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EBMM StingRay Special Club

If it gets tuned initially, then I would check string install first. String inserted fully into peg head, then hard 90 thru the slot? At least 2 windings on peg head? D string fully depressed under the string retainer? On a StingRay, the D has the longest distance between the bridge and the peg head, so proper install is important - in my experience, it's the string that takes a tad more time to tune & intonate than the others.
A new string and 3 winds fixed it! Phew!
One addition when I got the new D string (a GC within driving distance had single EB Slinky Reg strings) was to try a .125 on the B string. Gotta say I'm digging it. Just a little more focus tone and less sub. Still has tension too!
 
A new string and 3 winds fixed it! Phew!
One addition when I got the new D string (a GC within driving distance had single EB Slinky Reg strings) was to try a .125 on the B string. Gotta say I'm digging it. Just a little more focus tone and less sub. Still has tension too!

What are your thoughts about the HH Pickups being in the way for slap style?
 
What are your thoughts about the HH Pickups being in the way for slap style?

It took a bit of getting used to but it doesn't seem to get in the way anymore. I think for me it was more of a case that I had some bad technique than the p/up. But now, I find that I can easily fit my first and/or second finger in the space between the neck and p/up depending on which I am using. Plus with the active electronics I don't need to slap as hard and can keep a little more contained. Lastly, after the set up the neck pickup ended up a little lower, due to the lower action, and is a little more out of the way. I can fit a popping finger between the p/up and string.
TBH I hit the neck while popping more than the pick up. It's a different (although more comfy) fit than my jazz bass. Where I tend to pop on my JB is where the neck joint is on the SRS so I tend to pop and hit the neck more than the p/up, if that makes sense. But I'm adjusting and am getting pretty used to it already. I've restricted myself to only playing the SRS5 to really get at home. As I have a few things to get used. Moving from a 4 to a 5, moving from 19mm spacing to 17.5mm and the body shape. It has been a fun transition so far.

It's worth a try and IMO worth any small amount of readjustment for the additional finger style tones.
Phin
 
I have a small rough spot on the back of my neck on my SRS5. Has anyone followed the cleaning and gun stock wax re-application instructions on the EBMM website? Wondering if it is as easy as it seems in the vid or if I shouldn't go there. The vid shows him sanding the neck and re-applying the gun stock wax. But the FAQs state that not much sanding is recommended, see below. It looks easy but don't want to jack up my neck.
Thanks,

From the EBMM FAQs:
For routine conditioning and cleaning of these necks we recommend Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner.

If the Wonder Wipes are not available try using a high grade of lemon oil. It will work both on maple, rosewood and ebony. If the neck is very dirty, you can use a small amount of Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 3:1 with water, to clean it. Keep in mind that if the dirt has gotten into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend a lot of. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps!

On an maple neck, some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal.

An annual (or so) dose of tru oil and gunstockwax will help to keep the neck maintained; we use and recommend Birchwood-Casey Tru-oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work.

Click here to watch a how-to video
 
I had a concern too and I made sure I spend a good while playing one in a store to see if it would affect my technique. Fortunately it didn’t and hasn’t. The added tones the HH offers are well worth it!

Agreed! I too spent some time in the shop with one. After about 20 minutes I didn't think about it. Same goes for it being a 5 string. It's so comfy to play.
 
I have a small rough spot on the back of my neck on my SRS5. Has anyone followed the cleaning and gun stock wax re-application instructions on the EBMM website? Wondering if it is as easy as it seems in the vid or if I shouldn't go there. The vid shows him sanding the neck and re-applying the gun stock wax. But the FAQs state that not much sanding is recommended, see below. It looks easy but don't want to jack up my neck.
Thanks,

From the EBMM FAQs:
For routine conditioning and cleaning of these necks we recommend Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner.

If the Wonder Wipes are not available try using a high grade of lemon oil. It will work both on maple, rosewood and ebony. If the neck is very dirty, you can use a small amount of Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 3:1 with water, to clean it. Keep in mind that if the dirt has gotten into the wood, it cannot be removed except by sanding it down, which we do not recommend a lot of. It is better to keep it clean in the first place. Washing your hands first helps!

On an maple neck, some discoloration after many hours of playing is normal.

An annual (or so) dose of tru oil and gunstockwax will help to keep the neck maintained; we use and recommend Birchwood-Casey Tru-oil, but any good quality gunstock oil will work.

Click here to watch a how-to video

I have done the reapplication of the tru oil and gunstock wax before on my older SR5 but I haven't had to do it on my specials yet. I recall it being pretty simple. I think there are a few youtube vids that you can watch first to be confident in what you're doing. I didn't do any sanding though.
 
I've done two gigs with this bass now, and this was my first since I've had a full setup adjusted just how i like it, and with a fresh set of my standard strings. Loved the tone and playability, its become my new number one. Having been mostly a passive Fender guy the last several years, this bass really does combine what I like about P's and J's...bigger, thicker tone, but still very punchy and clear. This was at The machine Shop in Flint MI supporting Jackyle, the soundman commented how good the bass sounded...always a good sign:).

James-Vern-MachineShop-111921-edit01.jpg
 
Like @FirewalZ, I've been a passive Fender guy for the past 10 years. I absolutely love the tone of my Precision and absolutely hate everything else about it.

On the other hand, I absolutely lover everything about the Stingray, but I've always had doubts about owning a bass with only one pickup in the bridge position. I was wondering if the Stingray Special with the front pickup soloed can get in the ball park of a Precision. I'm not looking for perfection, but something that sits in the mix as good as a Precision without cutting through like a knife in hot butter.

Thanks.
 
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@JazzyJacuzzi, the Special 5HH (I don't know about the 4HH) in position 4 gives you the back half of the front pickup plus the front half of the back pickup; this gives a combination that is very close to Carl Radle's modded 52P? bass, which was a very successful, famous combination.
Here is one example. Here is a photo of another clone.
 
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Does anyone know of a US retailer that has the Ray34 Natural finish Swamp Ash with Maple Neck in sto ck? I am not able to find one anywhere. Thanks in advance.
You are asking about the US made Special , not the Sterling Ray34 right?

If you call Ernie Ball they might possibly be able to tell you if a US dealer has one in stock.

https://reverb.com/item/47172541-music-man-stingray-special-4-h-natural-with-roasted-maple-neck
There is a used one on Reverb.
These are hard to come by because they were only made a few years. I don't think they were in the latest lineup of finish options. There was also a shortage of Ash recently. Also Ernie Ball isn't producing anymore basses this year is what was reported here a few months back.

You said maple neck, but I assume you mean fretboard too. If not this place has one listed with ash body/maple neck/rosewood fingerboard.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
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