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fdecks HPF, Part II

Well, running into the preamp straight vs. through the fDeck there was a substantial difference, with the latter being more dynamic and open and requiring a much lower setting on the pre to achieve the same volume. "Common cathode" is something else I'll have to look up, but conversation with the builder leads me to thing this might be the case. He mentioned some designs using a cathode follower. This isn't one. I, too, don't recall impedance being mentioned in matching up pres to poweramps, just sensitivity. If it's as uncommon a consideration as it seems to me, some mention should be made in the lit of the pre, but maybe this is something I should have been aware of?

As for the hum, we will see what the builder says. While dynamics, etc, seem related to the impedance issue, it seems apparent that the hum is not.

It's a bit complicated since I picked up the pre here from its original owner. Working with him and the builder to get things resolved. We'll see what happens. I don't want to derail this thread (though the HPFPre did come into play). I do appreciate the help and input.

Sorry for the late follow-up -- thought I posted something about this awhile ago, but I don't see it. I don't have the preamp anymore, but it did get sent back to the builder, who found a bad ground and fixed it. Both he and the seller were pretty cool about things. Thanks to everyone for your help and insights earlier.
 
I just couldn't get a secure enough hold trying it that way...
Maybe you did it differently, can you post a photo?
For sure:
image.jpg

image.jpg

My Pedaltrain is actually a PT-Jr that I cut in half longways to give me dual small pedalboards, but this is the rear part between the last two bars and I made the feet so that it sits at about the same height/angle as when it was whole.
 
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I wonder if this is because the power isn't being wasted by the power amp to produce the deep lows so it doesn't have to be turned up as much? It could be unity gain, but just improving the efficiency of the amp I think!

Nope. I don't have a power amp headroom problem, definitely an impedance thing. I even spoke to a couple engineers/designers about it.

The only time I've ever run into an amp headroom issue with my current setup is when the line voltage at the wall is well below the standard for US voltage. When that happens, it evinces it self in a number of perceptible ways, namely my tube preamp having a different tonality and my power amp stage showing clip protection behavior well below my standard volume levels.
 
Nope. I don't have a power amp headroom problem, definitely an impedance thing. I even spoke to a couple engineers/designers about it.

The only time I've ever run into an amp headroom issue with my current setup is when the line voltage at the wall is well below the standard for US voltage. When that happens, it evinces it self in a number of perceptible ways, namely my tube preamp having a different tonality and my power amp stage showing clip protection behavior well below my standard volume levels.

I'm not sure what headroom issue you're talking about, I was simply commenting that the fdeck might not be boosting your signal so that you have to turn down your amp, it's making it so that you don't have to turn it up as high to get the same volume due to less wasted power.
 
I'm not sure what headroom issue you're talking about, I was simply commenting that the fdeck might not be boosting your signal so that you have to turn down your amp, it's making it so that you don't have to turn it up as high to get the same volume due to less wasted power.

It's a good idea, but not what's going on. :) Beyond talking to several parties involved including the maker of my preamp, the engineer/designing people for my power amp, etc., they're in agreement that it's some kind of impedance thing.

I'm playing with a 3000w power amp. Even without the fdeck in my rig, at volume it's idling.
 
It's a good idea, but not what's going on. :) Beyond talking to several parties involved including the maker of my preamp, the engineer/designing people for my power amp, etc., they're in agreement that it's some kind of impedance thing.

I'm playing with a 3000w power amp. Even without the fdeck in my rig, at volume it's idling.

Cool! The output (or input) impedance of the HPF could be such that you're closer to getting maximum power transfer between the devices or something then.
 
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Read all 31 pages of part II here. (Part I seems to be gone.)

Not sure if I saw anything negative at all, and lots of positive.

My hpf v3 is ordered. Bring on the low frequency magic!

I have one of the very earliest of HPF3's...and it's always been a great unit. While I've recently moved on to using a software based DSP HPF on my power amp, I still keep the HPF3 in my gigbag in case...
 
Only complaint- have the pots on top. I considered modding mine until I saw the pots are circuit board mounted, and if I took them out and added regular pots on the top of the case, I feared adding wires and dragging them up to the case top could add noise.
 
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Only complaint- have the pots on top. I considered modding mine until I saw the pots are circuit board mounted, and if I took them out and added regular pots on the top of the case, I feared adding wires and dragging them up to the case top could add noise.
With them mounted on the end, it is possible to stash it under a pedal board.
 
I like the knobs where they are.
The backwards I/O is weird.
You have to remember the device's origin and primary market: piezo-pickup URB and EUB.
And the knobs work especially well in that context - I have mine velcroed to the back of my NS-Design NXT-5.
In a piezo-pickup upright context, it makes perfect sense to leave the HPF permanently connected and attached to the instrument; you then switch power when you plug in the output cable.
 
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Origin and other markets notwithstanding, THIS forum is the electric bass subforum. It seems to me that the users here would benefit from having an electric bass version of the HPF3. I have said this before (and been kinda slammed for it). For ME, using it with an electric bass, it would be better with these differences:

- knobs on top
- stomp switch to enable/bypass, where bypass also turns the power off.
- input and output reversed (and, optionally, on the sides, instead of the back), to match other pedals
- power input on the back side
- power disconnect on the input jack, instead of the output jack

In other words, make it look and work like all the other pedals or stompboxes out there for electric bass. Including making it where I can leave it completely hooked up (possibly, on a pedal board) all the time and not have the battery die (by turning it off via the Bypass switch).
 
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Origin and other markets notwithstanding, THIS forum is the electric bass subforum. It seems to me that the users here would benefit from having an electric bass version of the HPF3. I have said this before (and been kinda slammed for it). For ME, using it with an electric bass, it would be better with these differences:

- knobs on top
- stomp switch to enable/bypass, where bypass also turns the power off.
- input and output reversed (and, optionally, on the sides, instead of the back), to match other pedals
- power input on the back side
- power disconnect on the input jack, instead of the output jack

In other words, make it look and work like all the other pedals or stompboxes out there for electric bass. Including making it where I can leave it completely hooked up (possibly, on a pedal board) all the time and not have the battery die (by turning it off via the Bypass switch).

And did you ask @fdeck about providing these features?
I flagged him, so he should be advised the post exists.
These seem simple enough rehousing issues that would open up a market for a EBG version with minimal retooling.
 
Origin and other markets notwithstanding, THIS forum is the electric bass subforum. It seems to me that the users here would benefit from having an electric bass version of the HPF3. I have said this before (and been kinda slammed for it). For ME, using it with an electric bass, it would be better with these differences:

- knobs on top
- stomp switch to enable/bypass, where bypass also turns the power off.
- input and output reversed (and, optionally, on the sides, instead of the back), to match other pedals
- power input on the back side
- power disconnect on the input jack, instead of the output jack

In other words, make it look and work like all the other pedals or stompboxes out there for electric bass. Including making it where I can leave it completely hooked up (possibly, on a pedal board) all the time and not have the battery die (by turning it off via the Bypass switch).

I'm going to be building myself something close to this very soon, but with a foot switch for input switching for doubling with each input having it's own volume control. Just to nitpick your list a little, pedals very rarely turn off the power when bypassed. If you do that, you'll get all sorts of pops/noises/signal delay when reengaging the effect.
 
I'm going to be building myself something close to this very soon, but with a foot switch for input switching for doubling with each input having it's own volume control. Just to nitpick your list a little, pedals very rarely turn off the power when bypassed. If you do that, you'll get all sorts of pops/noises/signal delay when reengaging the effect.
I don't think fdeck has released the HPF3 schematic, he certainly hadn't last time I looked (unless I completely failed in finding it).

Edit - Re-read your post and saw you are not building a HPF3 so please ignore my ramblings.