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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
While I take your point there were some serious upgrades between v1 and v4 that made the combustion an option for me. I really don't like the v1.
I'm assuming it's colours and maybe a small hardware change in which case a 2017 will be joining my stable.
Yeah. After letting it soak over me for 2 days... I have to pass. I'd love to find a way and afford it, but, I can't and shouldn't. I could dump it on a credit card and pay it off in ~2 months, but, that is just a dumb idea all around. It is such an amazing instrument. I hope someone else picks it up soon. If I were playing and recording enough, I could probably justify it... but I just left one band, so I'm down to the theatrical heavy metal, and a couple of recording-only projects, plus the misc session work I do with the small movie studio folks I work with.
IvanBassist
Commercial User
- Jun 8, 2008
- 3,744
- 11,128
- Disclosures
- Content Manager at Darkglass Electronics, Dingwall Guitars Artist
Does anybody happen to have a picture of the routing underneath the pickguard for the new style of Combustion or NG2?
BurningSkies
CRAZY BALDHEAD
- Feb 20, 2005
- 27,956
- 20,348
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- Endorsing artist: Dingwall Guitars
Primas are obviously beautiful. A sort of exercise on how far the shop can take their skill and apply it to your dream bass. Now, if you loved the FEEL of the neck and the overall ergonomics of the instrument...look for a late-era Zebra. You should be able to get in at half that cost or slightly less. Different Zebras have different levels of customization or materials, so if you can find one that's fairly simple, that's say 2004-current, you're probably going to be happy with the feel.
Sorry for the poor photo quality. I took this picture of my Ducati White NG2 3 days ago. Thinking about adding a 3rd pickup.
I loved the super J. It was incredible. I have had 4 different 37" dingwalls now and just found that I prefer the longer scale.
I saw this beauty on the wall today. They are always soooo damn tempting.
I hear you. I feel like the hack with a Steinway. But it doesn't matter. I love it and it sounds great. I'm blessed to have it.
Hell, I "only have" two ABI's and I, too feel like the hack with two Steinways!
Installing a Payson bridge on my Combustion???
I have a brand new Payson bridge sitting on my desk. I have installed several Bad Ass bridges and others over the years. Mostly swap outs. Those have been done either when I was too young to fear and/or on $100 pawn shop instruments.
The Payson bridge came with -0- instructions so I guess it must all be self evident, except it isn't.
1. The information says it is 19mm and adjustable to 18mm, since the Combustion is 18mm, how do I adjust it? I don't see any side to side adjustment at all.
2. With a straight bridge, it is pretty simple to draw a centerline from the fretboard, square it up on a 90, center it and bolt it on. With the multi-scale this looks more complicated to me. I saw a step by step of @Jeff Roller's NG3 and he used existing holes to bolt it on.
3. I have seen a Payson bridge on something in a photo that looked to me like the string did not have a straight path across the saddle to the anchor point. Is this an issue or does it even matter?
Am I overthinking this? I can take it to a local guy next week and have him do it, or I can give it a shot myself.
I have a brand new Payson bridge sitting on my desk. I have installed several Bad Ass bridges and others over the years. Mostly swap outs. Those have been done either when I was too young to fear and/or on $100 pawn shop instruments.
The Payson bridge came with -0- instructions so I guess it must all be self evident, except it isn't.
1. The information says it is 19mm and adjustable to 18mm, since the Combustion is 18mm, how do I adjust it? I don't see any side to side adjustment at all.
2. With a straight bridge, it is pretty simple to draw a centerline from the fretboard, square it up on a 90, center it and bolt it on. With the multi-scale this looks more complicated to me. I saw a step by step of @Jeff Roller's NG3 and he used existing holes to bolt it on.
3. I have seen a Payson bridge on something in a photo that looked to me like the string did not have a straight path across the saddle to the anchor point. Is this an issue or does it even matter?
Am I overthinking this? I can take it to a local guy next week and have him do it, or I can give it a shot myself.
It's basically the same design as Hipshot
There are three adjustment screws on each saddle. Two are for saddle height and the other is for spacing.
Just loosen the screw a little and move the saddle to the left or right, then tighten it back down.
Once you loosen it you'll see how it moves.
I got nothing on the other questions, but I'm strongly considering "upgrading" my bridge mainly because I want it in black.
Use the front holes, it should line up perfectly. The back set screw on the saddle adjusts the side to side spacing of the string, the two front set screws set the height.
I couldn't live with the bridge hole that's uncovered. If the Payson bridges were just a smidge bigger (to fully cover the bridge holes) I would buy 2 in a heartbeat.
