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fdecks HPF, Part II

Origin and other markets notwithstanding, THIS forum is the electric bass subforum. It seems to me that the users here would benefit from having an electric bass version of the HPF3. I have said this before (and been kinda slammed for it). For ME, using it with an electric bass, it would be better with these differences:

- knobs on top
- stomp switch to enable/bypass, where bypass also turns the power off.
- input and output reversed (and, optionally, on the sides, instead of the back), to match other pedals
- power input on the back side
- power disconnect on the input jack, instead of the output jack

In other words, make it look and work like all the other pedals or stompboxes out there for electric bass. Including making it where I can leave it completely hooked up (possibly, on a pedal board) all the time and not have the battery die (by turning it off via the Bypass switch).
Thanks for the input!

As others have mentioned, the original idea emerged on the DB side, and I didn't even think about electric bass use. Some electric bassists convinced me otherwise, but I neglected to consider that there were already some established standards, and I was still thinking in terms of a "set and forget" type of box.

I'm tied up like a yard dog right now, with the "summer craziness" of family activities and vacations, but all of the features described are do-able. I'll start thinking about what the build would actually look like, to where I'm satisfied that it will be reliable. The only problem is cutting power when the device is bypassed, which will create a "pop" as mentioned above.
Right, not an HPF 3, but based on the HPF 2.
I'm happy to share the HPF 3 schematic, but just haven't put it up at my site. The HPF 2 is a lot easier to build by hand. Also, if you can't find a source for the JFETs, let me know.
 
I'm happy to share the HPF 3 schematic, but just haven't put it up at my site. The HPF 2 is a lot easier to build by hand. Also, if you can't find a source for the JFETs, let me know.

This is why I love this site so much! I talk about building an HPF based preamp and fdeck offers help. When I was designing a cab, Jeff Genzler helped with the bracing.

I have all the parts already, I just haven't fired up the soldering iron because it has been over 100 degrees here.
 
This is why I love this site so much! I talk about building an HPF based preamp and fdeck offers help. When I was designing a cab, Jeff Genzler helped with the bracing.

I have all the parts already, I just haven't fired up the soldering iron because it has been over 100 degrees here.
I feel the same. I either know (well, ok, can get in direct contact with) the actual guy who built or designed nearly all of the pedals I use regularly. And even RAG chimes in on the GK forums every once in a while for my amps. It's great knowing so many great bass people, and that they're all so willing to help! Love the TB community!
 
Thanks for the input!

As others have mentioned, the original idea emerged on the DB side, and I didn't even think about electric bass use. Some electric bassists convinced me otherwise, but I neglected to consider that there were already some established standards, and I was still thinking in terms of a "set and forget" type of box.

I'm tied up like a yard dog right now, with the "summer craziness" of family activities and vacations, but all of the features described are do-able. I'll start thinking about what the build would actually look like, to where I'm satisfied that it will be reliable. The only problem is cutting power when the device is bypassed, which will create a "pop" as mentioned above.

I'm happy to share the HPF 3 schematic, but just haven't put it up at my site. The HPF 2 is a lot easier to build by hand. Also, if you can't find a source for the JFETs, let me know.
I cannot think of a single guitar/bass pedal that cuts power when bypassed, and I have looked at a lot of schematics (on freestompboxes.com).

I wouldn't mind a peek at the schematic Francis (I'm a bit of a schematic junky).
 
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Did someone ask for a power/active light yet? That gives piece of mind that it is ready to go to work.
There is a battery test function; when the output plug is inserted, the LED flashes if the battery is good.
When using a 9VDC power source as is common with standard effect pedals, no light is necessary.
An always-on LED that's bright enough to be useful just adds to the otherwise tiny current draw.
 
There is a battery test function; when the output plug is inserted, the LED flashes if the battery is good.
When using a 9VDC power source as is common with standard effect pedals, no light is necessary.
An always-on LED that's bright enough to be useful just adds to the otherwise tiny current draw.

In a pedal board it is a pita to check. I don't use batteries
 
Thanks for the input!

As others have mentioned, the original idea emerged on the DB side, and I didn't even think about electric bass use. Some electric bassists convinced me otherwise, but I neglected to consider that there were already some established standards, and I was still thinking in terms of a "set and forget" type of box.

I'm tied up like a yard dog right now, with the "summer craziness" of family activities and vacations, but all of the features described are do-able. I'll start thinking about what the build would actually look like, to where I'm satisfied that it will be reliable. The only problem is cutting power when the device is bypassed, which will create a "pop" as mentioned above.

I'm happy to share the HPF 3 schematic, but just haven't put it up at my site. The HPF 2 is a lot easier to build by hand. Also, if you can't find a source for the JFETs, let me know.
Well as long as you're taking request :smug: .... here's a few thing that would make it more pedalboard friendly.
1. Reverse the in/out
2. Space the I/O further apart so it will accept pancake plugs. Right now I use a pancake in one side and a switchcraft 226 or Neutrik right angle on the other.
3. Top mount knobs. This ones not a major issue but it would be cool.

I don't really care about a bypass switch, I never take it out of my signal path.

Love my HPF-3.
 
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Well as long as you're taking request :smug: .... here's a few thing that would make it more pedalboard friendly.
1. Reverse the in/out
2. Space the I/O further apart so it will accept pancake plugs. Right now I use a pancake in one side and a switchcraft 226 or Neutrik right angle on the other.
3. Top mount knobs. This ones not a major issue but it would be cool.

I don't really care about a bypass switch, I never take it out of my signal path.

Love my HPF-3.
What about going with the jacks on the sides of the unit, rather than on the back? I am thinking about what a "stomp box style" version look like?
 
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What about going with the jacks on the sides of the unit, rather than on the back? I am thinking about what a "stomp box style" version look like?
I could live with side jacks but Aguilar, Way Huge and 3 Leaf are using back mound jacks and I like it. If the output jack on my HPF-3 was moved to maybe 5-10mm and the in/out were reversed I'd be happy.
image.jpg
 
I'm actually OK with the knobs staying/being put on the bottom end of the pedal. I always have the HPF directly in front of my noise gate, and since I only turn the gate off at the beginning of playing, its current form works for me. I have it mounted under my gate, with velcro to attach it to my board, and my gate attached to the HPF. I can still tweak the knobs if I needed to (I never do). Maybe the only thing that would make it easier on me is to have the in/out made to fit standard. But that's it. I don't need to turn it on/off, or want an LED, or anything like that. I like that it's a simple solution. Set it and forget it.
 
Let me chime in on what I'd like to see in a pedalboard-friendly, electric bass version Fdeck HPF Pre:
  • In and out jacks on top or side is okay with me, but plan space to accommodate right-angle plugs -- especially pancake plugs -- and consider the power jack and its plug's space needs with the in and out plugs. I prefer power and in and out jacks both to be either side or top mounted, one on the top and the other on the sides takes up a lot of space.
  • As has been said, orient the in and out jacks on the right and left respectively.
  • The volume control is unnecessary for me.
  • I see no utility in adding a foot switch.
  • I don't need a battery; although I know that some prefer a battery.
  • A continuous power-on light would be nice (but is a drain on a battery).
Let me also add that an on-amp and/or rack-shelf version would also interest me. I'd use this in my effects loop. This would fit on a universal 1-space shelf and have the filter control and its scale markings on the front of the unit with the jacks on the back. Again, no battery and no volume control needed.