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Epiphone Resurrection

If the neck is fretted to a 34" scale, then the first order of business is to mount the neck such that the nut is 34" from the forwardmost position of the bridge saddles. This is not negotiable if you want to be in tune.

Once that's done, you may find that the neck is still too long to fit into the existing pocket, so you may need to trim that end of the neck to fit.

There is some confusion going on. Is he using a 34" neck to create a short scale bass? That's where I see an issue.
 
There is some confusion going on. Is he using a 34" neck to create a short scale bass? That's where I see an issue.
No, a shortened 34" scale neck on what WAS a short scale body.
Removing length from the neck at the heel end of the neck brings the nut closer to the bridge.

It's not a neck "conversion" per-se.

I've in the past done something similar, in my case the truss rod anchor would not allow enough to be cut to make it work without also cutting a deeper pocket
 
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I find it funny that there are people telling how something does not work or telling what one should do for a guy who has REALLY made some instruments, not just read stories on internet. This is Luthiers corner, we make things work! I'm sure Slidlow has enough knowledge about scale lengths and positioning bridge to make this bass playable. I know, I was a newbie once too and didn't know a s**t abot anything luthiery, but still…
Thank you for the vote of confidence. I actually have been building since 1982 but don't flaunt my experience.
 
No, a shortened 34" scale neck on what WAS a short scale body.
Removing length from the neck at the heel end of the neck brings the nut closer to the bridge.

It's not a neck "conversion" per-se.

I've in the past done something similar, in my case the truss rod anchor would not allow enough to be cut to make it work without also cutting a deeper pocket
Thank you for explaining it to him. I was able to locate the end of the truss rod with a magnet and there is room on this one to cut.
 
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Tungsten slugs.
Or I could be silly and do this to balance it out.
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He's changing scales, stock it's 30", this neck is a 34" , the distance from bridge saddle to nut will be appropriate for a 34" scale once the neck is shortened.
Yes thank you, and the only reason is I have the neck on hand. The original neck is some kind of mahogany that is really soft. Probably why it snapped. Got a nice fretboard though and it will go one another Zim Gar inspired build.
 
Or I could be silly and do this to balance it out.View attachment 7332716
Go with 3x Tbird pickups :-)
Another thought, ditch the 3 point, plug the anchor points and go with a Kickass or similar, this will allow you to place the bridge with a little more flexibility, while keeping the mass on the high side to counteract neck dive.
If you do go that route, tungsten slugs beneath the bridge, or even keep the three point and put tungsten slugs in the butt end of the body will GREATLY reduce dive.

I put about 12g of tungsten in the cavity of 2 of my Epiphone 60's reprod (the ones with the headstock the size of Rhode Island)
With that and light tuners the neck dive was eliminated.
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Yes thank you, and the only reason is I have the neck on hand. The original neck is some kind of mahogany that is really soft. Probably why it snapped. Got a nice fretboard though and it will go one another Zim Gar inspired build.
It's not mahogany, it's Okoume, sometimes called Gabon:

 
Well I liberated the truss rod from the neck. Never have I seen one come out with so much tension. Seems like it was the only thing holding the strings back. The neck was pretty straight before I opened it up. This kind of tells me not to use okoume for a neck.View attachment 7333296
Without stiffeners! In a non laminated neck, is definitely a poor recipe. But it's disposable cheap bass, "mahogany" has marketing mystique. Khaya, okoume "mahogany" properly selected can work fine.
This is bulk board stock, questionable aging and drying, NOT aged for stability:
From tree to bass in months rather than years.
eBay is FLOODED With headless Gibson "formulae" instruments. No-one gives it a second thought.
A tilted headstock without a volute with any open pore wood is a bad idea.
Gibson ( and Epiphone) exist and still sell in huge numbers in spite of this long standing issue *shrug*
Results even with a laminated neck; (my current
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resurrection project)
Cross grain without a volute, nor a scarf joint!
It's gonna break if stressed
 
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