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fEARful™ Part Eleven (11)

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#961
Chef said:
Howdy!
Thinking about working my way into Fearful land.
I'm pretty sure I know what I want to do, but want some feedback from you.

I think what I probably want is two 12/6/1; but dang if that's not a pricey rig with the new neo prices.

If I went 12/6/1+12sub, am I going to wish I hadn't for "lack of mids and highs?''

In my limited experience, I think I prefer the Alphalite6...
alan
Click to expand...

I have that setup using a 12.6 & sub rather then 12.6.1. I don't need more than the a-lite. I like it more or less 'old school' and I get that, but with a more true low end. I rarely need the sub...
 
#962
Actually, my 12. Sub is about to be joined by another .. For use in my PA...

Forgot to mention the 6db pad in my 2.6 as well. According to the 18sound fan club, I shouldn't be able to hear the mid's at all but for my taste there is plenty on tap. I do push the hi mids a bit in some rooms, with some basses but for the most part, my eq is flat. When I say a bit, it really is just a bit...
 
#963
1. Will a PINT of Duratex cover a 15/6?
2. Does Leland (Speakerhardware.com) sell expanded metal screens for the fEARfuls?
3. Any point in going with the 250v cap? It's only $7 more, but thought I'd ask.
4. Is one tube of PL enough? Assume I'm messy with glue.

I'm due in some money any day now and I'm finally taking the plunge. I'm buying the complete kit. So excited!

Thanks!
 
#964
mikeddd said:
1. Will a PINT of Duratex cover a 15/6?
2. Does Leland (Speakerhardware.com) sell expanded metal screens for the fEARfuls?
3. Any point in going with the 250v cap? It's only $7 more, but thought I'd ask.
4. Is one tube of PL enough? Assume I'm messy with glue.

I'm due in some money any day now and I'm finally taking the plunge. I'm buying the complete kit. So excited!

Thanks!
Click to expand...

1. Yes.
2. Don't know, most of what you see on completed fEARfuls are from Reliable Hardware.
3. Yes. Nominally better, probably not noticeable to most. I chose to use the upgraded caps after having a discussion with a guy from Montana.
4. Yes.
 
#966
Burning skies is right, but a pint will barely cover a 15/6. At least not as thick as I usually apply it. You'll have to go with a fairly smooth texture.

The bigger cap is primarily for durability. It's a shunt, has very minimal impact on sound. If you're putting big power into the cab use it. 1k or more.

I do make grilles, but I don't advertise it. Only with flatpacks and completed cabs, not by themselves.
 
#967
lelandcrooks said:
Burning skies is right, but a pint will barely cover a 15/6. At least not as thick as I usually apply it. You'll have to go with a fairly smooth texture.

The bigger cap is primarily for durability. It's a shunt, has very minimal impact on sound. If you're putting big power into the cab use it. 1k or more.

I do make grilles, but I don't advertise it. Only with flatpacks and completed cabs, not by themselves.
Click to expand...

I was going to order a flat pack, should I ask for a grille when I order, or do they normally come with the packs?
 
#968
Thanks very much, Leland. Gotta love customer service like this. :cool:

With the availability of a precision-cut, cut-kit (biscuited, no less!), building a fEARful from scratch is really not time effective any more...unless all you have is time on your hands, of course. I don't have that luxury. Should be able to get the whole thing assembled and painted in a week. The crossovers will take the most time. I guess I'll get the quart of Duratex. I don't want a paper-thin coat. I was actually planning on slathering on two thick coats. I want a bullet-proof finish.
 
#969
mikeddd said:
You are The Man, BurningSkies. :cool: Thank you! Would you happen to know what dimensions the grill should be for a standard 15/6? As I don't have one (yet) I've got no way to measure. :o
Click to expand...

I could tell you what it "should" be, but then you'd be disappointed when your cab is complete and your grill doesn't fit. ;) Build the cab, then measure it carefully. Then measure it again carefully. Then order it from Reliable and it should fit. This is one of those parts where any kind of unexpected variance in your build will render it useless, unless you're into grinding sharp metal edges by hand and trying to keep them square.
 
#970
Is there a "best handle" for a fEARful or is it just preference? I like the big, deep "D" handles, but they require a large cutout, which means more potential square area to leak air from.

I plan on siliconing around whatever handles I use anyway...so does the handle choice matter?

*edit*
thanks for the reply on the grill, BurningSkies. Leland offers one that I know will fit, so I'll probably just go with that.

LELAND: Is the grill you have 60% open space?
 
#971
mikeddd said:
Is there a "best handle" for a fEARful or is it just preference? I like the big, deep "D" handles, but they require a large cutout, which means more potential square area to leak air from.

I plan on siliconing around whatever handles I use anyway...so does the handle choice matter?
Click to expand...

In the end, the 'best handle is the one that you prefer. In terms of sealing, acoustics and vibration, the steel spring loaded handles are technically the best. The mount pretty cleanly, don't take up any internal volume and if you use a wood backer on the inside to seal them well, they won't act as a port or whistle.

If you look at this picture of my 15-Sub build, you can see I've cut pieces of wood for the inside facing of the handle cut outs (black taped into place while the glue dries). They're PL Premium'ed in place...and seal those cut outs quite well. They also provide more wood for the mounting screws to bite into so that I can use longer screws.

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#972
Thanks again, BurningSkies. I can see what you did. I'll do the same thing. I forgot about the internal volume that the big D handles take up. Don't want to lose that much airspace. I'll go w/the springy handles. I'm building mine bomb-proof. Thick coat of Duratex, corner protectors, etc.
 
#973
I ordered my grille from speakerhardware.com, with the dimensions:
19 3/8" x 25 3/4"
Those dimensions should leave an eighth inch of play on all sides if your box is built and assembled to spec. Somehow mine came out close enough that the grille fits perfectly. If you order from speakerhardware, just beware that the edges may be razor sharp, literally. Mine were and I got a nasty slice on my thumb despite being very careful.

Edit: Also, I painted my 15/6 with several coats of self-tinted Duratex. I started with about a quart and when finished, it looks like I hardly touched it. I'd be surprised if I used a half pint, and I wasn't especially sparing with it. I think I could cover at least another 3 boxes with what's left. Just make sure you use the little foam roller like Acrytech sells for use with Duratex and you should be good.
 
#976
wcriley said:
I used these for my 3012LF:
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I glued a small scrap of wood behind each one to give it a bit more bite. Might not have been necessary.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That's an interesting point too with regards to using a square-end bit - less likely to damage a driver cone from a slip of the hand.

Lonnybass
 
#977
Lonnybass said:
Thanks! That's an interesting point too with regards to using a square-end bit - less likely to damage a driver cone from a slip of the hand.

Lonnybass
Click to expand...

I flinched when I read that... having had that very misfortune. The victim of my stupidity was the virgin surround of a freshly re-coned EV 15. Even though it was more than two decades ago, it still stings.
 
#978
Any object smaller/pointier than your elbow will make a hole in either of the speakers in a fEARful. Yet another recommendation to save the drinking for AFTER it's completed AND the grill is on.

Don't get me wrong; I've punctured a few drivers in my time. :O Car audio subs, mostly. Ironically, installing the driver is the last step in the box construction (typically). Right when you're tired, pissed off, injured from the industrial accidents that occured whilst building the box and anxious as heck...you have to insert really sharp metal objects (screws) with a pointy metal object (screwdriver) around the perimeter of the most expensive part of the whole cab assembly (the driver). Ironic, no? :eyebrow:
 
#979
I'll soon be in this club! Just placed my order with Leland for a 15/6/1 deluxe kit and a grill and other assorted bits and pieces. Honestly, it's nice to be able to just click a few buttons for a complete kit vs. scanning list after list for bits and pieces and what did I forget where's the glue did I get damping material and I forgot the Duratex! You get the idea.

I was one of the first people to loudly cheer when Leland started offering flatpack kits. I just don't have the time, space or...time anymore to clear out the garage, setup the table saw and work table, go get the plywood, is it warped? Get the good plywood, lug it home...you know the story. I wanted to buy one back when they were first offered, but life happens and family comes before gear as you all know and understand. Finally able to buy one and I'm EXCITED and can't wait to hear and feel what all the commotion is about. :cool:
 
#980
Kit hasn't even shipped yet and I'm already going over assembly steps in my head (can you tell I'm excited?) and have a question about painting/Duratex.

How do you get the Duratex in the port/shelf area? Will the roller fit in there? I don't want the cab to look funny b/c the port's not painted. Do you Duratex the port shelf/bottom of cab before assembly?

Also, do you have to sand and/or prime the wood before applying Duratex? Black primer? Black spray paint?

Thanks much.
 
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