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Dingwall Owners Club

Noticed today that my E-string* is buzzing on my ABZ5 — more notably up to the 12 fret but also beyond it. (I’m guessing it’s been like that for a while — I just happened to notice it today after upgrading to a better sound system)

Before I start fiddling with the neck, any suggestions on what to try first? Is it possible that the string might be bad? (no buzz on the other strings) I guess I could try putting on the old E-string and see how that sounds.

* I’ve been using Dingwall Nickel Plated Steel Long strings since September. (Dingwall’s Dingwall Voodoo Stainless Strings prior to that).
 
In general, buzzing between the nut & 12th fret means your neck is too flat (or even backbowed) while buzzing from the 12th fret on up typically indicates a bridge saddle too low.

I'd try loosening the truss rod a bit (1/4 turn or less) give it a day, check for buzzing, and repeat.

Once you get enough relief in the neck, you might want to slightly lower your bridge saddles to get the action back to where you like it.
 
Noticed today that my E-string* is buzzing on my ABZ5 — more notably up to the 12 fret but also beyond it. (I’m guessing it’s been like that for a while — I just happened to notice it today after upgrading to a better sound system)

Before I start fiddling with the neck, any suggestions on what to try first? Is it possible that the string might be bad? (no buzz on the other strings) I guess I could try putting on the old E-string and see how that sounds.

* I’ve been using Dingwall Nickel Plated Steel Long strings since September. (Dingwall’s Dingwall Voodoo Stainless Strings prior to that).

If it's just the E that's buzzing I'd try replacing the string first. A string with loose windings has a very distinctive tone. It's sounds more maraca-like than fret buzz.
 
I'm getting ready to order a DW. Like others I will not be able to try one first, can someone compare both the 4 and 5 string necks to more common basses . I'll be getting an ABZ 4 or 5

Both my former ABZ5 and my beloved SP5 are a D shape with a quite large flatter surface, which doesn't remind me of any other bass I've played.
On the other hand, my SJ4 has a rather traditional Fenderish C-shape which I'd guess the ABZ4 must resemble. Maybe someone can confirm.
 
In general, buzzing between the nut & 12th fret means your neck is too flat (or even backbowed) while buzzing from the 12th fret on up typically indicates a bridge saddle too low.

I'd try loosening the truss rod a bit (1/4 turn or less) give it a day, check for buzzing, and repeat.

Once you get enough relief in the neck, you might want to slightly lower your bridge saddles to get the action back to where you like it.

Good stuff -- thanks! :thumbsup:
 
I've just got my first Dingwall, a Version 4 Combustion that Barry says was made in the Proto shop. Could be the first V4 I suppose. Has a 3 band EMG pre and can be played either active or passive, (in passive the treble control acts as a tone control).

Wdgn5hY.jpg


Best of all, it's Candy Tangerine!
 
I've just got my first Dingwall, a Version 4 Combustion that Barry says was made in the Proto shop. Could be the first V4 I suppose. Has a 3 band EMG pre and can be played either active or passive, (in passive the treble control acts as a tone control).

Wdgn5hY.jpg


Best of all, it's Candy Tangerine!

That is a nice looking bass!

How do you find the fit and finish of the new Combustion?
 
Perhaps "made" is not the best word. I think "assembled" would be closer to the truth, but then I don't really know. Maybe you are right.

It is truly awesome. You can easily spend all day playing with the tones. The 4-position mix switch combined with active or passive gives you tons of options before you even touch the tone or EQ.

When I took it to my guitar tech to get TIs put on, he was impressed by the excellent intonation string to string, and he's not an easy guy to impress.