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Dingwall Owners Club

Not with a Dingwall but my EHB had dead spots with overtones on 3 frets (6-8), I was able to warranty it - no regrets, they simply sent me a whole new bass.

If placing headstock against a wall cures overtone/ deadspot weirdness - it’s just lost wood lottery that’s hard to impossible to QA in a mass produced instrument.
Up to you if you accept it or not. I’d be mad every time playing anything longer than 8th note on such spots.

Use that sweet warranty, it’s included with the price.
 
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Not with a Dingwall but my EHB had dead spots with overtones on 3 frets (6-8), I was able to warranty it - no regrets, they simply sent me a whole new bass.

If placing headstock against a wall cures overtone/ deadspot weirdness - it’s just lost wood lottery that’s hard to impossible to QA in a mass produced instrument.
Up to you if you accept it or not. I’d be mad every time playing anything longer than 8th note on such spots.

Use that sweet warranty, it’s included with the price.

Yeah I'm actually only about 2 hours from Sweetwater so I think I'll just drive there and try to find a better one to swap.

Should've just gone in person in the first place but to be honest it wasn't even on my radar as my first sp1 was perfect.
 
hi all, I recently acquired an SP1 5-String which I am totally blown away by, I like it much better than the NG3 that I had. I just seems to suit me physical and tonally. I noticed an issue with the bridge height though, I set my action really low (3/64" at the G string, 1/16" at the B) and the screws seem to be sitting up very high, much higher than I've seen in any pics online. the bass didn't come with a separate shim as some have done and looking at mine I don't think that mine has one pre-installed. I'll be reaching out to Dingwall after the holidays are over but until then please have a look at the pic and tell me what you think. thanks!

IMG_1521.jpeg
 
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hi all, I recently acquired an SP1 5-String which I am totally blown away by, I like it much better than the NG3 that I had. I just seems to suit me physical and tonally. I noticed an issue with the bridge height though, I set my action really low (3/64" at the G string, 1/16" at the B) and the screws seem to be sitting up very high, much higher than I've seen in any pics online. the bass didn't come with a separate shim as some have done and looking at mine I don't think that mine has one pre-installed. I'll be reaching out to Dingwall after the holidays are over but until then please have a look at the pic and tell me what you think. thanks!

View attachment 7395976
If you had tapered B and E it’d look much better.
Yeah it’s a bit high, I’d shim it If I was sure there isn’t one already, but I don’t think it’s a problem tbh, shim would take about a single mm from the exposed screw length, but to me it looks like it’s safe to play and is still barely within normal range. (I may be wrong though).

On my NG3-6 C and G are almost completely bottomed out (with shim installed), I actually will be taking it out next string change and raising saddles.
Photo reference. Also non-tapered strings, __very__ low action.
5W4uv2j.jpeg
 
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Making future dingwall plans. i think i am going all in. custom z 5er to replace my yellow 5 ab1 (amazing, but i am sure it will be put aside with a z).

i also want a super p, and may get a 4 sp1 to hold me over the next 2-4 years (as i would get a z first). The white/red sp1 just look so good as is imho.
 
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Question: is it possible to order a Dingwall Combustion, all passive, V/V/V/T controls? Or would that be to be a mod done by myself? I know the pickup selector can get most tones but I am curious if that's option anyone has tried or ordered. Just wondering.
 
Making future dingwall plans. i think i am going all in. custom z 5er to replace my yellow 5 ab1 (amazing, but i am sure it will be put aside with a z).

i also want a super p, and may get a 4 sp1 to hold me over the next 2-4 years (as i would get a z first). The white/red sp1 just look so good as is imho.
I know it's easy to think this way, but, I wouldn't really call a Z an "upgrade". There's differences between ABs and Zs, and Zs command a higher price for the higher effort and work that go into them. But I wouldn't necessarily say they're straight an "upgrade" or "better". Different. I've known quite a few folks who I've had play my ABs and Zs (and Prima) who came away liking the ABs more than the Zs. I hold onto my ABs for several reasons as well - they're still extremely good, extremely capable basses. I get along better with the Z neck profile than AB though, so Z/Prima is what I play 95%+ of the time.

To maybe put it in terms more broadly relatable, it's almost more like "Jazz vs P" than "Squire vs Fender", if that makes sense.
 
I know it's easy to think this way, but, I wouldn't really call a Z an "upgrade". There's differences between ABs and Zs, and Zs command a higher price for the higher effort and work that go into them. But I wouldn't necessarily say they're straight an "upgrade" or "better". Different. I've known quite a few folks who I've had play my ABs and Zs (and Prima) who came away liking the ABs more than the Zs. I hold onto my ABs for several reasons as well - they're still extremely good, extremely capable basses. I get along better with the Z neck profile than AB though, so Z/Prima is what I play 95%+ of the time.

To maybe put it in terms more broadly relatable, it's almost more like "Jazz vs P" than "Squire vs Fender", if that makes sense.
never played a z so i wont pretend i know. i have read that some find the z fretboard too narrow. love my ab1 necks.

the difference i see beyond wood/design is the z pickups being a little more shifted to the treble end.

can you compare the tone? curious if anyone has an1 vs z with same pickups/preamp.
 
I…sort of want to mod an NG3 to passive VVVT and series/parallel switches now, but that’s a whim I’d need a lot more disposable income before I tried it.


Oooh, wait…how about having Volume for each pickup, and running the outputs from the pots into a Mo Mina 6-way?
Or how about:
-3 stacked Volume/preamp control
- custom switch
-passive tone control? In the standard 5 knob configuration.

lol. That’s too much for me.
 
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never played a z so i wont pretend i know. i have read that some find the z fretboard too narrow. love my ab1 necks.

the difference i see beyond wood/design is the z pickups being a little more shifted to the treble end.

can you compare the tone? curious if anyone has an1 vs z with same pickups/preamp.
If I was to speculate on my experiences, I’d say due to the bridge mostly there is increased sustain and a bit more depth to the notes. Ie thicker low fundamental whereas the ABs I think have a bit more snap and attack.

With that of course woods come into play regarding tension, frequency response etc as subtle as that may or may not be.

In addition, I firmly believe that neck mass is a large factor, IE a 4 string vs a 6 string on how the vibration translates.

Regarding necks a big take away for me is playing tension is increased as in less string flex on a more rigid neck like wenge vs maple…. Again affecting tone but also, playability

Anyways, just some of my observations over the years of cycling a lot of “similar” Dingwall’s

And I always think I know what I like then Sheldon creates a new formula! lol.
I am a very content man with what I have but but curiosity and lust definitely creep in from time to time.
 
Always difficult letting one go. Hopefully it's found a good home though! I've definitely eyed it and the 6st you have listed a few times haha.
It is. I am really creating separation from my materialistic tendencies these days though and have my eyes on a different life structure.

Of course I go into the music room and the Dingwall devils call!

I do hope they all find good homes. I am attached more than one should be to these fine instruments I am parting with. Keep lookin!! Hahaha. Maybe one day you’ll pull the trigger. 😈
 
And of course you have to keep your best, right? The best playing bass I've ever had/played in my life is my avatar, one-of-a-kind, made for me, SJ5XXX. Therefore, I still have it, and will never sell it, even though I basically only play 4s these days. My SJ4XXX is close, but the 5er is the best.
 
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Yes. I will not pay such money for an Instrument coming from a far east factory. Not even for a Dingwall. I am sorry for Dingwall and I imagine their situation. But those prices are way beyond the red line.
I don’t disagree that the prices are absurdly high, however, the NG3-5 I picked up is just about on par with my Music Man. I had to adjust a wire underneath one of the pickups as it was forcing it to tilt forward which bugged the crap out of me. Other than that, the quality overall is very good.
 
I…sort of want to mod an NG3 to passive VVVT and series/parallel switches now, but that’s a whim I’d need a lot more disposable income before I tried it.


Oooh, wait…how about having Volume for each pickup, and running the outputs from the pots into a Mo Mina 6-way?
Or how about:
-3 stacked Volume/preamp control
- custom switch
-passive tone control? In the standard 5 knob configuration.

lol. That’s too much for me.
I've been thinking about this too for my NG3. What about a hybrid approach with a Master Volume, 2 pickup selector (Middle/Bridge/M+B Series/ M+B Parallel), and a blend for the neck and 2 pickup selector. That way you can blend between the neck and any combination of the selector.

For my SP1, I've been thinking about moving to VVT, just need to figure out the wiring. I like adding a smidge of bridge to the neck, and can't do that with the rotary selector.