues VW. I could handle that, but i can’t stand the texture of the outer wrap coating. It’s not as raspy as Stainless steel, but close to it. Not as nice as the Pure Blues.

The Dragonskins got moved to the Dbird for pick playing, but I probably will give up on them. Just too rough feeling.

I replaced the Dragonskins with TI jazz rounds and that was much better. Less tension than the Pure Blues, better feel and sound. Also three times the price, but well worth it.

I’ve also run TI jazz flats on my Dingwalls, and Payson strings are my go to nickel rounds. Payson has set me up with sets that are lighter than the DR pure blues. And they sound and feel even better.

Lots of string choices!
 
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#59,637
singlemalt said:
All the DR strings I’ve tried work with my four string, longscale Dingwalls. The E string just makes it past the nut with full outer wraps.

The DR pure blues VW extra lights are my favorites. That’s about as much tension as I want.

I tried the Dragon skin nickel .040 set. A touch more tension than the Pure Blues VW. I could handle that, but i can’t stand the texture of the outer wrap coating. It’s not as raspy as Stainless steel, but close to it. Not as nice as the Pure Blues.

The Dragonskins got moved to the Dbird for pick playing, but I probably will give up on them. Just too rough feeling.

I replaced the Dragonskins with TI jazz rounds and that was much better. Less tension than the Pure Blues, better feel and sound. Also three times the price, but well worth it.

I’ve also run TI jazz flats on my Dingwalls, and Payson strings are my go to nickel rounds. Payson has set me up with sets that are lighter than the DR pure blues. And they sound and feel even better.

Lots of string choices!
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That's super helpful, thanks for sharing

Good thing is I know I love Pure Blues, but am curious to see how the Dragon skin feel for me. I don't mind a little grabbiness and I've heard it wears off eventually (hopefully)

Mostly curious to see if I even like the multi scale to begin with lol

Thanks for the tips about Payson too
 
#59,639
PrimitiveMan said:
Any rumors about the neve preamp becoming available to buy? I wanted to try the John Taylor bass but couldn't pass up the NG3 in the color I liked (celestial blue with maple board) for $1700
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The bass builder on the Dingwall sit has the new preamp as a standard option. You can get it if you want it.

Or do you mean buy it on its own?
 
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