haha! I've only had it for a couple hours, I'm not positive what I want to use yet. I'm not tech savy with guitar gear. And on top of the guitar settings I'm also keeping one of the sansamp channels on the whole time so I've gotta get all that dialed too... It's kinda overwhelming. A few days ago I didn't own anything except an amp and a 1/4" cable
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Yeah - the beige binding has me suspicious
In regards to sounds - just log some decent time on playing it in series vs parallel.
thats where the differences will lie.
The active tone is 99% the same basic tone of the passive mode, just with the ability to sculpt the tone using the 4 band eq.
I just love these basses.
Look beautiful, sound great. In that order
In regards to sounds - just log some decent time on playing it in series vs parallel.
thats where the differences will lie.
The active tone is 99% the same basic tone of the passive mode, just with the ability to sculpt the tone using the 4 band eq.
I just love these basses.
Look beautiful, sound great. In that order
The beige threw me off at first but I like it
Active vs passive seems to change my tone alot more than series vs parallel. I like active because it sounds punchier. I'm running active parallel right now. I don't really understand what series does
As for tone sculpting... My instinct tells me to leave the active tone knobs at unity and use the SanSamp and my amps EQ to shape everything. Thoughts? I don't have the years of experience like you guys do, I've just been blessed with being able to get nice gear
EDIT: for whatever reason switching from active (neutral) to passive (full tone) now doesn't hardly make any difference
Active vs passive seems to change my tone alot more than series vs parallel. I like active because it sounds punchier. I'm running active parallel right now. I don't really understand what series does
As for tone sculpting... My instinct tells me to leave the active tone knobs at unity and use the SanSamp and my amps EQ to shape everything. Thoughts? I don't have the years of experience like you guys do, I've just been blessed with being able to get nice gear
EDIT: for whatever reason switching from active (neutral) to passive (full tone) now doesn't hardly make any difference
That's odd - I don't think the preamp/pickups are THAT hot. Maybe they are and I haven't got enough reference points.
I find that Passive with tone full on is the same as Actve set flat.
My parallel is MUCH more modern sounding than the series mode. Less low mid and mid mid punch.
Dan
I find that Passive with tone full on is the same as Actve set flat.
My parallel is MUCH more modern sounding than the series mode. Less low mid and mid mid punch.
Dan
I use the programmable bass driver ([Invalid or Expired Link Removed]) which does have an attenuator but I don't use it. I've been keeping full volume coming from the guitar and at unity on the sansamp. I was running into the effects loop of my Hartke 350 with no problem so that's weird it's blowing you guys out. I'm gonna start using the preamp on the Hartke though
My tone is way different going from passive full tone to active neutral
My tone is way different going from passive full tone to active neutral
i have an ampeg practice amp that has a 15db pad that i use when the RF is in active mode with no distortion. in passive mode, no problem. i cant find a DI that has a 7 or 10 db pad only 20 and 40 db which is too much.
i like to run my volume from 3/4 to full so i know where i am, especially when the non replaceable proprietary knobs have NO POINTER ! with the markbass tube 800 head and bass in active i barely have the amp input level on and i still get the clip light to activate. the 9 volt SR5 of course is no problem.
thats why i asked about the sansamp. i can find any info on whether they provide a 15db input pad.
i like to run my volume from 3/4 to full so i know where i am, especially when the non replaceable proprietary knobs have NO POINTER ! with the markbass tube 800 head and bass in active i barely have the amp input level on and i still get the clip light to activate. the 9 volt SR5 of course is no problem.
thats why i asked about the sansamp. i can find any info on whether they provide a 15db input pad.
I just don't get it? 
What are You guys maximize those active tone controls, or what?
I run my reflex through micro bass monitor combo (Carvin MB 12) and never had any problems, ...even I have an option switch active/passive at input, ...I prefer passive input to avoid resistor and get as clean as possible tone, even when play reflex in active mode!
Gain knob is on 3/10 with no distortion, or clip led light!
I use a compressor a little bit and than run the signal through DI out to the main mixing console with post switch position!
Of course, I use an active EQ knobs very minimized (centered), or even cut some blends (depends on venue) ...etc.
I'm sound engineer, ...we usually cut "things", rarely boost!
What are You guys maximize those active tone controls, or what?
I run my reflex through micro bass monitor combo (Carvin MB 12) and never had any problems, ...even I have an option switch active/passive at input, ...I prefer passive input to avoid resistor and get as clean as possible tone, even when play reflex in active mode!
Gain knob is on 3/10 with no distortion, or clip led light!
I use a compressor a little bit and than run the signal through DI out to the main mixing console with post switch position!
Of course, I use an active EQ knobs very minimized (centered), or even cut some blends (depends on venue) ...etc.
I'm sound engineer, ...we usually cut "things", rarely boost!
hi keko. i run my tone controls straight up 12 oclock which is out of the circuit. the markbass is 16db cut/ boost either side of 12. i have the bass control CUT to the 11 oclock position. i like to run the bass volume at 3/4 so i kinda sorta know where i am in regards to max bass guitar volume, again no pointer knob and i havent found a knob that has one the will work in the extra deep hole. if im in active mode, both mids up a taste, the bass rolled off a bit and the treble flat, and i use the humbucker in series, it distorts ie clip light goes on and the amp input is about 1/4 of the way up. to get a clean sound i have to back off the input volume to almost off and crank the amps output volume. any suggestions? thanks
David when you were asking about the SansAmp having an attenuator I thought you meant for the 1/4" not the XLR. The XLR has a -20db button (which I don't use because I have an Avalon for a DI). And the button for the 1/4" is actually not a boost but it brings the signal back to unity, because unless I'm a bad reader the SansAmp automatically is cutting the signal by 10db. I'm also running directly into the FloorQ compressor which has a preamp in it if that matters.
So all in all my signal is getting cut -10db before it hits my amp
So all in all my signal is getting cut -10db before it hits my amp
So this is a little odd.
Nothin else in your signal chain before hitting the Markbass?
What about pulling the bass/lowmid/himid/treble controls all DOWN a small but equal amount?
The net result would be an even sounding signal drop when in active.
Nothin else in your signal chain before hitting the Markbass?
What about pulling the bass/lowmid/himid/treble controls all DOWN a small but equal amount?
The net result would be an even sounding signal drop when in active.
You know what?
If there's no sound distortion, everything should be fine, that's it!
It's very hard to make diagnostics over the internet anyway!
Hi guys, ...check my new home amateur video played with EB Cobalt 5 strings on active bridge H settings of my reflex bass:
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