Dingwall Owners Club

[AB Nate]

Wow that was fast. Excellent work. My new SJ5 doesn't have the series-parallel toggles. I'll probably have to send it to Mo's shop for that. I don't have the tools or confidence to do it myself. I assume without the toggles the pickups are each wired in series?

Thanks William. It all went really well, dare I say perfectly thankfully. I have a LHZ preamp I was also considering installing but stuck with the DG for now.

Currently the only discrepancy between the 2 basses is FDV vs FD3. I’ll try and do some recordings as even the body woods are of the same spec.

This bass came factory with the pups wired in series. I do think you’re right in that it may depend on the pick ups and the model.

In addition to that I thought I recalled a comment that was something along the lines of “whatever sounds best per Bass”. Ie “this SJ sounds best with the bridge in parallel”. I don’t know that to be true, especially with the high turnover demand that exists now. I may have just pulled that thought out of thin air though.


I also have the opinion that on the long scale series has a more pleasing impact vs the medium scales. Of course all the variables make that a very situational statement

 

[singlemalt]

On a lighter note, I have ordered up three Luminlay rods. 3mm blue rods @ 60 mm in length. With Fed X shipping, it’s about $75. ($15 shipping)

That’s more than enough for three two octave necks with double dots at 12 and 24.

My blue AB -1, the blue/purple Dbird, and the Cirrus will feel the glow.

I’ll try to take a few pictures of the install, it’s super fast and easy.

 

[Bassheart365]

Thanks William. It all went really well, dare I say perfectly thankfully. I have a LHZ preamp I was also considering installing but stuck with the DG for now.

Currently the only discrepancy between the 2 basses is FDV vs FD3. I’ll try and do some recordings as even the body woods are of the same spec.

This bass came factory with the pups wired in series. I do think you’re right in that it may depend on the pick ups and the model.

In addition to that I thought I recalled a comment that was something along the lines of “whatever sounds best per Bass”. Ie “this SJ sounds best with the bridge in parallel”. I don’t know that to be true, especially with the high turnover demand that exists now. I may have just pulled that thought out of thin air though.


I also have the opinion that on the long scale series has a more pleasing impact vs the medium scales. Of course all the variables make that a very situational statement

Yeah looks like I need to text Dingwall tech support to find out if the FDV pickups in my SJ are individually wired series or parallel. I haven’t received the bass yet to see if I can tell. If they are all series wired I’ll be adding the toggles. What are your thoughts on the LHZ vs the DG? What are you going for?

 

[Challanger2]

On a lighter note, I have ordered up three Luminlay rods. 3mm blue rods @ 60 mm in length. With Fed X shipping, it’s about $75. ($15 shipping)

That’s more than enough for three two octave necks with double dots at 12 and 24.

My blue AB -1, the blue/purple Dbird, and the Cirrus will feel the glow.

I’ll try to take a few pictures of the install, it’s super fast and easy.

Is this something that a qualified luthier can easily do? I like the idea of luminlays, but for some reason it seems like a risky install to me

 

[singlemalt]

There are lots of very talkative Luminlay install videos on YouTube, but this kid just gets it done! He has to do all the layout, which takes more time than the install.



It’s even easier on a neck that already has nice soft plastic dots in holes. It’s easy to drill out the plastic and get to 5mm. Dab of super glue, slip the rod in, cut it off. A little sanding to smooth.

I take the neck off and clamp it to the bench, then I just have at it with my Makita.

I usually do some fret buffing, fingerboard cleaning and oiling, and brand new strings while I’m at it. Even with all that, it’s about an hour of work.

 

[AB Nate]

Yeah looks like I need to text Dingwall tech support to find out if the FDV pickups in my SJ are individually wired series or parallel. I haven’t received the bass yet to see if I can tell. If they are all series wired I’ll be adding the toggles. What are your thoughts on the LHZ vs the DG? What are you going for?

I don’t have first hand experience with the LHZ yet but i really enjoy the HAZ circuits Spector uses. It’s a very different vibe from the DG. You know what the DG is about and the HAZ/LHZ circuits can add a bit of grind when pushed. Less clear and defined then the DG I think.

Instead of putting it in the Z I’ve been contemplating replacing the DG in my “Spector killer” ABZ loaded with EMGs. Really really curious to do this. As is the ABZ really sounds amazing with the EMGs. I would also be curious to increase the fret size on the ABZ like you did on that older buntings ABZ you had.
I find slides can sound grinder with the larger frets.

What was your thoughts on that swap you did?

 

[Bassheart365]

I don’t have first hand experience with the LHZ yet but i really enjoy the HAZ circuits Spector uses. It’s a very different vibe from the DG. You know what the DG is about and the HAZ/LHZ circuits can add a bit of grind when pushed. Less clear and defined then the DG I think.

Instead of putting it in the Z I’ve been contemplating replacing the DG in my “Spector killer” ABZ loaded with EMGs. Really really curious to do this. As is the ABZ really sounds amazing with the EMGs. I would also be curious to increase the fret size on the ABZ like you did on that older buntings ABZ you had.
I find slides can sound grinder with the larger frets.

What was your thoughts on that swap you did?

I played Fender Jazz basses for years before I entered the Dingwall world. I really liked that extra metal for hammer ons, slapping and digging in. I thought that by installing jumbo frets to my AB would add a bit of that vibe. It made a subtle difference but not enough for me to mod any more Dingwalls with larger frets.

 

[Challanger2]

There are lots of very talkative Luminlay install videos on YouTube, but this kid just gets it done! He has to do all the layout, which takes more time than the install.



It’s even easier on a neck that already has nice soft plastic dots in holes. It’s easy to drill out the plastic and get to 5mm. Dab of super glue, slip the rod in, cut it off. A little sanding to smooth.

I take the neck off and clamp it to the bench, then I just have at it with my Makita.

I usually do some fret buffing, fingerboard cleaning and oiling, and brand new strings while I’m at it. Even with all that, it’s about an hour of work.

Do you know what dingwall uses by default in their basses for their side dots? All my mine just have the plane standard ones

 

[AB Nate]

I played Fender Jazz basses for years before I entered the Dingwall world. I really liked that extra metal for hammer ons, slapping and digging in. I thought that by installing jumbo frets to my AB would add a bit of that vibe. It made a subtle difference but not enough for me to mod any more Dingwalls with larger frets.

Fair enough. I’d be looking to do it for the same reasons.

 

[AB Nate]

Get those builds in hands folks. You have 30 more days buffer.

Negotiate the deal hey….

 

[EKen33]

Not sure if this is a barometer or not, but, I put in my final production choices for my custom Z3-5 on 10/4/24 and still waiting (also received the same 2-4 month window at that time). 4 months is tomorrow. Maybe the holidays pushed it back a bit.

10/3 production start date for me, here's hoping we and others avoid any unnecessary additional fees going forward...........

 

[MascisMan]

10/3 production start date for me, here's hoping we and others avoid any unnecessary additional fees going forward...........

I think we will be in luck. Canada tariffs postponed for 30 days

 

[BGroovy]

Someone take over my green/gold SP1 preorder at Fretnation while there's time

 

[Selta]

Someone take over my green/gold SP1 preorder at Fretnation while there's time

Is it a 5er?

 

[BGroovy]

Is it a 5er?

It's a 4. I planned to set it up BEAD. I ended up with too many basses between then and now and I just don't think it will make it into gig rotation. I bought it the second the presale went up, I was probably first in line. I'll honor my commitment and take it if Jason doesn't find someone who wants to claim it out of the first batch, but would rather not have to sell it "used" if someone wants an early green/gold 4!

Jasons says final pricing will be announced this week.

 

[singlemalt]

I checked all my Dingwall side dots today before I ordered the 3mm. The plastic pearloid or plain white dots drill out easily and the 3mm rod is a snug fit. The Cirrus is also 3mm. The Cirrus will be a bit trickier for the upper fret dots because it’s a neck through. I’ll be drilling those with a little hand drill.

The dots I installed on the AB-1 six string are 3mm blue.

My Super P has the Luminlay rods with the black tube outer layer. They look great, and glow nicely, but also stand out in bright light with the black circle. They also measure 3mm.

I prefer the all blue, which look white in daylight. The dots are centered on the seam of the wenge fretboard and maple neck, so they show up just fine either way.

It takes very little light to get the dots glowing, you don’t need the little “charger” light they sell. Going from a well lit space into a dim light, you’ll see the dots glowing. Hit them with the light on your cell phone, and they will be bright for a long time.

Luminlay is a whole lot of fun for a few bucks per bass if you DIY. It’s not much of an upcharge on your custom order, and they can do the face dots, ghost speedo, 12th fret and headstock D as well. If I ever go for a custom, it’ll be all Luminlay.

 

[Akami]

I checked all my Dingwall side dots today before I ordered the 3mm. The plastic pearloid or plain white dots drill out easily and the 3mm rod is a snug fit.

It takes very little light to get the dots glowing, you don’t need the little “charger” light they sell. Going from a well lit space into a dim light, you’ll see the dots glowing. Hit them with the light on your cell phone, and they will be bright for a long time.

Luminlay is a whole lot of fun for a few bucks per bass if you DIY.

Hey, I've been wanting these ever since they came out and after straining to see where I was the other night, you've pushed me over the edge.

Just need to measure what sizes to get for at least my stage instruments and decide on a color. Always assumed it would be green, as I don't like blindingly bright blue led's, but what's your take on the comparison? Thanks for such a great little write up inside this bigger conversation.

 

[NOLA Bass]

The tariff thing stinks. I have a deposit down, but I have not spoken to the dealer about possibly using that $500 on something else. Hope that won't be an issue if so.

Related but unrelated to it, I pulled my heavily modified NG3 off the market. I brought it to practice, and I think I don't really care for the FD3's and P Tone. As such, I was going to put the FDV's from my DBird (I put SFII's in it) into the bass. I hate the 6 way selector, and was going to convert the three s/p switches to on/offs for each pickup. That will then leave me with space for a the volume knob w push/pull for active - passive, a passive tone control, and a 3 band EQ. I was kind of kicking around trying something other than the Darkglass. Curious on everyone's thoughts on other aftermarket preamps people have tried and how they found them.

Here is the bass for reference.

 

[RevOgre]

The tariff thing stinks. I have a deposit down, but I have not spoken to the dealer about possibly using that $500 on something else. Hope that won't be an issue if so.

Related but unrelated to it, I pulled my heavily modified NG3 off the market. I brought it to practice, and I think I don't really care for the FD3's and P Tone. As such, I was going to put the FDV's from my DBird (I put SFII's in it) into the bass. I hate the 6 way selector, and was going to convert the three s/p switches to on/offs for each pickup. That will then leave me with space for a the volume knob w push/pull for active - passive, a passive tone control, and a 3 band EQ. I was kind of kicking around trying something other than the Darkglass. Curious on everyone's thoughts on other aftermarket preamps people have tried and how they found them.

Here is the bass for reference. View attachment 7142609

I have a Bartonii NTBT 2 band in mine with a pasive tone and really dig it.

 

[NOLA Bass]

I have a Bartonii NTBT 2 band in mine with a pasive tone and really dig it.

Did you happen to change this one over from the Darkglass? Curious how you find it differs.