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Dingwall Owners Club

Me:
large flake anything - no
Aquamarine and other "vintage Fender colors" - no
Mattes - not so much, though the original matte black combustion was pretty cool
Metallic candy colors - yes
Oranges - yes yes
Purple - yes
Woods - yes
Colored woods - yes
Speedo bars look cooler than dots
 
Some sun shots to show the metallic purple within the swirl!
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All the talk of color is so interesting. Being both a keyboard player and a bassist, it is interesting to see the crazy variety compared to keyboards. Black, white, gray, the occasional red or blue and that is about it. I'd buy one of the Orange Waldorfs if it wasn't so huge. But on basses, the world is your oyster (where did that saying come from anyway :cautious:). You name the color, you can pretty much get it, do you like wood, color, wood and color, matte, gloss, dots, no dots, speedo bars, blocks, super fancy inlays, bursts, fretted, fretless, etc. That is also a problem when selling (depending on who sees your ads and whether they have the cash). There is an awesome Z3 for sale in the classifieds. Pretty much exactly the spec I want. But it is green and has block inlays, both of which are not me. But in the end, I'd rather have the variety. I'd love a metallic orange synth with reverse color keys. I suppose I could have it custom done, but for me there is a point at which, while beautiful, I can't justify the cost. This applies in the bass world as well.

Oh if I only had the extra moola. That green gem would be sooo mine. And I don't LOVE green but for me it gets to a certain point of acceptance. I mean it is basically priced as new ( and worth every penny) and not my spec but sooo darn close to a spec I would do(perhaps different colour) that I would love to bring that lucky charm home. Oh the wenge and zirocote. Quilted maple goodness. Ugh..... I've been trying to clear that one from my mind.... thanks NaH. My 2 main players I bought used and they weren't the basses I would have spec'd but gawd do I love them.
 
Guys...I really really like this bass. I spent the morning doing my regular unamplified exercises and just did a couple hours amplified. I'm really impressed with the tone, playability and quality of the build. This NG-2 is just as much a burner as any AB, Z or Voodoo. We go out again the first week of February, and I'll be taking this an no backups with confidence.

The neck is very comfortable and really replicates what I remember of my AB1, except the finish is really smooth and feels great, while the AB had the wax finished neck. The wood on the neck is really well matched and there's not any sign of seam-sprout. The maple is very nicely uniform without any standout funkiness visually. fretboard shoulder round is totally comfy

The finish is also uniform and without any imperfections that I've gotten on other import instruments. Neck pocket is tight tight, pickguard also doesn't have any 'play' in it's fit or cut. I don't have any problem with the new bridge. Seems to be solid, the saddles are chunky, but I also don't palm the bridge ever, so if you do, I can understand that the allen screw tops might not be as comfortable as the Z or AB bridges.

The bass came with a just a little relief in the neck (where I like it) and the action is Dingwall low. No buzzes or high spots. Fret ends are nicely treated and there's no sharp anything. It looks like someone's put some real attention to them. No sprout either but the bass is only a week out of the shop and I keep our relative humidity around 40% here in the house (plus or minus 5). The nut is clean and well cut, no sharp edges or weirdness. String tree has no loose screws. ; )

I wasn't sure I'd take to the Darkglass preamp, but it's actually a really interesting take on things and I think it probably will cover a lot of ground for people. I know some are worried about it really doing a 'modern rock or slappy/tappy thing and not much else...and I don't feel that way. Yes it does that (and well) but you can also get it to smooth out and round off really well. The 500hz mid (low/mid) is well implemented. If you want bring it up and you've got the high-mid flat or up a bit you get some aggressive snarly vibe from it (clean though). If you dial it back just a touch it smooths out your tone really nicely. Depending on where you have the high mid, it acts sort of as a 'clarity' control and you can ride it in small increments to control note definition. The low at 70 sounds really big. A little goes a long way. I'll have to play with this with my real rig on stage, but a bit of bump then working the low-mid control was most of what I was doing. It's got to be a fairly wide Q. The high-mid control at 2.8k is also nicely voiced. For most of what I do, I roll it off a lot, but in doing so it does preserve the stuff in the far upper treble range (Sheldon mentioned I may need to apply my amp's treble EQ in a slightly different way). But actually just a little bit up there is nice. Just a little bit of the percussive thing added in.

I found myself mostly in the neck/bridge parallel (which is not a surprise) but was surprised to find that the neck/middle series setting is totally useable as well...I ended up pulling out a little more of the 500hz and adding a little more low to fill it out and totally workable for standard finger style playing. I don't think anyone needs to be worried that this is only a bass for the heavier stuff.

Electronics are clean and clear, FD3's sound fantastic as usual... and I didn't experience any hums, buzzes or anything All up to snuff.

I like the charcoal-chrome hardware visually. It's got some shine and reflection but isn't silvery. I think it's a really good fit for the purple finish. I will say that the finish on the hipshot tuners has a little wave to it, I'd guess that's probably the closest you'll find to a negative to the instrument's aesthetics. But that's also I'm guessing the concession to pricepoint. They work just fine, and don't feel like they're any kind of downgrade though. I'm also probably going to drop on a set of the Dingwall shop-made rubber knobs. I just like them and am a creature of habit. I also put on a set of Dunlop straplocks. They make me feel more secure, and it means I can use my various straps interchangeably.

Some detail pictures for y'all. I apologize for the background...it was the best lighting in the house today. Note that this is an NG-2 (as labeled on the box) that's had a-post-factory aftermarket conversion by a qualified luthier. I can't speak to what the new 2018 model will do differently or any changes for that.

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Did you have any issue with using the wider screw on the strap button with the Dunlop? I was going to install those last night but the wider screw stopped me. The existing screw doesn’t work with them nor the Schallers.
 
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Did you have any issue with using the wider screw on the strap button with the Dunlop? I was going to install those last night but the wider screw stopped me.

I actually used the stock Dunlop screw, which is a bit longer. IIRC if you want to use the stock screw, you can file the edges back (put the screw in a drill and use a file or sandpaper to grind it back. Of course, using a slightly longer screw can also be a concern but I went slowly and carefully and it worked fine.
 
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I actually used the stock Dunlop screw, which is a bit longer. IIRC if you want to use the stock screw, you can file the edges back (put the screw in a drill and use a file or sandpaper to grind it back. Of course, using a slightly longer screw can also be a concern but I went slowly and carefully and it worked fine.

I have Dunlops on ALL guitars and basses. I use a proper-sized drill to pre-drill the hole to the shank diameter and depth of the dunlop screw. Never had any issues. I thought about grinding down the head on the factory screws, but life is too short.
 
I actually used the stock Dunlop screw, which is a bit longer. IIRC if you want to use the stock screw, you can file the edges back (put the screw in a drill and use a file or sandpaper to grind it back. Of course, using a slightly longer screw can also be a concern but I went slowly and carefully and it worked fine.

I put the straplocks on mine using the Dunlop supplied screw was only a little longer and went on with no issues.
 
I put the straplocks on mine using the Dunlop supplied screw was only a little longer and went on with no issues.

Can you verify that these are the Dunlop screws. I took these off another bass and not sure if these are the ones supplied.
Thanks!

EB18C2D9-12C3-4E14-9523-B82408D5469F.jpeg
 
Can you verify that these are the Dunlop screws. I took these off another bass and not sure if these are the ones supplied.
Thanks!

View attachment 2874852

Mine are screwed into my bass and all I remember about them is that they were screws, sorry.
Give em a try if they start to get too tight/hard to screw in then just back em out and drill a pilot hole.
 
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Can you verify that these are the Dunlop screws. I took these off another bass and not sure if these are the ones supplied.
Thanks!

View attachment 2874852

Yep. those are the ones that come with the straplocks. I used those too. As pointed out you may need to drill out a little bit more. They're about 1/4" longer than the stock black screws.
 
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Guys...I really really like this bass. I spent the morning doing my regular unamplified exercises and just did a couple hours amplified. I'm really impressed with the tone, playability and quality of the build. This NG-2 is just as much a burner as any AB, Z or Voodoo. We go out again the first week of February, and I'll be taking this an no backups with confidence.

The neck is very comfortable and really replicates what I remember of my AB1, except the finish is really smooth and feels great, while the AB had the wax finished neck. The wood on the neck is really well matched and there's not any sign of seam-sprout. The maple is very nicely uniform without any standout funkiness visually. fretboard shoulder round is totally comfy

The finish is also uniform and without any imperfections that I've gotten on other import instruments. Neck pocket is tight tight, pickguard also doesn't have any 'play' in it's fit or cut. I don't have any problem with the new bridge. Seems to be solid, the saddles are chunky, but I also don't palm the bridge ever, so if you do, I can understand that the allen screw tops might not be as comfortable as the Z or AB bridges.

The bass came with a just a little relief in the neck (where I like it) and the action is Dingwall low. No buzzes or high spots. Fret ends are nicely treated and there's no sharp anything. It looks like someone's put some real attention to them. No sprout either but the bass is only a week out of the shop and I keep our relative humidity around 40% here in the house (plus or minus 5). The nut is clean and well cut, no sharp edges or weirdness. String tree has no loose screws. ; )

I wasn't sure I'd take to the Darkglass preamp, but it's actually a really interesting take on things and I think it probably will cover a lot of ground for people. I know some are worried about it really doing a 'modern rock or slappy/tappy thing and not much else...and I don't feel that way. Yes it does that (and well) but you can also get it to smooth out and round off really well. The 500hz mid (low/mid) is well implemented. If you want bring it up and you've got the high-mid flat or up a bit you get some aggressive snarly vibe from it (clean though). If you dial it back just a touch it smooths out your tone really nicely. Depending on where you have the high mid, it acts sort of as a 'clarity' control and you can ride it in small increments to control note definition. The low at 70 sounds really big. A little goes a long way. I'll have to play with this with my real rig on stage, but a bit of bump then working the low-mid control was most of what I was doing. It's got to be a fairly wide Q. The high-mid control at 2.8k is also nicely voiced. For most of what I do, I roll it off a lot, but in doing so it does preserve the stuff in the far upper treble range (Sheldon mentioned I may need to apply my amp's treble EQ in a slightly different way). But actually just a little bit up there is nice. Just a little bit of the percussive thing added in.

I found myself mostly in the neck/bridge parallel (which is not a surprise) but was surprised to find that the neck/middle series setting is totally useable as well...I ended up pulling out a little more of the 500hz and adding a little more low to fill it out and totally workable for standard finger style playing. I don't think anyone needs to be worried that this is only a bass for the heavier stuff.

Electronics are clean and clear, FD3's sound fantastic as usual... and I didn't experience any hums, buzzes or anything All up to snuff.

I like the charcoal-chrome hardware visually. It's got some shine and reflection but isn't silvery. I think it's a really good fit for the purple finish. I will say that the finish on the hipshot tuners has a little wave to it, I'd guess that's probably the closest you'll find to a negative to the instrument's aesthetics. But that's also I'm guessing the concession to pricepoint. They work just fine, and don't feel like they're any kind of downgrade though. I'm also probably going to drop on a set of the Dingwall shop-made rubber knobs. I just like them and am a creature of habit. I also put on a set of Dunlop straplocks. They make me feel more secure, and it means I can use my various straps interchangeably.

Some detail pictures for y'all. I apologize for the background...it was the best lighting in the house today. Note that this is an NG-2 (as labeled on the box) that's had a-post-factory aftermarket conversion by a qualified luthier. I can't speak to what the new 2018 model will do differently or any changes for that.

View attachment 2874753

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How is the weight?
 
I'll give it a try next time I change the strings, I'm using the strings that came on it so don't have enough extra to get more windings. I gave up on the E and B as you can see:
View attachment 2873562

Sorry just got around to this tonight. I wind the strings pretty close to the nut.

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