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Dingwall Owners Club

I couldn't live with the bridge hole that's uncovered. If the Payson bridges were just a smidge bigger (to fully cover the bridge holes) I would buy 2 in a heartbeat.

Check the last post of this thread where I converted my NG2 to NG3. I had already filled the holes when I thought of using a black bushing or bearing to fill the hole.

Dingwall NG2 to NG3 conversion
 
Check the last post of this thread where I converted my NG2 to NG3. I had already filled the holes when I thought of using a black bushing or bearing to fill the hole.

Dingwall NG2 to NG3 conversion
Something like that would be easy to swing, but I'd rather the bridge be 2-3 mm bigger in the appropriate dimension and cover the hole. I'm not a crafty or patient guy, so I'm fairly certain in an attempt to fill or cover the hole I would very likely damage the bass in some other way.
 
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Something like that would be easy to swing, but I'd rather the bridge be 2-3 mm bigger in the appropriate dimension and cover the hole. I'm not a crafty or patient guy, so I'm fairly certain in an attempt to fill or cover the hole I would very likely damage the bass in some other way.

That's part of the (white knuckle, cold sweat, impending doom) fun of modifying any bass!
 
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Installing a Payson bridge on my Combustion???

I have a brand new Payson bridge sitting on my desk. I have installed several Bad Ass bridges and others over the years. Mostly swap outs. Those have been done either when I was too young to fear and/or on $100 pawn shop instruments.

The Payson bridge came with -0- instructions so I guess it must all be self evident, except it isn't.

1. The information says it is 19mm and adjustable to 18mm, since the Combustion is 18mm, how do I adjust it? I don't see any side to side adjustment at all.

2. With a straight bridge, it is pretty simple to draw a centerline from the fretboard, square it up on a 90, center it and bolt it on. With the multi-scale this looks more complicated to me. I saw a step by step of @Jeff Roller's NG3 and he used existing holes to bolt it on.

3. I have seen a Payson bridge on something in a photo that looked to me like the string did not have a straight path across the saddle to the anchor point. Is this an issue or does it even matter?

Am I overthinking this? I can take it to a local guy next week and have him do it, or I can give it a shot myself.

Kirk, the 2 Allen set bolts parallel to each other at the front of the saddle adjust your action up and down. Most people choose to have the Saddles parallel with the bottom of the bridge plate. You can adjust them "cocked" to follow the radius of the fret board as well.

The set screw on top behind them is your side to side adjustment. Turn the Allen bolt one way, and the witness point shifts either left or right. Turn it the opposite way and the witness point adjusts the other way. There's nothing to lock down with that Allen bolt.

Technically if you adjusted all the witness points in towards the A string, you can achieve 17mm spacing if you like that Ibanez tight spacing feel.

@Jeff Roller has the best idea on the Combustions to hide that hole if you wish.
 
Kirk, the 2 Allen set bolts parallel to each other at the front of the saddle adjust your action up and down. Most people choose to have the Saddles parallel with the bottom of the bridge plate. You can adjust them "cocked" to follow the radius of the fret board as well.

The set screw on top behind them is your side to side adjustment. Turn the Allen bolt one way, and the witness point shifts either left or right. Turn it the opposite way and the witness point adjusts the other way. There's nothing to lock down with that Allen bolt.

Technically if you adjusted all the witness points in towards the A string, you can achieve 17mm spacing if you like that Ibanez tight spacing feel.

@Jeff Roller has the best idea on the Combustions to hide that hole if you wish.

If you copied this response and copied my installation to one sheet, there's your installation and use instructions!
 
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Couldn't resist, just pulled the trigger on this - alder/maple, passive with P-tone in the neck. Should go well with the SJ5!
 
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Upon the suggestions of the group, this is how my ABZ, SP, and Pedaltrain Nano are moving to Belfast with me on Tuesday.

Golf club travel bag from Amazon. $55, meets travel requirements of every airline I've checked when you are buying a seat for an instrument. This is an important distinction. If I wasn't buying a ticket for my basses, this would not be a good option, there is no padding in this bag.

Where I'm holding it open in the first pic is just enough room to fit my pedalboard.