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Dingwall Owners Club

Dude, same.

Definitely don’t have any extra funds lying around, but toying with the idea of letting go of a few more pieces including my NG3 and using the funds towards a custom.

I’m also completely daydreaming of having a fretted and fretless version of nearly identical basses but with inverse colors with ceruse finish.

Anyone have an ovangkol neck on your custom?
Trust me….. I know that feeling. And I’m so mad that I didn’t find out a lot sooner about my favorite bass before you sold off the Fretless version.
 
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Trust me….. I know that feeling. And I’m so mad that I didn’t find out a lot sooner about my favorite bass before you sold off the Fretless version.
And trust me… I’m so mad that I wasted time with other basses for nearly a decade before getting my hands on a Dingwall. because now, everything else I own feels AND sounds… inadequate.

THAT bass was truly somethin else. If you want, I can try and contact the purchaser…
 
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Dude, same.

Definitely don’t have any extra funds lying around, but toying with the idea of letting go of a few more pieces including my NG3 and using the funds towards a custom.

I’m also completely daydreaming of having a fretted and fretless version of nearly identical basses but with inverse colors with ceruse finish.

Anyone have an ovangkol neck on your custom?
Yes to the Ovangkol neck. So far it reminds me of a walnut neck.
 
SP5, D-Bird, AB1 here.
Serious post -- sound off if you can/would want to make a Seattle-area Dingwall Get Together. @Dr. Cheese you'd of course be invited, and I bet we could make it work out to have you up here if the timing works out.

My summer is fairly busy, so Sept onward is when we'd have to target. I can check with all the contacts I have for venues to host from when I did the PacNW bass gtg stuff several years ago, just need a head count before I start the wheels in motion.
Autumn would work best for me, too, and my work is pretty flexible.
 
Y’all see this?!?!?


I was hanging with Cormac (McGrath) and Jason the other day and got to try this out. Cormac installed one on an NG3. It's way cool, the switch rotation is nice and easy, the sounds are all very useful, no real noise when rotating the switch to a new pickup selection - i like the ability to save a pup setting and quickly recall it, but in my case its just too many options. I tend to find a setting or two and stay there. Even the new KK3 and all its switching options, i use maybe 2.

HOWEVER- for those that play multiple styles and musical variations- even within the same song- this may be your ideal switch. Plenty of options, the ability to set and recall a "favorite" on the fly with a simple click is really neat and easy to do in the middle of a tune for example. Way less resistance when switching than the Dingwall switch too. Might be preferable for some.
 
I was hanging with Cormac (McGrath) and Jason the other day and got to try this out. Cormac installed one on an NG3. It's way cool, the switch rotation is nice and easy, the sounds are all very useful, no real noise when rotating the switch to a new pickup selection - i like the ability to save a pup setting and quickly recall it, but in my case its just too many options. I tend to find a setting or two and stay there. Even the new KK3 and all its switching options, i use maybe 2.

HOWEVER- for those that play multiple styles and musical variations- even within the same song- this may be your ideal switch. Plenty of options, the ability to set and recall a "favorite" on the fly with a simple click is really neat and easy to do in the middle of a tune for example. Way less resistance when switching than the Dingwall switch too. Might be preferable for some.
The McGrath switch doesn’t include the Dingwall All On setting (bridge and middle in parallel paired with the neck in series), but it does include two alternate all on settings (all three in parallel, and bridge and middle in series paired with the neck in parallel). I’ve often been curious about the sound of the latter compared to the Dingwall all on. Were you able to compare those settings at all?
 
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The McGrath switch doesn’t include the Dingwall All On setting (bridge and middle in parallel paired with the neck in series), but it does include two alternate all on settings (all three in parallel, and bridge and middle in series paired with the neck in parallel). I’ve often been curious about the sound of the latter compared to the Dingwall all on. Were you able to compare those settings at all?

yep the all on in series is MASSIVE. like HUGE. I have previous expereince with the all 3 in parallel, the new KK3 has so that setting, so I was familiar with that. The MGrath setting seemed similar. If i had to analyze it - its a little less fat than the D-roc All on setting you described above. Very useful, just a little less beef in the mids. Like a big, balanced stingray tone.

The all on series was nuts. We had to bring the amp gain down quite a bit. If you need to strip paint or do some light demo work, this will suffice. Just a gigantic sound. Id love to try it with a passive tone rolled off and see how thick it could get.
 
yep the all on in series is MASSIVE. like HUGE. I have previous expereince with the all 3 in parallel, the new KK3 has so that setting, so I was familiar with that. The MGrath setting seemed similar. If i had to analyze it - its a little less fat than the D-roc All on setting you described above. Very useful, just a little less beef in the mids. Like a big, balanced stingray tone.

The all on series was nuts. We had to bring the amp gain down quite a bit. If you need to strip paint or do some light demo work, this will suffice. Just a gigantic sound. Id love to try it with a passive tone rolled off and see how thick it could get.
Keep us posted on any recordings so we could hear it if possible! I’ve got a bass coming in January so to hear the 12 position switch could be an install but I already have the six and the new bass is definitely getting that but probably this more so with great reviews
 
I left the code unlocked, there is many more pickup combinations possible, including the Dingwall All On, bridge/middle with neck series. I'd love to eventually make a simple app to let you easily access them all. I have to make back some of the money its cost me to get this far before I invest more into it though. As of right now you'd need Arduino IDE and the correct board settings to access it.

Position 11 right now is bridge/middle series with neck parallel. So there is actually three all on settings, just not the dingwall bridge/middle with neck series.

I did indeed install one in a dingwall last week, pretty straight forward, you’ll need to solder the black and green wires of the middle pickup together to match the others. Send the red wire from each pickup to positive, the white wire to negative, and the shield to any negative or ground.
You can daisy chain the battery positive and negative from the same terminals on the darkglass. Note that the 4-way switch you are replacing has four grounds on the right, and the yellow wire is for the battery negative. Run that yellow cable to the battery negative of your preamp and then daisy chain to the 12-way switch; this ensures both units are not drawing power when the jack is removed. Just make sure the battery negative is not making contact with the either active units when the jack is removed. When the jack is removed see if you can hear the 12 way's relays clicking still, you dont want that.

I've attached an in progress install guide
 

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I left the code unlocked, there is many more pickup combinations possible, including the Dingwall All On, bridge/middle with neck series. I'd love to eventually make a simple app to let you easily access them all. I have to make back some of the money its cost me to get this far before I invest more into it though. As of right now you'd need Arduino IDE and the correct board settings to access it.

Position 11 right now is bridge/middle series with neck parallel. So there is actually three all on settings, just not the dingwall bridge/middle with neck series.

I did indeed install one in a dingwall last week, pretty straight forward, you’ll need to solder the black and green wires of the middle pickup together to match the others. Send the red wire from each pickup to positive, the white wire to negative, and the shield to any negative or ground.
You can daisy chain the battery positive and negative from the same terminals on the darkglass. Note that the 4-way switch you are replacing has four grounds on the right, and the yellow wire is for the battery negative. Run that yellow cable to the battery negative of your preamp and then daisy chain to the 12-way switch; this ensures both units are not drawing power when the jack is removed. Just make sure the battery negative is not making contact with the either active units when the jack is removed. When the jack is removed see if you can hear the 12 way's relays clicking still, you dont want that.

I've attached an in progress install guide
Feel free to DM me, my day job is software engineering, and it won't be AI slop :D
 
Re, autumn Dingwall PacNW get together.
I debated started a thread in the bigger gathering subforum, but, I really need to keep it on the smaller side, and keeping it dingwall focused this time.

A friend of mine owns a mead hall in Tukwila, WA. Really, really easy to get to just off of 405 freeway.

So I need an accurate headcount of folks coming. We'll probably have to limit it to ~3 amps, which, to me seems reasonable anyway as we'll want to better hear what we're comparing and what not.

If you all can help me -- if you are reasonably sure you'll make this, please put your name on this list
Link to the google sheet

That'll help me make sure we'll comfortably fit in the meadery and so on, plus help me pick the best date to host it. The sooner folks can do this, the sooner I can get it locked in and everything in motion!
 
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I left the code unlocked, there is many more pickup combinations possible, including the Dingwall All On, bridge/middle with neck series. I'd love to eventually make a simple app to let you easily access them all. I have to make back some of the money its cost me to get this far before I invest more into it though. As of right now you'd need Arduino IDE and the correct board settings to access it.

Position 11 right now is bridge/middle series with neck parallel. So there is actually three all on settings, just not the dingwall bridge/middle with neck series.

I did indeed install one in a dingwall last week, pretty straight forward, you’ll need to solder the black and green wires of the middle pickup together to match the others. Send the red wire from each pickup to positive, the white wire to negative, and the shield to any negative or ground.
You can daisy chain the battery positive and negative from the same terminals on the darkglass. Note that the 4-way switch you are replacing has four grounds on the right, and the yellow wire is for the battery negative. Run that yellow cable to the battery negative of your preamp and then daisy chain to the 12-way switch; this ensures both units are not drawing power when the jack is removed. Just make sure the battery negative is not making contact with the either active units when the jack is removed. When the jack is removed see if you can hear the 12 way's relays clicking still, you dont want that.

I've attached an in progress install guide
This looks pretty awesome and I'm seriously considering. One question from what you've seen - how does it affect battery life? Is it always on? Or does it follow the "once the cable is unplugged, it is off" rule? Edit: I see the answer to this one now - don't know how I missed that.
 
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This looks pretty awesome and I'm seriously considering. One question from what you've seen - how does it affect battery life? Is it always on? Or does it follow the "once the cable is unplugged, it is off" rule? Edit: I see the answer to this one now - don't know how I missed that.
So you actually asked two questions here and one is indeed answered -- it'll turn off when unplugged so long as it's wired properly.

The other question is the one you wrote, "how does it affect battery life?". Doing a little napkin math based on the components I see, and making some assumptions about how the relays work and are powered (They're TE Axicom IM, but I can't tell if latching vs non), it's anywhere from 5mA to 20mA running, at a slightly educated guess.

For comparison, the Glock pre draws ~3mA, and the DGTC draws ~2.5mA IIRC.
 
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Some basses are so nicely built , play so
well, sound so nice up and down the neck , and sound so amazing that they will make you sell off most everything else .

Seems to me that with makers like MTD Kingston and Dingwall , the day of the Chinese boutique has arrived. The thing that makes these 2 lines stand out is the work that goes into them in New York and Canada. The build quality and components are top notch.

The crew in China builds a strong foundation and the crews in North America fill out the details.