Family photo. Just waiting on the new AB1 Custom to be finished and join the herd.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
There is something cool about an outdoor originals gig with a Dingwall. Good on you and hope you had fun.
Bones
Thanks Bones. The astroturf added to the vibes as well.
The ebb and flow of people over the course of 3hrs was interesting to watch from the stage. (Dinner crowd morphing into the early bar crowd)
Hey, guys! I am a total newcomer to your club and have recently purchased my first instrument: a Super J 4, as I understand the first years of this model.
I got it with an extra P-style pickup.
I have two questions:
1. My instrument has a passive circuit: volume, 4-position switch, tone. And I thought it would be cool to have a second control panel like that, with a preamp. What would you recommend to get in my case? I can buy a standard ‘fender style jazz bass’ panel to put a preamp in there?
2. Question about the pickup that came with the kit. There are two magnets attached to it on the back side. They can be easily removed. Why do you need them? Is it purely for easy storage of the pickup, as both halves can be neatly hooked together?
I got it with an extra P-style pickup.
I have two questions:
1. My instrument has a passive circuit: volume, 4-position switch, tone. And I thought it would be cool to have a second control panel like that, with a preamp. What would you recommend to get in my case? I can buy a standard ‘fender style jazz bass’ panel to put a preamp in there?
2. Question about the pickup that came with the kit. There are two magnets attached to it on the back side. They can be easily removed. Why do you need them? Is it purely for easy storage of the pickup, as both halves can be neatly hooked together?
Those magnets look like the old B-Booster magnets, and might be from that era of Dingwalls, but, I don't recall the Supers needing those. Someone else here likely knows for sure though. I thought they were just for some of the early Combustion basses. The intent of those was for boosting the responsiveness and output of the B, and maybe E (I forget) strings.
You'd want to pull off the control plate before buying anything as a second/new preamp to swap in. I don't think those ones had much room for extra electronics and batteries, but it's been ages since I've opened one from that era up.
Nice score. Is that really your first instrument overall? If so, you scored big time!
You'd want to pull off the control plate before buying anything as a second/new preamp to swap in. I don't think those ones had much room for extra electronics and batteries, but it's been ages since I've opened one from that era up.
Nice score. Is that really your first instrument overall? If so, you scored big time!
I've been the proud owner of an SP1 in black for about a month now. Anyone else have these sharp protrusions on the pickguard?
At first i thought it was just a foil on top. but around the pickups there are sharp bits presumably from machining the pickguard. But the step for breaking the edges was missed. I would need to take the whole pickguard off and use a file to get it off.
At first i thought it was just a foil on top. but around the pickups there are sharp bits presumably from machining the pickguard. But the step for breaking the edges was missed. I would need to take the whole pickguard off and use a file to get it off.
Attachments
Mine doesnt seem to have those. The pickguard is supposed to be real easy to remove. I wonder if those bits can be sanded down a bit to smooth them out? Here is mine:
Attachments
The Pickguards are very easy to remove. I took mine off and covered it with gold adhesive back vinyl so I could see what it would look like while I am waiting for different color options to be available from Dingwall. You don’t have to take the nuts and knobs of like most.
Hi all, proud owner of a D-Roc and Nolly 5 string. Was wondering, and maybe this has been asked answered, but since they are both imports is there a reason why the D-Roc doesn't come with the option of an all maple neck and board? Love both of my basses but when I see a maple board on the custom series it just hits different! Cheers!!
A couple of these slipped past us. You can use a toothbrush to carefully clean out the little white bits.
First post, joined the club couple days ago ;-)
Fist 6 string, I mostly play 5vers.
It’s strung with TI flats ( 3+3 mixed set of jf36x and jf34x singles) right now, but I’ll be testing a lot of string sets in near future.
Stock nickel set was very good as well, but I want to experiment a bit with other sets for now. DR Dragon Skins (both SS and nickel) are next in test queue.
Very positive impression so far, quality is incredible.
It’s like handheld grand piano, incredibly clean and even sounding.
I don’t dig modern metal clunk noise though, it’ll be used a bit differently.
Some minor problems:
1. Can’t get pickups low enough (can’t achieve 3mm on high c while fretting). Feels like something is in the way, haven’t looked under yet.
2. Wireless (line 6 relay) transmitter doesn’t engage properly. (Known problem, worked around by taking out single jack washer to expose more barrel/thread - works).
3. Frets had indentations. Idk if it was there from the start or I managed to leave some marks in 3 days, never seen frets that small. Recrowned and polished - will keep an eye on those. I wish frets were SS.
Very very happy so far, but it’s still honeymoon phase. Can’t imagine how awesome custom shop ones feel and play if import model is that impressive.
TI photos (couldn’t find info on those, hopefully it’ll be useful for someone):
Wrappings do not align as on fender headstocks but whatever lol. High C wraps around post a bit past silk, but TIs are very pliable and this string is thin, not a problem so far.
Bridge is shimmed (shim was included with the bass) to mellow out break angle at saddles, non-tapered strings kind of require it. Shim even has a hole for ground wire. Super simple install, but no photos of the process.
Fist 6 string, I mostly play 5vers.
It’s strung with TI flats ( 3+3 mixed set of jf36x and jf34x singles) right now, but I’ll be testing a lot of string sets in near future.
Stock nickel set was very good as well, but I want to experiment a bit with other sets for now. DR Dragon Skins (both SS and nickel) are next in test queue.
Very positive impression so far, quality is incredible.
It’s like handheld grand piano, incredibly clean and even sounding.
I don’t dig modern metal clunk noise though, it’ll be used a bit differently.
Some minor problems:
1. Can’t get pickups low enough (can’t achieve 3mm on high c while fretting). Feels like something is in the way, haven’t looked under yet.
2. Wireless (line 6 relay) transmitter doesn’t engage properly. (Known problem, worked around by taking out single jack washer to expose more barrel/thread - works).
3. Frets had indentations. Idk if it was there from the start or I managed to leave some marks in 3 days, never seen frets that small. Recrowned and polished - will keep an eye on those. I wish frets were SS.
Very very happy so far, but it’s still honeymoon phase. Can’t imagine how awesome custom shop ones feel and play if import model is that impressive.
TI photos (couldn’t find info on those, hopefully it’ll be useful for someone):
Wrappings do not align as on fender headstocks but whatever lol. High C wraps around post a bit past silk, but TIs are very pliable and this string is thin, not a problem so far.
Bridge is shimmed (shim was included with the bass) to mellow out break angle at saddles, non-tapered strings kind of require it. Shim even has a hole for ground wire. Super simple install, but no photos of the process.
Put a new electronics package in my Super J.
Signal path from front to back:
3X SF2 pickups
Series/Parallel switches
Dingwall D-Roc switch
StellarTone ToneStyler Bass 10
Nordstrand 2B+3A 2-band preamp
The big change was removal of the Glock preamp and replacement with the Nord and the ToneStyler. The Nord is a boost only circuit that Carey described as being similar to a classic Sadowsky preamp. To my ears it lands sonically between the classic Sadowsky thing and a Stingray’s preamp. The ToneStyler is a stepped passive tone control that has more favorable top end roll off compared to a typical passive tone control to my ears. The Nord is a wonderful sounding circuit that somehow sounds great and not at all bloated and overly bright with both controls fully boosted. The specs would make me think the opposite, but it sounds great. That setting on the preamp tempered by the ToneStyler on setting 7 or 8 along with the pickups in bridge-middle parallel, the bridge in parallel and the middle in series is just wonderful.
My custom order SJ5 has a Neve which is a similar 2-band boost-only design and a passive tone control. I suspect it will be very similar. I’ll likely throw a ToneStyler in that one when it arrives as well. Hopefully that one shows up sometime in the next decade
I have had the 2B + SF2 combination in my reggae NG for a couple of years now. Rolling off the passive tone all the way and bringing a little treble back in really makes for a fat reggae tone with nice definition. With the La Bella multiscale flats its a booty shaking ma-cheen!
EDIT: so this is cross posted in the Mesa club, I normally dont share stuff like this.. got hit for a Q&A by SD Voyager mag for a thing called Shout Out SoCal.. my dingwalls are all over it...
Meet Gus Kendrick – SHOUTOUT SOCAL
shoutoutsocal.com
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First post, joined the club couple days ago ;-)
Fist 6 string, I mostly play 5vers.
It’s strung with TI flats ( 3+3 mixed set of jf36x and jf34x singles) right now, but I’ll be testing a lot of string sets in near future.
Stock nickel set was very good as well, but I want to experiment a bit with other sets for now. DR Dragon Skins (both SS and nickel) are next in test queue.
Very positive impression so far, quality is incredible.
It’s like handheld grand piano, incredibly clean and even sounding.
I don’t dig modern metal clunk noise though, it’ll be used a bit differently.
Some minor problems:
1. Can’t get pickups low enough (can’t achieve 3mm on high c while fretting). Feels like something is in the way, haven’t looked under yet.
2. Wireless (line 6 relay) transmitter doesn’t engage properly. (Known problem, worked around by taking out single jack washer to expose more barrel/thread - works).
3. Frets had indentations. Idk if it was there from the start or I managed to leave some marks in 3 days, never seen frets that small. Recrowned and polished - will keep an eye on those. I wish frets were SS.
Very very happy so far, but it’s still honeymoon phase. Can’t imagine how awesome custom shop ones feel and play if import model is that impressive.
TI photos (couldn’t find info on those, hopefully it’ll be useful for someone):
Wrappings do not align as on fender headstocks but whatever lol. High C wraps around post a bit past silk, but TIs are very pliable and this string is thin, not a problem so far.
Bridge is shimmed (shim was included with the bass) to mellow out break angle at saddles, non-tapered strings kind of require it. Shim even has a hole for ground wire. Super simple install, but no photos of the process.
I go for 2mm PU height at treble side. The magnets are under the cover, so it can go less than 2mm
I’m really partial to green and purple. I like dis. CongratsFirst post, joined the club couple days ago ;-)
Fist 6 string, I mostly play 5vers.
It’s strung with TI flats ( 3+3 mixed set of jf36x and jf34x singles) right now, but I’ll be testing a lot of string sets in near future.
Stock nickel set was very good as well, but I want to experiment a bit with other sets for now. DR Dragon Skins (both SS and nickel) are next in test queue.
Very positive impression so far, quality is incredible.
It’s like handheld grand piano, incredibly clean and even sounding.
I don’t dig modern metal clunk noise though, it’ll be used a bit differently.
Some minor problems:
1. Can’t get pickups low enough (can’t achieve 3mm on high c while fretting). Feels like something is in the way, haven’t looked under yet.
2. Wireless (line 6 relay) transmitter doesn’t engage properly. (Known problem, worked around by taking out single jack washer to expose more barrel/thread - works).
3. Frets had indentations. Idk if it was there from the start or I managed to leave some marks in 3 days, never seen frets that small. Recrowned and polished - will keep an eye on those. I wish frets were SS.
Very very happy so far, but it’s still honeymoon phase. Can’t imagine how awesome custom shop ones feel and play if import model is that impressive.
TI photos (couldn’t find info on those, hopefully it’ll be useful for someone):
Wrappings do not align as on fender headstocks but whatever lol. High C wraps around post a bit past silk, but TIs are very pliable and this string is thin, not a problem so far.
Bridge is shimmed (shim was included with the bass) to mellow out break angle at saddles, non-tapered strings kind of require it. Shim even has a hole for ground wire. Super simple install, but no photos of the process.
1. Under the pick ups should be a small chunk of surgical tubing around the adjustment screws IIRC. You should be able to remove or shorten that to lower your pickups before running out of room.
2. Like you said… it’s known and that’s the only on bass fix. The combustion models don’t do angle end cables well.
3. The fret ware is normal on a dingwall. The diagonal frets score with the string contact very quickly but ignore it. It actually then hardens the wire and will stop. It never has any negative effects. If it bothers you, play hard and wait a yr or 2, then give them a dressing. They’ll then be the hardest nickel frets you’ve ever experienced.
Enjoy that thing
IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
- 3,744
- 11,127
- Disclosures
- Content Manager at Darkglass Electronics, Dingwall Guitars Artist
That looks like my former bass. Does it have a big dent on the neck around the 7th fret?
UPDATE: My NG3 left this morning for Glaser Instruments in Nashville along with the parts package I received this morning. Techs get no better than Glaser.
Can’t wait to get it back.
I received two prepaid shipping labels to get them to Glaser by Wednesday. Here’s hoping that happens.
Just quick shout-out to Sheldon, and Michael McDougall. You guys are the best!
Also, a big thank you to Blaise Black, owner of The Vibrato Bar, for his assistance as well.
Can’t wait to get it back.
I received two prepaid shipping labels to get them to Glaser by Wednesday. Here’s hoping that happens.
Just quick shout-out to Sheldon, and Michael McDougall. You guys are the best!
Also, a big thank you to Blaise Black, owner of The Vibrato Bar, for his assistance as well.
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Hi,
Each set of pole pieces should have a magnet charging them. There's two pole pieces per string. We always put the sticker on top of the magnets post assembly. By the looks of it my guess would be that the one magnet has become dislodged and stuck to the magnet under the sticker. If that's the case, it will be no problem to have a tech re-attach it and should work like new. Each shell of a 4-string split P pickup will have two magnets. Hope this help, let me know if you have anymore questions. [email protected]
