Double Sevens

[lbridenstine]

ibridenstine...

question...what is your finish neck thickness....before fingerboard>?....just curious

For my fast / Thin Necks...I have a finished neck thickness of 17-18mm....(truss rod thickness is 9.5mm (LMI)).. FB wood is 8-9 mm....for a total thickness of @27mm...or just over 1.06"

These ones (each one I make has been different) are 13/16" at the nut and 7/8" at the 12th fret with the fretboard. The fretboard is probably around 1/4", so that makes it 9/16" (14.2875 mm) at the nut and 5/8" (15.875 mm) at the 12th fret without the fretboard.

 

[Scoops]

Lisa,

One thing I noticed in your vids are the use of what looks like latex gloves
You may want to consider something like these Nitrile Gloves

They are so much better on so many levels

 

[Manton Customs]

ibridenstine...

question...what is your finish neck thickness....before fingerboard>?....just curious

For my fast / Thin Necks...I have a finished neck thickness of 17-18mm....(truss rod thickness is 9.5mm (LMI)).. FB wood is 8-9 mm....for a total thickness of @27mm...or just over 1.06"

Hope Lisa doesn't mind me answering also. 27mm is actually quite a thick neck. For example a Geddy lee jazz bass is 19 mm at the nut including fretboard, which is about as thin as you can go without recessing the truss rod into the fretboard (I'm talking double action rod here).

There's nothing to say a thicker neck is a slower neck though, a lot of people will find a neck that isn't ultra thin faster than one that is. It all depends on the players preference. So I don't want it to sound like I'm telling you that you've done anything wrong! Just you could go a fair bit thinner if you wanted . My personal preference is around 22 mm at the nut including fingerboard (6mm).

 

[lbridenstine]

Lisa,

One thing I noticed in your vids are the use of what looks like latex gloves
You may want to consider something like these Nitrile Gloves

They are so much better on so many levels

The black gloves I wear are Nitrile (I wear cotton glove liners under them now, as suggested by my doctor), and the white (or clear? I don't remember) ones I wore last year (probably in the body videos that aren't up yet) were vinyl. The vinyl ones were constantly ripping apart, fingers would break through or they'd rip in half, the Nitrile are a lot better and actually don't make my hands as hot either. I'm actually able to re-use the Nitrile ones sometimes instead of tossing a pair each day.

 

[lbridenstine]

Hope Lisa doesn't mind me answering also. 27mm is actually quite a thick neck. For example a Geddy lee jazz bass is 19 mm at the nut including fretboard, which is about as thin as you can go without recessing the truss rod into the fretboard (I'm talking double action rod here).

There's nothing to say a thicker neck is a slower neck though, a lot of people will find a neck that isn't ultra thin faster than one that is. It all depends on the players preference. So I don't want it to sound like I'm telling you that you've done anything wrong! Just you could go a fair bit thinner if you wanted . My personal preference is around 22 mm at the nut including fingerboard (6mm).

I used to play a Jackson Soloist with a super thin neck and I loved it, but had no problem playing when I made my first guitar that had a thicker neck. I think I might like the thicker neck better, actually. I do really love the thin neck on my fretless too, though. Variety is nice.

I think the most important aspect of a fast neck is a non-sticky neck finish.

 

[lbridenstine]

 

[Lonnybass]

You're doing great stuff Lisa.

 

[lbridenstine]

You're doing great stuff Lisa.

Thanks!

 

[earlysecond]

Great work continues. I gotta check your neck video. Im attempting my first neck.

 

[lbridenstine]

On Saturday I made my control cavity templates and shaped the covers, put the belly cut on the tamarind body, and worked on cleaning up the forearm contour veneer line on the myrtle body. The veneer has some pits in it, so I'm going to need to fill it with epoxy and dust. I'm hoping it will turn out good. I also filled the other sides of the fret slots, but when I checked at the end of the day, several of them had the epoxy sunken in, so I'll need to do another round of filling on those.

I was planning on taking photos of everything yesterday after getting the cavities cleaned up, but I ended up having other things to do and didn't have time to work on them.

I have the video for this week pretty close to being edited, but I'll probably have to skip a week (next week) to catch up for the next video which is going to show everything done before finish (which is obviously not done yet - should be soon though!).

 

[earlysecond]

Lisa,
What material are you using for control cavity covers?

I'm assuming in the video you were doing major shaping with a Shinto rasp? OR was that another tool?

Pretty wood in those necks!
Brent

 

[lbridenstine]

Lisa,
What material are you using for control cavity covers?

I'm assuming in the video you were doing major shaping with a Shinto rasp? OR was that another tool?

Pretty wood in those necks!
Brent

The covers are made from black limba cutoffs from the body.

Yeah, that's a Shinto rasp.

 

[lbridenstine]

My new video will be up later today. This one has 3 seasons in it (summer, fall, winter) if you watch it and wonder why it goes from me wearing a t-shirt to a winter coat, that's why.

I've been seriously lacking on time to work on my finish test pieces. I talked to someone who has successfully buried a waterslide decal under (spray can) oil based polyurethane and I'm thinking that I will try that for the headstocks. Does any one know of any issues with Minwax oil based poly over Minwax "tung oil"? If they play well together, I think that would be the easiest solution for me. I'm not sure yet where to put my signature decals, maybe on the inside of the control cover again?

 

[jallenbass]

Does any one know of any issues with Minwax oil based poly over Minwax "tung oil"? If they play well together, I think that would be the easiest solution for me.

I'm no expert on finishing so take this with a grain but I would think that the finished product would look the same with just poly as it would with poly over tung oil. Just curious as to why you want to use both.

 

[MrArose13]

Loving the youtube vids Lisa! I've been toying with the Idea of doing tube vids of all that goes on in the shop.

Anyway, I use Minwax Tung oil on my instruments and finish off with Minwax wipe on poly. They're both oil base so they're compatible. I can't imagine the spray would be any different, though i haven't tried it... thought about it, but haven't tried it. I'd like to hear how it goes for you.

 

[lbridenstine]

I'm no expert on finishing so take this with a grain but I would think that the finished product would look the same with just poly as it would with poly over tung oil. Just curious as to why you want to use both.

I'm using tung oil for the finish for both of them, the only reason the poly is coming into the equation is to bury the decals.

Loving the youtube vids Lisa! I've been toying with the Idea of doing tube vids of all that goes on in the shop.

Anyway, I use Minwax Tung oil on my instruments and finish off with Minwax wipe on poly. They're both oil base so they're compatible. I can't imagine the spray would be any different, though i haven't tried it... thought about it, but haven't tried it. I'd like to hear how it goes for you.

Awesome, thanks! The spray stuff is the same as far as I know, although the re-coat time is a little different.

I'd like to see those videos.

 

[lbridenstine]

 

[Fat Freddy]

It's such a pleasure to watch someone that's very good at what they're doing......Doing it!.....

 

[Jisch]

Nice video.

I'm not sure what it is about that music, but my dog kept tilting her head as it played, pretty funny.

 

[mapleglo]

Another great video! I must commend your use of safety gear - gloves, ear and eye protection, long sleeves, mask - you should see me when I work - flip flops, tank tops, and when I remember, I'll wear my safety glasses.