Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
DR Strings Club?
- Thread starter GoatGruff
- Start date
Saw this thread, wandered over to craigslist and a guy two blocks from my house was selling DR Fat Beams for $15 a pop. Just bought them, brand new in sealed box.
Going to try them on my G&L ASAT
Been using RotoSound Jazz Bass flats(45-105) for the last 2 years. Love the tone but every time I picked up any other bass with rounds it was a whole lot easier to play.
Why struggle?
Going to try them on my G&L ASAT
Been using RotoSound Jazz Bass flats(45-105) for the last 2 years. Love the tone but every time I picked up any other bass with rounds it was a whole lot easier to play.
Why struggle?
Got Hi-Beams for my Squier VM Jazz, then I got curious and got the Hi-Beam Flats, They rule.
Number please?
Number please?
why struggle? haha that sounds brilliant. amazing price too, bass strings of any variety are on average $30-50 australian dollars from the local guitar store, so for that price i don't blame you! i have found that DR fat beams are quite a bit brighter than a lot of other rounds when you first but them on, so don't be too alarmed - it's a change for the better!
you have the right attitude. you're in! ^_^
Megas3300 #15
I just put a set of Green Neons on The Monster (my custom Moser Arachnid Ultra). Check 'em out:
Not only do they look cool, they SOUND amazing, and have a great feel.
Cheers!
Well, boohoo.
Put the Fat Beams on and because the string ends at the tuning pegs are not squiggly like a lot of other strings, the D string keeps slowly detuning then pops out. Right now I have the string holding fast but so far only able to tune it up to A. Maybe it will settle in and allow me to bring it up to D.
This is not my first rodeo and I have lassoed my fair share of basses needing new strings. The only other time I have encountered this type problem was nylon strings on a classical guitar. The fix for that was threading the string through the hole twice before winding. Can't do that with bass pegs.
Ideas?
Put the Fat Beams on and because the string ends at the tuning pegs are not squiggly like a lot of other strings, the D string keeps slowly detuning then pops out. Right now I have the string holding fast but so far only able to tune it up to A. Maybe it will settle in and allow me to bring it up to D.
This is not my first rodeo and I have lassoed my fair share of basses needing new strings. The only other time I have encountered this type problem was nylon strings on a classical guitar. The fix for that was threading the string through the hole twice before winding. Can't do that with bass pegs.
Ideas?
Success!
I knew if I searched long enough on TB, some one would have an answer for stopping string slippage. I found a post from 2008 addressing this problem. Thanks to member, "73jbass"
"insert the string into the hole of the tuning peg, wrap 1/2 turn the opposite way, back through the peg slot, and wrap as usual"
Worked like a charm. All tuned up and ready to review DR strings.
I knew if I searched long enough on TB, some one would have an answer for stopping string slippage. I found a post from 2008 addressing this problem. Thanks to member, "73jbass"
"insert the string into the hole of the tuning peg, wrap 1/2 turn the opposite way, back through the peg slot, and wrap as usual"
Worked like a charm. All tuned up and ready to review DR strings.
I just bought Dr Neons and they are the worst strings I ever used.
Paint on strings, cant be good.
HiBeams and LoBeams are good though.
Paint on strings, cant be good.
HiBeams and LoBeams are good though.
I just put a set of Green Neons on The Monster (my custom Moser Arachnid Ultra). Check 'em out:
Not only do they look cool, they SOUND amazing, and have a great feel.
Cheers!
that's brutal! wicked looking bass, what do all those other switches do? only one pickup as well, do you notice having the neck pickup missing for extra low thumpy bass? i'm sure it doesn't matter with active pickups, i'm just curious!
Thanks!
Actually, the pickup isn't active. It's an SGD Lutherie ND3-HB, which just ROCKS!!
I don't notice anything missing by not having a neck pickup. She's plenty loud/thumpy, plus I play through a Marshall VBA 400 into 4x12 and 2x15 cabs, hehehe...
The volume control you see is for the on-board booster only. In non-boosted mode, the pickup is wired directly to the output jack, no volume or tone controls with just a master on/off switch (the lone one closest to the booster volume control). The other 3 switches, from right to left, are booster on/off, series/parallel, booster treble boost (only operates when the booster is engaged).Cheers!
Using either Steel Lo-Riders or Hi-Beams right now. I think I prefer the Lo-Riders on a P played with a pick. The Hi-Beams kick @$$ on a '70s Jazz, though. Both are .45-105 sets
I dont know if I just got a bad set or what, but I put some Marcus Millers on my Fender Jazz and while they sounded great, they lost their great slap brightness after just a couple weeks. Has anyone else had this problem?
On the positive side, have Sunbeams on my Mike Lull PT4 and really like them.
On the positive side, have Sunbeams on my Mike Lull PT4 and really like them.
Have the 2nd wrap go over the 1st wrap (comin out de hole). Subsequent wraps consecutively lower. Fixed.
